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Pure lead neeed in ML ?
- Thread starter sparky911
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The use of only pure lead is one of the many myths of muzzleloading - hardened projectiles have been used by muzzleloaders since at least the early 1800's.
I and many other experienced muzzleloaders (FWIW - I've been shooting and hunting witH them since 1961) have used beaucoup wheelweights for years and they work just fine and in most cases even better since you will get better penetration especially on big game such as elk.
The Bevel brothers did an article on the use of WW metal in Muzzleblasts sometime back - main thing is the projectile will weigh slightly less and will be slightly larger in diameter so one MAY need to use a thinner patch....
A caveat - lead based wheelweights are becoming a thing of the past so get them while you can - then if you like them make your own alloy or buy it - www.Rotometals.com, one of Claude's advertisers sells the pre-mix or the stuff to brew your own
I and many other experienced muzzleloaders (FWIW - I've been shooting and hunting witH them since 1961) have used beaucoup wheelweights for years and they work just fine and in most cases even better since you will get better penetration especially on big game such as elk.
The Bevel brothers did an article on the use of WW metal in Muzzleblasts sometime back - main thing is the projectile will weigh slightly less and will be slightly larger in diameter so one MAY need to use a thinner patch....
A caveat - lead based wheelweights are becoming a thing of the past so get them while you can - then if you like them make your own alloy or buy it - www.Rotometals.com, one of Claude's advertisers sells the pre-mix or the stuff to brew your own
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I was under the impression that, in terms of just having a round to shoot (not really worried about accuracy or maximum efficiency), that pretty much any metal that could be melted and poured into a mold could be flung down range.
Blizzard of '93
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useing a patched ball yes. any of the modern slugs made from Lee molds require as pure lead as possible. revolver slugs also. just a minute amount of tin added will help casting melt flow and won't harden the slug. it's antimony that's added as a 'hardener' to lead (wheel weights and linotype). but IMO pure lead balls shoot tighter groups than wheel weight balls and likely perform better on thin skinned game. most of my deer kill shots have been pass-throughs useing lead PRB's.
lately have been experimenting with REAL slugs in my .50 w/good results in anticipation of feral/wild hog hunting. I figure the extra 'punch' of the heavy slug is needed.
lately have been experimenting with REAL slugs in my .50 w/good results in anticipation of feral/wild hog hunting. I figure the extra 'punch' of the heavy slug is needed.
Murf, you are correct in that just about anything that can be melted and moulded can be fired; however, ease of loading and consistancy dictate that (at least for me) I use as pure lead as possible. I know some use wheel weights but I have never found them to be as accurate and it is a pain juggling patch sizes to accomodate the differing sizes that are thrown from the mould. For revolvers pure lead should also be used IMO.
Tumblernotch
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Also, you need pure lead for expanding ball, i.e. Minies. Too hard and they won't expand into the rifling. And believe it or not, even round balls upset some, though not as radically as a Minie.
jtmattison
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Sure you can use different lead alloys in muzzleloaders. However, it's hard to argue against the fact that pure (or close to it) lead gives the best results in all muzzleloading applications.
HD
HD
Tumblernotch
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I see no problem at all using alloyed lead in SB's. The ball is just a few grains lighter and expansion in my opinion ain't that critical. I've used hard lead with good results even in a rifle. I agree with an earlier post that expansion when hunting big game would be better with soft lead. Hard lead would probably improve penetration if that's what is wanted. Of course the softest lead you can get is required for a proper Minie.
I scraped up over 30 lbs of mixed soft, chilled and magnum shot from a trap range and have used it for smoothbore balls with great results (and have a supply for use in breechloaders should I ever buy one :wink: ).
I also have to agree with Huntin Dawg about using the purest lead possible in muzzleloaders. It's still the best overall. But sometimes we have to use whatever we can get.
I scraped up over 30 lbs of mixed soft, chilled and magnum shot from a trap range and have used it for smoothbore balls with great results (and have a supply for use in breechloaders should I ever buy one :wink: ).
I also have to agree with Huntin Dawg about using the purest lead possible in muzzleloaders. It's still the best overall. But sometimes we have to use whatever we can get.
I prefer pure lead for PRB's but if I can't get it for some reason or another, I'll cast whatever alloy I have on hand and go with it.
Accuracy will suffer but for the kind of shooting I do, the difference is hardly noticeable. If ultimate accuracy is what I'm after, I'll be shooting a swaged ball, anyway!
Accuracy will suffer but for the kind of shooting I do, the difference is hardly noticeable. If ultimate accuracy is what I'm after, I'll be shooting a swaged ball, anyway!
I use the WW or range lead for .62 balls. I shoot this in matches and it does shoot very well. A few years ago I tested many loads of soft and hard lead. The results im my smooth guns were that the hard balls shot better. I tend to shoot a little better with "dead Lead" in my rifles. :hmm:
