Rust stopping oil

[Griz44Mag]

I made this just now from some uPVC pipe. It is routed into the ply and super glued into place, then filled with 1/4" of liquid resin to seal it all up in the bottoms.

https://ibb.co/TBSfNfr
https://ibb.co/M1kcKYN

This will help with cleaning and better than the barrels falling about in a bucket!

LOL - I'll bet you have an engine hoist in your garage for pulling engines out of the engine compartment so you can change the oil....
It's gonna take longer to clean up your barrel cleaner than cleaning the barrel.
Take some video - this will be a fun one to watch....

 

[Sunbeam]

LOL - I'll bet you have an engine hoist in your garage for pulling engines out of the engine compartment so you can change the oil....
It's gonna take longer to clean up your barrel cleaner than cleaning the barrel.
Take some video - this will be a fun one to watch....

Don't be silly !
I pay a garage £100 per hour to pull my engine out to change the oil, don't want to get my engine hoist dirty !

So how exactly is it going to be harder to clean the barrels out in my tube, rather than a bucket? The Hawken barrel has already fallen out the bucket in the past and damaged it on the ground. the tube holds it well.

 

[Griz44Mag]

Don't be silly !
I pay a garage £100 per hour to pull my engine out to change the oil, don't want to get my engine hoist dirty !

So how exactly is it going to be harder to clean the barrels out in my tube, rather than a bucket? The Hawken barrel has already fallen out the bucket in the past and damaged it on the ground. the tube holds it well.

LOL,
Just curious - are you any kin to "Mayhem" - the famous insurance character?

 

[Sunbeam]

LOL,
Just curious - are you any kin to "Mayhem" - the famous insurance character?

I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about (must be a US thing?)

The tubes hold the barrels well and stop them from falling over and getting damaged like they do in a bucket. I have been having problems holding the barrels during cleaning and this will solve the problem.

Maybe you are just jealous you never thought of it?
I bet you'll be making one quietly in the corner of your shop today

 

[Carbon 6]

I hope the oil being talked about is not a petroleum product. Worst thing for a rifle barrel. There wasn't any petroleum back then and they did fine with natural products. I use that bore butter

Bore butter is a petroleum product. most products today are, unless you kill it or squeeze it yourself, it's probably been adulterated.

 

[user 43911]

As I noted before lanolin mix for me AFTER MAIN CLEANING, can be had from Dillon Precision they sell a case lube for resizing that I've used for years for reloading brass, black powder finish cleaning and patch lube, spray gun exterior and down the barrel, run a patch down bore to distribute evenly , I have left a gun for a year and the bore looked like a mirror, exterior will be tacky in an hour or so but wipes off easy, conditions the wood too. Isopropyl alcohol used is 90%.

 

[MrMackc]

I have wanted to know this for a while. How was coal oil extracted? some say that Kerosene, a petroleum product, has been around since the early 1800s. It is strange that petroleum products are the worse thing for a rifle barrel made of steel, I reckon the same thing would apply to an automobile engine since most of them are made of steel, and cast iron, also Tractors and diesel powered equipment of all kinds.

 

[Caterpillar Hunter]

I second what Kansas Kid suggested about not using an air compressor on anything you are trying to dry. Unless you have moisture filters inline you will be inadvertently spraying water onto surfaces.

 

[Griz44Mag]

I second what Kansas Kid suggested about not using an air compressor on anything you are trying to dry. Unless you have moisture filters inline you will be inadvertently spraying water onto surfaces.

I do have a filter dryer on my small compressor at the gun bench - but the air as it decompresses gets very cold - and that by itself can cause condensation on the parts being blown clean. Gotta use short bursts even with a dryer.

 

[Zonie]

I have wanted to know this for a while. How was coal oil extracted? some say that Kerosene, a petroleum product, has been around since the early 1800s. It is strange that petroleum products are the worse thing for a rifle barrel made of steel, I reckon the same thing would apply to an automobile engine since most of them are made of steel, and cast iron, also Tractors and diesel powered equipment of all kinds.

Coal oil is made just about like some of the higher grade of oil distillates. They heat the raw shale oil and one of the first things that boils off is "coal oil".

As far as muzzleloading guns are concerned, there is absolutely nothing wrong with using a petroleum oil in or on it to protect the steel parts. Motor oil and similar oils will do a good job of protecting them although some of the more refined rust protective oils do work better.

The thing with petroleum oil is, if it is left in the barrel when a black powder or synthetic black powder charge is fired, it will form a hard layer of fouling that is difficult to remove. Because of this, if a common petroleum oil has been used to protect the bore, it should be removed before the gun is loaded and fired.
To do this, use something that will change the oil into something that is easier to remove. Alcohol, soap, acetone, disk brake cleaner and a lot of other things will do this.

I ran some tests on how much hard fouling petroleum oils will make when black powder was burned on a surface coated with it.
It turned out, if the surface of the metal only had a trace of oil on it, like it would if several tight fitting dry cleaning patches were run down the bore, very little "hard fouling" was created. If there was a "wet" coating of oil, more hard fouling was made.

Knowing all of this, I sometimes get tired of seeing some posts that are bordering on paranoia when it comes to having any petroleum oil of any kind in the bore of a muzzleloader. As long as there is no wet coating of oil in the bore, there won't be much if any hard fouling after the gun is shot.

