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Priming horns or not

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Since I don't anticipate attacks from enemy tribes I carry and use a primer filled with Goex 4F which (to me) seems faster than 3F. I don't do combat with flintlocks; I only hunt and shoot at the range. A muzzleloader makes hunting a one shot deal, anyway. I either carry a main charge horn or pre-measured cartridges. For prime I carry a small primer regardless.
PICT0632.jpg
 
Was that 7Fg sporting powder or 7FA blasting powder (would be notably coarser, as well as only minimally tumbled)?

Regards,
Joel
 
I agree.

As mentioned, some of the small horns may have been for pistols but pistols were rare when compared to rifles. Smaller old horns found today may be what's referred to as a "day horn". It was meant for just a day or two in the field.

For a long hunt or millitary campain a full size horn was in order.

I have a rifle, that when new refused to fire relialbly with 4ffffg. She did a little better with 3fffg. 2ffg was and is her favorite for prime and load. She's a .45.
A lot depends on the gun and what it likes.

Occasionally you may indeed find references for "priming horns"`. Keep in mind that cannoneers used full sized horns to prime cannon.
The spring loaded Rev War spout offered by TOTW is for such a " priming horn".
 
I load from the pouch. I don't like to have to mess with lots of fiddly bits when loading. I have my load set up so that I don't need a short starter or a priming horn. I find that either the 2F or 3F that I am using for a main charge will work just fine as a priming powder.

Many Klatch
 
Im going to assume that this is measured in thousandths of a second?

That being said im not seeing why you would wish to carry an extra piece of equipement and buy and extra size powder for a result that is almost if not completely unnoticeable.

Ive been shooting BP for almost 20yrs. ive shot cap and flint. musket, rifle, pistol, fowler. ive tried all different sizes of powder from all different makers from elephant to goex... Goex 3F is just about the best all around...
 
longhunter76 said:
Im going to assume that this is measured in thousandths of a second?

That being said im not seeing why you would wish to carry an extra piece of equipement and buy and extra size powder for a result that is almost if not completely unnoticeable.

...

I try to time to the nearest 10 thousandths of a second.

I have two main reasons for carrying a priming horn. If I prime from the main horn, I have to handle the main horn and stopper twice. With nerve damage in my hand, this is a royal pain. Instead I carry a flat horn with a push valve in my hip pocket. This is far easier to use than handling the main horn and stopper twice. (This is a matter of efficiency and using gross motor skills when there are no fine motor skills.) I'd use a priming horn even if I used 3fg in it just for the convience.

The second reason for using a priming horn is to take care of dry-balled shooters. In the past few years, I have helped 4 different shooters on woods walks who dry-balled their guns. Here the small priming horn with Swiss Null B was just the ticket for working prime behind the ball.

It doesn't bother me that other shooters prime from their main horn. It's possible that if you try a priming horn instead of having to handle the main horn and stopper twice, you might like it. However, I do what works with my bad hand, and encourage you to use what works best for you.

BTW, I meant to stay out of the discussion about whether to carry a priming horn or not. I just meant to give data on the various ignition speeds.

Regards,
Pletch
 
This subject/debate/argument never seems to go away. I got my first computer about 1988, and swear, the first internet hit I saw was this primer/4Fg thing.
Anyhow, I'm wondering if any of the hc/pc sticklers here with big libraries could research when primer horns and fine grade powders first were used by riflemen. Methinks the reason for the arguments is there isn't much written at all. Ubiquotous items tend to get overlooked like woodwork.
FWIW, I use a primer horn with a brass spring plunger because it deposits primer where I want it without spillage. And, I believe 4Fg is faster than 3Fg in ignition.
On top of that, I have a big supply of FFFFg and need to use it up before I die.
 
Regarding reasons for using a priming horn, I earlier gave a personal reason dealing with a health issue. As far as ignition speeds go, the chart pretty much spells that out. These trials were reported in MuzzleBlasts in 2005. Basically each test included 20 trials and the averages calculated. The complete article can be read at the following link:


Link

Regards,
Pletch
 
It looks like I'm the only one that uses what I use.I load and prime from the same horn, but I have a double plug.A normal size one with a priming tube on top of it and a second cap on said tube(about 3/32 diameter).
Never seen it or heard of before , but it works great for me.
 
Pletch said:
If I prime from the main horn, I have to handle the main horn and stopper twice.
Instead I carry a flat horn with a push valve in my hip pocket. This is far easier to use than handling the main horn and stopper twice.
That's 1 of several reasons I use little shirt pocket pan primers...the pan is just a few inches below the shirt pocket, fingers slip it out of the pocket, press the plunger in the pan, drop it back in the pocket.
Particularly when refreshing the prime while deer hunting it only takes seconds, with very, very little movement for an approaching deer to pickup...and not being a purist, I have no problem using them at all.

