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Pedersoli Indian Trade Musket Kit

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Kamu said:
I can really care less about the side plate... It looks fine to me. What I care about is that when I pull the trigger it shoots.. If I go with the pedersoli it will be the only gun I hunt with this year.. it will be myone trick pony... small game, pigs, fowl, deer are on the menu!!!!!!!!!!!
I may already said this but when I got mine it was very slow to ignite the pan and the main charge.
I opened the flash hole. Hardened the frizzen and fitted a lighter frizzen spring.
Now that gun is one of my most reliable and fast shooters.
It shoots a ball real good and I would not hesitate on a deer up to 50yds. Small game with shot is mine at thirty yards. Want pictures?

B.
 
Hi Britsmoothy,

Can you elaborate please sir? I have been thinking about buying a Pedersoli to add to my stable of 20 ga's but am curious to your modifications?

"I opened the flash hole. Hardened the frizzen and fitted a lighter frizzen spring."
 
The stock timber is kiln dried and may chip if not handled carefully.

A long documentary video was posted some time back about the Pedersoli process for making a rifle. The wood can take years before it is assembled into a gun. I was impressed with the care involved and how much hand workmanship each piece received. Maybe someone can locate that film, it was very interesting.
 
I robbed an old wall hangers main spring. Welded an eye on it for the fixing screw.
I have a replacement original that come the time it may be needed I will grind it's width down to lighten it some.
The frizzen was very soft so I hardened it.
The vent I opened to .080". I also polished the pan surface.
Nothing too difficult but what an improvement from out the box!

B.
 
Thanks Britsmoothy :grin:

I see that Loyalist Arms sells something called an Early English Trade Gun Musket. Does anyone have any opinions on theirs? Never done any business with them but it does look interesting?
 
I have one, and I have the Pedersoli too.

The Loyalist Arms gun has an inletted side plate. The butt plate doesn't use nails as it should, but judging from the wood they use they'd risk splitting it, so screws are OK with me. The barrel and lock are armory bright. The ramrod thimbles are very robust, when they should be thin brass. The wood itself is heavier, so instead of 7 ¹/3 lbs. of the Pedersoli, it's around 10 lbs. The lock sparks very well. It kills squirrels well....

I looked at period and repro tradeguns on the internet, and then I had oil based paint made up and painted my stock red (sorry I have serious issues with loading photos)

The Pedersoli that I own had a side plate merely screwed to the side, showing the lock screw and a single retaining screw and the retaining screw hole was very weak..., the side plate was wrong so I replaced it with a fowler side plate. The lock is held with one screw, and a second wood screw is used ifo the frizzen spring. The wood over time may become worn from removing that screw to clean the lock. The trigger guard is steel, and Northwest Trade Gun-esque in shape...I replaced it with a brass guard. The guard is held only by wood screws and is a bit weak compared to pinning into place. The ramrod thimbles are close to correct but aren't, and on my factory gun were improperly pinned the stock, so broke out (so much for Pedersoli quality). The barrel came brown and the lock with slight case hardening. I replaced the BS factory ramrod. It's now more of a short fowler or fusil than a "trade gun". It is noticeably lighter than its India cousin, and does shoot well, again against squirrels.

I only like the Pedersoli for its lighter weight. I bought it used and paid what I paid for the India origin trade gun from Loyalist Arms

LD
 
Britsmoothy, thanks for all you help with my questions Sir. I appreciate it.

As to the Loyalist Arms Trade gun how safe do you feel with it? How thick is the barrel?
You mention India made? Has it been proofed yet and if so what was the proof load?
What is your standard load? I am looking for something that will handle 90 gr's and 1 to 1 1/8 oz of Bismuth.
Is the lock reliable?
Is the touch hole reliable? Does it have a liner?

I prefer heavier guns when I hunt so the light Pedersoli does not appeal to me as much as the Loyalist Arms Trade gun.

thanks for the help. :grin:
 
Hey loyalist Dave in regards to your loyalist arms trade gun. When you got it was the frizzen polished or left rough? How was the lock and would it shoot round balls ok? Thank you for your input.
 
As to the Loyalist Arms Trade gun how safe do you feel with it? How thick is the barrel?
You mention India made? Has it been proofed yet and if so what was the proof load?
What is your standard load? I am looking for something that will handle 90 gr's and 1 to 1 1/8 oz of Bismuth.
Is the lock reliable?
Is the touch hole reliable? Does it have a liner?