If you are interested in that post entitled, "OIL and FOULING", follow this link. I'm sorry to say Photobucket messed up the pictures but even without pictures I think my comments covers most of what I was doing and showing.

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/oil-and-fouling.33827/#post-381542

EDIT: I just went into that old thread and fixed the pictures Photobucket screwed up.

 

[Felix the Cat]

Are you using Pyrodex..?

If so.. that is your problem! Pyrodex contains potassium perchlorate, which leave Chlorine ions in the bore, which are the worst for promoting rust. It was the presence of chlorate in primers that caused them to be corrosive, and resulted in countless pitted barrels. Depending on the alloy, the chlorate seems to attack the grain boundaries and is able to penetrate the surface of the metal and is hard to remove.

The standard practice with military weapons shot with chlorate primers was to boil them out with washing soda (sodium carbonate) dry and oil them up, but then clean again a couple of days later when the chlorate had sweated out of the barrels..

Someone borrowed my cannon for saluting purposes, but did not tell me they had used Pyrodex. The barrel was clean when he returned it, but was red rusty a couple of days later when I checked it!

I don't have this problem with the Holy Black!

 

[Scota@4570]

The gun is only 2 months old, and going by the condition of the crown (I had to re-crown it as there was a HUGE burr ring on the inside!) there may well be machine marks in the bore.

We have this readily available in the UK
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autosol-Me...26&hvtargid=pla-563996090104&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

Would this be OK to polish the bore ?

If yes, I can make a new long jag that has a deep groove in it in the middle to hold the paste within the patch as the patch is being used.

Thanks.

Yes, try it. Use a bore guide to protect the muzzle. Work the heck out of it. IT should come up smooth and bright. If it is really rough and draggy I use fine steel wool and the polish at first. Windex or other watery soap will help make it go smoother. You will get lots of black on cleaning patches. That is normal, you are removing a tiny amount of steel. A highly polished bore will be less likely to rust. Good Luck

 

[Sunbeam]

I'm using Swiss 4f, 3f Krank medium and crank fine, all REAL GP!

 

[Dr5x]

No need to overthink this.....
It's just a light solvent to use to remove residual oil from the barrel and ignition area.
Windex, brake cleaner (although a bit harsh) or even auto window wash fluid will do as well.
Alcohol is suggested because it evaporates really fast and you don't have to wait so long for the barrel to dry before loading powder.

What method I found involves very little water..
At e day's end wipe with clean patches only lightly dampened with whatever you are using for Moose Milkmtill they come out clean then wipe thoroughly with WD40 till you are sure all interior surfaces are covered.
If you use water and have a patent breech a couple of dry follow up patches cannot get into the small diameter patent breech no matter how hard you try.
Store till nextt shooting day. Drop 30 grains of whatever powder you are using down the barrel and fire down range which will burn off the WD 40 and blow the ignition channel clear.
Very simple, quick and takes about 40 minutes at the range. Never pull rust or black residue.
Dutch

 

[Sunbeam]

So I have used my twin tube water holder this evening after a day at the range. It works perfectly and makes holding the barrel and changing water for cleaning very easy. My cleaning system this evening was :-

Warm water & soap patch.
change water.
Warm water & soap patch.
change water.
Scrub in warm water with bronze brush.
change water.
Warm water & soap patch,
Flush with hose.
Dry with absorbent paper towel on rod.
Flush with IPA.
Dry patch.
Rig grease soaked wool mop.

The barrel was squeaking clean before the grease patch and coming out perfectly clean with no trace of anything.

If this thorough clean is not enough, I'll swap the RIG for Hoppes 9 on a fresh wool mop.

 

[RowdyYates1217]

Anyone try Ballistol? I've watched guns of the west( YouTube) and he seated by it so I bought some and I love it. Mixes with water, when water evaps the Ballistol is left behind to lube and protect.

 

[Sunbeam]

Anyone try Ballistol? I've watched guns of the west( YouTube) and he seated by it so I bought some and I love it. Mixes with water, when water evaps the Ballistol is left behind to lube and protect.

Watched all that YouTubers videos, Ballistol isn't working for me, see my first thread on page 1.

 

[Crow-Feather]

Bore butter is a petroleum product. most products today are, unless you kill it or squeeze it yourself, it's probably been adulterated.

The below is from the T/C site in answer to a question about petroleum contents.

Our All Natural "Bore Butter" is absent of any petroleum based oil, and contains an ingredient which seasons the bore with repeated use, just as you would season a cast iron skillet. Tar, used to pave highways, is made by heating petroleum based oil. In other words, heat plus petroleum oil equals tar! That's what causes the heavy fouling when shooting a muzzleloader with conventional petroleum based lubes. The problem of heavy fouling was one not encountered in the old days, as the oils used then were all natural' whale oil, bear fat, deer tallow, etc. Petroleum based oils were not discovered until the mid-1800's, and during the Civil War, fouling did become a problem.

 

[Grenadier1758]

One issue I have with the T/C Bore Butter guidance is that a rifle barrel is not porous like a cast iron skillet. The "seasoning" imparted by Bore Butter is not any different than the dreaded tar resulting from use of a petroleum based oil. Not only is seasoning unnecessary, but it provides a coating to cove corrosion. Too much "seasoning" will fill the grooves and one may think their rifle is shot out.

Needless to say, but I have a very low concept of the practice of "seasoning" the bore of a muzzle loading rifle.

 

[Kansas Kid]

Seasoning aka gunking up your bore.