Ram Rod Issues

[rwsjr]

While out at the range yesterday, I cracked my ramrod on my GPR. I continued to use it, I just had to be more carefully, but it still needs to be replaced. I was rushing to reload before time ran out and they forced us to stop. I know I should have run a brush or rag down the first. Anyway, I was wondering if any of you folks had used the synthetic ramrods that TOTW sells? How does it look? Is is unbreakable as they claim?

My other plan was to replace it with another wood one and to buy a second "range" ramrod with a larger end or handle,making it easier to load.

 

[longcruise]

My other plan was to replace it with another wood one and to buy a second "range" ramrod with a larger end or handle,making it easier to load.

That's what I'd do.

 

[mazo kid]

I had a rifle that came with the synthetic RR and I really didn't care for it much...too limber. I would go with your thinking about replacing the RR with a wood one and then using a range rod for target shooting. My 2 cents worth.

 

[sniper68]

My other plan was to replace it with another wood one and to buy a second "range" ramrod with a larger end or handle,making it easier to load.

Please note, this is only my opinion. But its a stout one. DON'T waste your money and time on gimmicks. :nono: :barf: While nothing is fool proof. I would recommend a good range rod of your chosing, but most of all get a real ramrod(or two)!!! What I mean by that is a hand slpit and finished Hickory rod. With proper care and usage, it will last forever, or at least a long time. :grin: And I might add you will have the real McCoy without giving up any preformance. :thumbsup:
Again only my opinion, formed from over 50 years of learning the hard, but fun way... :redface:


I might add, for all those that have different oppions, TO EACH HIS OWN, at least till pucklosi tells ya otherwise.....

 

[Little Wattsy]

My other plan was to replace it with another wood one and to buy a second "range" ramrod with a larger end or handle,making it easier to load.

That's what I'd do.

DITTO!! :thumbsup:

 

[ohio ramrod]

After having a ramrod split and embed part in my wrist I replace all of the wooden rods on my guns with ones I make with the brown fiberglass from Dixie. They look o.k. are unbreakable, are stiff, and as tests have shown they do not wear the barrel. I only use wooden rods where required for competition and then use them carefully. Some people get by well with wooden rods but I have always been a klutz.

 

[rafterob]

I use a stainless steel range rod exclusively at the range and save my wood rods for woods walks and the like. I have had tips break off but no cracks in other parts of my wood rods. The synthetic rod that came with the rifle behaved the same-tip broke off. I had a T handle that would screw into one of the tips to extend the rod for cleaning-that was the culprit, threw it out.

 

[wvbuckbuster]

I use syn. rods from Cain's Outdoors former Mt. State Muzzleloading. They may not be period correct but they have never let me down. Just works for me.

 

[Bearbait2]

Mr. rwsjr,
We have been very pleased with the TOW black "unbreakable" synthetic rod. However, we have not tried their fiberglass rod and can not offer an opinion on them.
Best Wishes

 

[Muskeg Stomper]

The black synthetic rods are like trying to load with a wet noodle! I have one for my Pennsylvania rifle and while I haven't broken it, I don't like it. A good stainless range rod is highly recommended. I'm planning to go the fiberglass route for woods walks and rondy matches whenever I can get away with it. I too am one of those klutzes when under pressure and always find a way to draw my own blood whenever I break wooden rods. I'll use hickory only when the rules require it or in my smoothbore.

 

[catman]

Email me and I'll make you a hickory ramrod the length you need, mine will last as long as you need it. All I ask is you pay the shipping of $4.
All I need is a length & diameter.

Sound fair enough.

 

[2172]

I find that my target shooting rifles get to wear a wooden rod and are loaded by a steel range rod, but any gun I'm going to carry in the woods, or on a woods walk or a Seneca Run has a synthetic rod of some sort. Don't have much preference to which synthetic, use some that came with the gun, some I bought so long ago I don't recall what they were described as...Hank

 

[jbwilliams3]

That’s a swell offer from Catman.

As others have said, straight-grained hickory will last forever. I prefer to keep modern equipment for shooting modern guns.

There have also been several threads in the past that mentioned fiberglass as being a terrible substitute for a ramrod, unless you use a muzzle guide. Just a caution- I can’t attest to the truth of this as I just use hickory. To each his own- I just prefer natural materials.