Plus, the way I figure, it would be a little odd for me to think I should hold out to only use a main horn for everything, while said horn was riding against my Mossy-Oak Camo Gore-tex rain suit...LOL
 
For what it's worth, a friend of mine has a theory that the "priming" horns were actually just "day" horns used while out hunting. Why bring your large horn with a lot of powder and carry the extra weight when you're going out for meat? While this may not be the case, it does make sense if you think about it.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...Be well.

snapper
 
Snapper said:
For what it's worth, a friend of mine has a theory that the "priming" horns were actually just "day" horns used while out hunting. Why bring your large horn with a lot of powder and carry the extra weight when you're going out for meat? While this may not be the case, it does make sense if you think about it.

That's all for now. Take care and until next time...Be well.

snapper

seems like a reasonable guess
When I shoot I only take the amount of powder I am going to use. (premeasured powder charges in film canisters) I certainly do not need to carry more stuff than I already have.
 
When I bought my first flintlock I also bought a can of 4F and one of those little brass plunger primer thingys. Just as I was finally starting to make a dent in the 4F, I aquired another pound in a trade deal I made. Shooting from the bench with my local shooting club I still use the brass primer thing with the 4F because I gotta use up the 4F somehow... Occasionally I even take it on a woodswalk.
I have never used a small priming horn. I made one once but ended up filling it with 3F and stashing it in my "woods pack" along with a few balls, where it still resides, for a few shots "just in case". You never know when something could happen to your main horn.

Most woodswalks, most from-the-bag shoots, and always when I'm hunting I prime from my main horn. 3F for the rifles, 2F for the Bess.
Priming from the main horn keeps things simple. The less junk I'm hauling around in my shooting bag the better.
 
I've primed with 4F and 3F and have not noticed that much of a differance. My concern is if by accident a hot ember is still in the pan and you miss it I'd rather have a small expolsion from a small horn than a big expolsion from a large horn.

I say use 4F or 3F for priming is fine just put it in a small horn for safety sake. Even though a priming horn might not be H.C., but thier still cool.
 
longhunter76 said:
Im going to assume that this is measured in thousandths of a second?

That being said im not seeing why you would wish to carry an extra piece of equipement and buy and extra size powder for a result that is almost if not completely unnoticeable.

Ive been shooting BP for almost 20yrs. ive shot cap and flint. musket, rifle, pistol, fowler. ive tried all different sizes of powder from all different makers from elephant to goex... Goex 3F is just about the best all around...

Considering the modern competition shooters worry about the difference in lock time of modern bolt guns, the production versions vary from 1.6 ms to 3.6 ms, since especially in offhand shooting the faster lock times WILL effect scores. People report that speed locking, cutting lock time from 3 to 1.5 ms, increases scores significantly.
How someone shooting a FL would not consider a reduction in lock time to be relevant is beyond me.

Null B or FFFF have several advantages over FFF or FF.

Just because you cannot tell the difference by ear is no indication that that the shooting is not being effected.

Dan
 
I use a small priming flask or horn when I playing or hunting .It's less messy for me and seems a fast lock time . When I'm doing somthing with a historical bent , I prime from the hunting horn or cartridge . I think priming horns were in use but that's an opinion and not a strong enough one to stand up on .
 
I use Null-b just because and I like it alot; I use a small spring loaded primer horn with built in pick which I keep in my right jacket pocket. I have a pre-load tube in that pocket as well. I never rush to re-load anyway; it's one good shot or I don't take it.
 
It looks like I'm the only one that uses what I use.I load and prime from the same horn, but I have a double plug.A normal size one with a priming tube on top of it and a second cap on said tube(about 3/32 diameter).
Never seen it or heard of before , but it works great for me.

No, you are not alone. I often prime with my main powder just as I do when reenacting with cartridges.

However, when I want best performance in a match, I use 4f. Ever little edge helps.

I also carry a priming horn at all times to help with dry ball situations.

As said before there is an advantage to having the prime right where you want it.

CS
 
Over here only premeasured charges are allowed. I like and use null-b. Because here shooting matches are timed, I also use speedloader halves in which I load an OPW and a nicely centered patched ball. I used a brass plunger type primer tubewith 1 grain spout. I also switched that into a small eyedrop bottle with a very fine spout that allows me to free-flow some null-b powder into the pan. All these measures give me the necessary time and relaxed state of mind to shoot my matches fully focused on result only. These tiny little things help because they help you to concentrate... Just my thoughts - you might not like my method
 
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