IF I didn't feel safe with it, I wouldn't shoot it. :wink: I use an ounce of shot, and 80 grains of 2Fg, which is more weight than a round ball, and more friction too. :grin: The thickness of the barrel is more than a Pedersoli, but thickness is a poor litmus test (imho). I say that because Miroku Brown Bess barrels are thinner than Pedersoli, are not proofed, and are very safe when properly maintained.

There are a LOT of misconceptions about black powder proofing. No, the India barrels are not proofed, nor are the Japanese ones on my muskets, nor are American made barrels for black powder. Now guys like Britsmoothie and other forum users in the UK or in Germany must have their barrels proofed in those countries by law, and those that have India barrels found they passed the proofing test. So I'm not that worried.

Misconception 1: You cannot proof your barrel at home. You can test it in a crude way, but you cannot proof it.

To proof a barrel it must be submitted to an actual proofing house. Understand that each and every proofing house around the world that conforms to the international treaty uses proofing standards that are universal only for smokeless powder, cartridge firearms. There is no universal standard for black powder proofing. Anybody who tells you they, themselves, proofed a black powder barrel is saying they test fired it..., for whatever that's worth. :wink:

The true proof houses when proofing for black powder muzzle loaders, are free to come up with whatever standard they choose before they stamp their approval. So the Italian proof on a Pedersoli barrel uses a 140% max load and a single projectile, while the Birmingham UK house and the German Proofing Houses use a 260% load and a double projectile. So you could have a barrel that passed the Italian test and was stamped, but it could fail the British test.

Misconceltion 2: Proofing a black powder barrel means the barrel is safe to fire.

Proofing is only "good" on the day the barrel left the factory. Incorrect cleaning of a black powder barrel over time can seriously corrode the interior while leaving the exterior in visually good condition. So although proofed, overtime that barrel may have gone bad. I have, when acting as an event safety officer, pulled two muskets as unsafe due to the corrosion I saw inside the bore..., and they both looked fine on the outside. :nono:
(I am the only person I have known in 25 years of reenactment that inspected the interior of the musket barrels during a safety inspection :shake: )

Further, some of the proofing houses do things different. For example, some of the Spanish proofed barrels are batch-proofed at 200% max pressure. Meaning they randomly took say, 3 barrels out of ten and tested them and when those 3 passed, they stamped all ten as "good"..., but what about the other seven? :shocked2: Also it was recently reported that CVA and Traditions had Spanish proofing done on their barrels, and the barrels were marked with the pressure used..., 700kpcm2...which is about 7500 psi in more common terms. That wasn't the "standard" used by the house..., that was the lowest level the Spanish house would use and still certify the barrels as proofed....at the manufacturer's request :shocked2: So it's NOT a universal standard.

My India locks all spark well and all of the touch holes on my Loyalist Arms tradegun and muskets are not lined.

I have no idea how safe shooting your load will be in an India origin barrel from Loyalist Arms. However, according to Pedersoli Load Data published in February 27th, 2016..., for the Indian Trade Musket, the MAX load for shot is 90 grains of 2Fg and 1 ounce of powder. You are proposing shooting beyond the Pedersoli max even if you used a Pedersoli tradegun. I have shot a max of 80 grains of 2Fg and 1.25 ounces of shot from both of my tradeguns, India origin and Pedersoli, and I'm still here. I used newsprint for wadding and premeasure shot charges also in newsprint. I have no idea (yet) what results I would get when using a proper, fiber wad (more friction = more pressure). I use 70 grains of 2Fg and 1 ounce of #7 for birds in my choked, Pedersoli SxS using the newsprint that I mentioned. Kills pheasants and squirrel quite well.

I hope this answers some questions.

LD
 
Thank you for taking the time to write that up Dave. Yes, you answered my questions and I appreciate it. Nice to have someone share their experience!
:hatsoff:
 
Just some personal experience. I was at an event in the 80s when when a hold my beer and watch this moment came by.several guys pulled out a blunderbuss with a brass barrel. They started loading and firing with god awful charges. 300 grains under almost 3 oz of .350 round ball wadded with old cotton shirts. I grabbed my first aid kit and sat where I could watch but not catch a piece of brass.
They shot several dozen rounds without incident.
Few of our guns would ever need charges over 150 grains. Most of us get good results about half that. I truely doubt that any barrel loaded properly with reasonable charges are unsafe. Ml are not magnums and should not be treated like them. IMHO
 
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