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Raising the point of impact?

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YOu can raise the height of the comb of the stock, since your eye is the " rear sight " on a smoothbore, to see more barrel, and raise point of impact.
this is what is done with shotguns to raise the center of the pattern when shooting shot loads.

First use tape( moleskin, or other glue on pads) to increase the height to see how much of an increase in comb height you will need.

Then either add wood( a flat is cut out of the comb, and a new piece of wood is glued in place, and then filed down to the profile that fits your face) , or have a new stock made with the new dimensions for the gun.
 
Mike Brooks said:
I always bend the barrel to change point of impact. Pretty easy to do.
Mike:

I was considering that. Any tips on 'how to' do it? I do have access to a long workbench, wood top but with a metal rail, so I can place dial indicators on each end and in the middle.

Any advice on 'where' to start the bend, say 1/2 way up the barrel or from 1/3rd of way up? I don't think I want to try the PC method of using a forked tree :rotf: ...

Thanks in advance :thumbsup: ! And I GREATLY enjoy your posts, suggestions, critiques (makes me learn), photos and tips. You and so many others here are a great resource to us newbies and really make these MZL forums shine.
 
I don't know all the ways to adjust the barrel to improve the point of impact on a smoothie. I will suggest that whatever method you use you go at it gradually with the barrel removed and then replaced after each adjustment. This is labor intensive as it takes a while to do but most of us are in this for the grins and enjoy every thing we learn. The only way I have done this is the pc way you mentioned but I have heard of a mandrel being used inserted from the muzzel as the barrel was held in a vice. Perhaps Mike Brooks or someone else has experience doing it this way. Whatever; go slow and any errors will be away from trouble.
as usual,
Spot
 
Any advice on 'where' to start the bend, say 1/2 way up the barrel or from 1/3rd of way up? I don't think I want to try the PC method of using a forked tree ...
I bend somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 way from the muzzle.The only way I've ever done it was with a fork in a tree. Stick it in till it looks about right and pull or push it the way it needs to go. You'll feel it when it bends. Put it pback in the stock and see wher it shoots. It ain't rocket science. I find a 4' straight edge to be a helpfull guid in the process.
I have a friend who bends them by whacking them against his favorite telophone pole in his alley. There's more than one way to get this done I suppose.... :winking:
 
Mowery
Maybe this will help you.

barrel_reg.gif


Regards, Dave
 
I have bent a couple of barrels using a similar method shown by dvlmstr except I used a 2x4 instesd of a rail, and placed the clamp closer to the muzzle. Before I started I laid the barrel on a piece of plate glass and measured the existing elevation of the barrel off the glass with various size drill bits as guages at various locations along the barrel. Since barrels have a lot of spring this is a way to measure progress after each bend and shoot.
I used this mainly to correct for windage. Although I have bent a bbl. for elevation, mirage from heat waves can pose a problem if your desired line of sighr is close to the barrel surface. In this cold weather just take your gun outside and sight down the barrel at your desired sight picture to see if mirage is an issue.
 
Like Mike Brooks says, bend the barrel. I have bent several barrels by finding a handy forked tree and cranking the barrel a little at a time. Works on rifle guns too.

The problem with smoothbores and roundball is that the breech is so much thicker than the muzzle that you are actually sighting way down hill. The barrel bending is the only easy way that I know to fix this problem.

Many Klatch
 
squirejohn is right. What is shown as a beam in the drawing I posted is my work bench top when I bend a barrel.

Regards, Dave
 
I believe it was Paul that told us on an earlier post that some of the old gunsmiths used to file the muzzle to regulate the the shot or roundball to the point of impact. Now I tried this and have changed from shooting 6 inches low to 2 inches low at 25yrds. Ya, there is a taper to the muzzle. I took about 1/16" to about 1/8" off the bottom of the muzzle. I need to check the shot pattern now. The last time I did this the shot pattern center followed the same as the roundball.
 
If no rear sight, put front sight on target and try looking over the barrel, not down it. If you find the sweet spot, just repeat same hold each time.
 
I've bent a few barrels using a system similar to DVLMSTR's. An easy way to tell how far I've bent it is to use drill bits in 1/64" graduations under it. First slide a bit under the barrel before bending it to get your beginning measurement. You might have to place a block under there first to get you up near the barrel. Then as I bend it I can use the next size bits to track my progress. For instance, if there is 1/4" space in the beginning I will slide a 1/8" bit in there and bend until the barrel touches it. It will spring back to about 3/16". Take it out, mount it in the gun and shoot it. You may have to repeat the process.

LaffinDog
 
I've had to bend one barrel before (I used a 4x4, two wood blocks, and a pipe clamp). Scary thing to do at first, but once you start, it's no big deal. Barrels have a LOT of spring in them, and you will bend that sucker like a banana before it will take any "set". Don't be afraid to crank the manure out of it...just do it carefully.
 
That's why I do it with a tree crotch, I can feel it "give". They bend a LONG ways before they give and take a set.
 
dvlmstr said:
Mowery
Maybe this will help you.

barrel_reg.gif


Regards, Dave[/quote)

This is how I bent my barrel and it worked great, but I changed my mind, bent it back straight got it juged choked and put a rear sight on it, I don't plan on competing with it and what do you know I now have a smoothbore that shoots straight and center.
 

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