 

[BrownBear]

While I prefer good, straight-grained hickory, I'll toss another alternative into the mix. My hunting pard recently got one of the new hollow brass rods from October Country. It was surprisingly light, and I'm downright impressed. I've got one of their solid brass rods, and it's just too darned heavy for my taste. I've also got a couple of varieties of the black plastic noodle rods, and agree with the complaints about too limp.

I'd go with the hickory for carry and brass, whether solid or hollow for the range.

 

[sniper68]

That’s a swell offer from Catman.

That's an under statement! :hatsoff:
Most Folks that I've watched pick out ram rods look for the straitest they can find and don't look for grain run out. Most good ram rods will not be perfectly straight as they follow the grain of the wood. If you bend one to the point of breaking(it will amaze you how much it will bend before failure), you will find that it will not explod or shatter with sharp ends, if there is any grain run out, it for sure will at the point of run out break and have a shart point. OUCH. Just like picking out any wood, you have to know what you are looking for and how to identify it..... Cant just grab a round, straight stick and expect it will work properly. :nono:

 

[Dphar]

A *straight grained* piece of hickory is very difficult to break and will last for 30-40 years. But few you buy are straight grained.
So several must be bought 5-7 and the good blank(s) used to make rods. The rest are either pistol rods from the straight grained sections or junk.

Dan

 

[rwsjr]

Catman, I can't accept your generous offer. I read the early posts last night and I ran off and ordered a couple hickory rods....but Thanks!

Is there a secret to getting the tips off? The tips on my sons ramrod (Cabelas Hawken) just unscrew, these seem to be real tight.

Do you folks have any suggestions on range rod? A favorite make? Is stainless steel okay or should I use something else?

 

[paulvallandigham]

I am not sure what you are referring to as a "tip". If its the jag, that screws into a ferrule glued, and/or pinned to the rod, then it should screw out. Lefty-Loosey; Righty-Tighty.

The ferrule is often glued. That is not enough to hold it on the wood. It has to be cross-pinned also.

As to the jags, DON'T use those jags that have the threaded portion cut out of brass. They will just fail and the jag will break off in your barrel. Throw those brass threaded jags away. Instead, buy a new cleaning jag that has a steel threaded shank in the back of it. The jag will be of brass, of course, but the steel threaded shank will not break off from use.

You want a "Stepped " jag, where the first ring is approx. .030" smaller than the bore diameter of your rifle, then the second ring is another .010" smaller than that first ring, and the third ring is .010" smaller than the second.

This allows your cloth cleaning patches to ride OVER the lands, so it does not push the residue and crud down into the back of your barrel. Instead, the stepped jag allows the cleaning patch to travel all the way to the back or bottom of the barrel, and then the patch blouses out and is caught by the back cut edges of those rings, and pulled out of the barrel. In blousing, the fabric not only closely wipes the lands( bore) but gets down into the grooves of the rifle to remove the crud there.

If you allow crud to build in the corners of your rifling by NOT cleaning after every shot, then consider using a Bore Brush to push a cleaning patch down the bore and pull the crud out. The bristles on the bore brush will push through the cotton fabric of your cleaning patch, and scrub out the corners of the rifling, loosening the crud so it can be pulled out by the patch.

Track of the Wolf sells new ferrules, and all the proper jags for your gun. Don't hesitate to buy a spare cleaning jag, to have on hand.

 

[rwsjr]

By Tips I meant the brass ends on the rod. One end has a threaded hole in it and the other has the concave end that prevents damage to the ball. If they are pinned, I can't see it.

 

[paulvallandigham]

YOu are describing the "ferrules". They are normally epoxied, but not pinned to commercial rods. YOu can cut off the end of the rod and drill out the wood that is glued inside, or just buy new ferrules at Track, or other suppliers.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(0...tableList.aspx?catID=14&subID=163&styleID=741

For the cleaning jag, see
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(0...tableList.aspx?catID=14&subID=163&styleID=741

compare the cleaning jag, to a loading jag for a Brown Bess, or for a shotgun, with their belled shapes. A loading jag is NOT a substitute for a cleaning jag. :thumbsup: