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rem700

32 Cal.
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
27
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I am starting my quest for a squirrel gun and have no experience other then just having purchased a GPR kit.
The only rifle I have found so far is a Tennesse Valley Muzzleloading, Tennesse Poor Boy rifle. Now the decision makeing process begin As a Poor boy rifle, it is available with barrels from .32 to .62 calibers and 13/16" to 1" in width. Of course, some caliber / barrel combinations are not available and we suggest that you contact us about availability before ordering. Our Poor-boy Rifle is built using Green Mountain or TVM barrels Siler locks and Davis or L&R double set triggers. Standard barrel lengths are 36" to 42" s with questions.
Anybody have experience with these guns?
Barrel length 36" or 42" 13/16 or 1 inch
Caliber 36ca or 40ca
Finished in the white or as a kit, How much more difficult in the kit would this be then the GPR?
What else is available for under a grand I dont think I really think I would interested in short barrel lengths. Thanks for reading.
 
I don't have any experience with TVM kits, but looking at the site it looks like a collection of parts. The stock is preshaped with barrel and ramrod channels done. It looks like you will have to inlet the lock, triggers and buttplate. You will have to install the tenons and sights on the barrel and drill and tap the tang and lock bolts. You will also have to do a bit of stock shaping. It is a lot more work than the GPR kit. If you decide to take on one of these kits, get yourself a good book on the subject. "The Gunsmith of Greenville County" and "Recreating the American Longrifle" are two of the best.

If you get it "in the white", the rifle is assembled and can be fired in that state. You still have to do the final finishing to the wood and metal.

I have a .36 with a 13/16" X 42" barrel that I built about 30 years ago. It is a great shooter but actually weighs in more than my .50 15/16" X 42" Tennesse. Either the .36 or the .40 would do fine in a 13/16" barrel. I can't imagine what those calibers would be like in a 1" barrel. I'm not tough enough to try to handle that much weight offhand all day.
 
If you are using just for squirrels,the 32 is great.I have a TC Cherokee and it is more than enough for them.If you are after bigger game as turkeys,etc. go 36.I have grown to really enjoy the peashooters as much as the bigger boys.
 
I agree about the .32. They are a lot of fun. A couple of years ago I built a little flinter for terrorizing the local bunny population. I wanted a lightweight rifle that would be fast handling.

I went with a 3/4"X36" Green Mountain barrel. I started with a blank and brass mounted it. I had a Dixie Ashmore lock that had been hanging around for about 20 years and used it for ignition. The rifle turned out great and will shoot better than I can.
 
I would go for 32. Have two. would use a .25 if I had it. Ed Rayle has the .25&30 barrels. .32 kills groundhogs graveyard dead with 20grs of 3fff&RB. Dilly
 
Just going by what I have read, Is the 32 more prone to fouling then the 36? I am kinda leaning towards the 36 because of this and the fact that buckshot can be used instead of buying RB for the 40cal. Thoughts
 
Rem, The TVM kits are far more than just a collection of parts. The stocks are cut for each individual gun, not pre-carved by machine. And the holes for the lock screws and other screws are already located in both the stock and the metal pieces. However, you still can't compare a TVM kit with a GPR kit, with the TVM kit you have a lot more work to do. Also, a lot more tools will be needed. If you do want to complete the rifle yourself, go with the in-the-white version as was already recommended. Otherwise, just go for the finished rifle. And in the calibers you are considering, go with the 13/16 barrel. Barrel length is up to your tastes. I'd certainly consider the 36" tube in those small calibers. The shorter barrel helps keep the rifle's weight down, easier to carry on the trail. Don't avoid a .32 because of fouling, they'll all foul if you use too much powder or a poor lube. Also, you can buy buckshot to use in the .32 just like the .36. Single "0" buckshot should work in a .32 with the proper sized or thickness of patch. And, as one more bit of tastes, I'd prefer the TVM Southern Rifle over their Tennessee Rifle. I like the wider buttplate and the trigger guard (North Carolina style) better. Le Grand
 
Yes. Simple laws of physics tell us that burning anything in a smaller hole will leave more residue proportionally than if that same amount was burned in a larger hole. Compare shooting .22 cartridges in a revolver, with shooting .38 cartridges in a revolver. The .22 will always foul to the point of being difficult to load in fewer shots, than will the .38.

The .32 is a fine caliber, capable of amazing accuracy within its range limitations. But it has to be cleaned between shot, or it very quickly says, " No more ". Since I decided that cleaning between shots was just the smart thing to do if I wanted the best accuracy from my rifles, This requirement does not bother me in the least. I accept the fact that I may miss a shooting opportunity while i am cleaning my barrel in the field.

Others here have an aversion to cleaning their barrels after each shot, and seek out that magic lube, or powder combination that lets them shoot dozens of shots without cleaning. For them, laying down lots of round balls every time they go to the range is the most important part of shooting.

The nice thing about BP shooting is you have a choice.
 
I think the buckshot size to match the 32 is about .311.Found this out AFTER I bought 900 RBs.With 20 grs of FFFg I notice no more fouling than any other muzzy.
 
I have heard this a lot but never had any problem. The one came with brass rod, to heavy replaced with wood. The other came with fiberglass, diidn"t replace it. All the black powder I have shot is dirty. I started out always cleaning after every shot. Spit or what ever was handy,mudpuddle,ect. If not sure If I will get another Shot this day,I field clean like at home. So gun is ready next day. Got 27 Gr- hogs out of 6 acre soybean field so far. We just had our first heavy frost last nite. You can shot buckshot in the .32 too. Dilly
 
rem700 said:
Just going by what I have read, Is the 32 more prone to fouling then the 36? I am kinda leaning towards the 36 because of this and the fact that buckshot can be used instead of buying RB for the 40cal. Thoughts


I've been toying with the idea of a .36 also for the same reason mentioned about buckshot. Also I'd like to use it on large varmints like yotes. Anyone know what the effective range on a .36 is with a RB and/or a Maxi-ball?
 
I shoot both a 32 and a 36, and if there's a difference in fouling between the two calibers, I must have magic rifles. I sure haven't seen any difference. And especially for hunting rather than range work, fouling is never bad enough to be a factor. If you shoot more than half a dozen shots on a hunt, please draw me a map to your favorite spots, and I'll be there. I'm in habit of swabbing every third shot on the range regardless of caliber, but often forget to do it on hunts. I'm not a competition shooter, but I've never seen a significant loss of accuracy or increase in loading effort as a result.

Pick the style that suits your tastes and the caliber that whets your curiosity. For head shooting game, the size of the hole isn't going to make any difference. But enjoying shooting what you invested your money in is going to make a huge difference.
 
With a 32 caliber rifle you are shooting a RB that only weighs about 40-45 grains. That is the weight of a .22 long rifle bullet. They do shoot .22s out to 100 yds, but a .32 RB is not going to be as accurate at that range.

a .36 RB weighs about 65 grains, and is accurate to 100 yd, but effective range may be less, depending on your target. If you are shooting ground hogs or lesser varmints, then keep the distance to 50 yds or less. That should not be a problem, as even I have slowly walked up to within 20 feet of a ground hog on occasion, and about six feet of a sitting rabbit.

A .36 conical varies in weight, but will be 120 grains or so, again, depending on the bullet design. Hollow based and pointed conicals will have less weight, than those with flat noses. and plain bases. Those conicals can be very effective out to 75-80 yards, and have taken deer with head or neck shots out to 100 yds. The question always is whether the shooter is capable of making such a shot in field conditions. I always ask shooters, if you were hunting with a .30-30, or .308, would you choose to use a 120 grain or lighter bullet to hunt deer? If the answer is ' no ", then the same answer fits your choice of bullets for a .36 cal. ML rifle, too.
 
I own a Traditions "Crockett" in 32 cal. I cast .311 balls and have killed a mess of squirrels with this little cheapo.

I haven't shot it in a coon's age, but I can recall just barely being able to ram a second shot without wiping. I think a third would probably be impossible.

Even so, it was alot of fun and doggone cheap to shoot. I've thought about pulling the drum, restocking to full length and adding a Becky to her.
 
Have 4(3 percussion 1 flint in the works) 32's,3(2 percussion 1 flint) 36's, 1(percussion) .40 love my Peashooters. I too can't tell any difference in fouling over the big boys. Started cleaning after every shot many years ago and it works for me. Love the .32 for squirrels and the .36 for the larger than squirrel game. Also have notice that the .32 is a little more wind prone than the .36.
Surprising enough killed a Yote this week that came in to a call while hunting the limb chicken. Normally I have the .36 for yotes, but had the .32 that morning.That .32 rifle is my favorite her misfortune that morning. Shot placement ,practice , practice with time at the range is the key. Whatever you chose good luck..I guess you can tell I like Peashooters.. :grin: PeashooterJoe..
 
Regardless of the caliber, think hard about the use of the rifle. If you'll be hunting small game, you'll want accuracy with light charges. If you want varmints, heavier charges are desirable. Twist rate will affect the charge weight, the faster the twist, the lighter the accurate charge can be.
 
I wonder if any of you who say a .32 caliber won't shoot at 100 yards have ever shot a .32 at 100 yards? Once you have worked up the best ball & patch combination, the .32 will shoot nice, tight groups at 100 yards, without wiping between shots. I know this because I have done this many times. No magic lubes(I use soapy water at the range, olive oil for hunting). I will say that you are not going to get pinpoint accuracy wit a .32 GM barrel using a smaller than bore size ball, I use a .323 rb in mine with .017 patching and 35 gr. ffg powder- that's right FFG!
Be well, Bill
 
It seems the smaller calibers were very much in vogue in the mid 19th century. I picked up 6 original old barrels at a show a couple years back and have since restocked 4 of them with flintlock ignitions. They all have very good bores. What was the coolest thing is that they all had their original open sights on em! Two of the barrels have signature stamps...J.Henry & Son. The calibers are .32, .30, .31, and .28. These are all 40 to 42 inch straight long barrels and pretty heavy to boot, but for my off hand blasting have not been too big a chore to shoulder. I have to admitt shooting small bore guns can become quite an obsession if you're not carefull! I'm an incureable addict to black powder anyway! :youcrazy: Here is a pic of the first 3 rifles that are done.
BuiltbyJoel019.jpg
BuiltbyJoel012.jpg
 
Pawbill said:
I wonder if any of you who say a .32 caliber won't shoot at 100 yards have ever shot a .32 at 100 yards? Once you have worked up the best ball & patch combination, the .32 will shoot nice, tight groups at 100 yards, without wiping between shots. ...

My experience is pretty much the same. My .32 has a GM barrel. I use a .311 ball with a .024 denim patch. At 25 and 50 yards I use 30 grains of 3F. For target shooting and plinking I use spit for lube. The rifle will shoot all day without cleaning. I up to the load to 45 grains for 100 yards to hit the same POA that I have at 50 yards. Off a bench on a quiet day they will group at about 3" at 100 yards. About as well as I can see with open iron sights at that range.

My .36 has a 42" Sharon barrel. I use a .350 ball with a .024 denim patch with spit as a lube. It will also shoot all day with the 30 grain load I use for it. If I stoke it with 40 grains for 100 yards, it will start to crud up a little but mostly down in the breach area. The rest of the bore stays clean.
 
I have a 36 Bobcat myself. It is accurate with a variety of loads. I shoot 000 buck with commercial Basspro patches. Buy the biggest patches they have and you get multiple shots out of each one. Using 3f 777, you can shoot all day long, and we have. Using 3f Goex, you can shoot about 10 times. Using Graf's about 10 times. Using P, about 25 times.
The 32 can foul worse than the 36. Like Paul said. It is simple physics. Burn 20 grains of powder in a 36 under a 65 grain bullet and there will be less fouling than the same in a 32 with a 40 grain bullet.
The tiny ram on a 32 rod is very easy to damage and does not support hard loading at all. The 36 ramrod is stronger, but I don't allow the barrel to ever reach the hard loading stage.
I am currently using RS in my 36 because that is what is in the horn for use with the bigger calibers. It does not seem to make any difference to the gun.
Like Paul, I run a spit patch on both sides and a dry patch on both sides between shots when hunting. All of my guns shoot more consistantly that way, so that is what I do. The only gun I don't swab between shots is my 12 guage!
Close range precision shooting is what these little guns are about. 100 yards is possible, but look up the wind drift on a 32 ball at 100 yards in a 5 mile cross wind sometime. If I want to shoot 100 yards at small targets, I use one of my 50's myself.
The 32 and the 36 are very good close range deer guns. They are illegal in most places for that use and if there is a place they are allowed, they are still close range precision shot placement guns just like they are with squirrels.
A 36 inch barrel will burn any useful powder charge you decide to shoot out of either caliber. The longer barrels are not needed unless you have a historic style reason for them.
If I had my choice, I would want a 36 with about a 36 to 38 inch barrel as light as was available with a fullstock and a quick flint ignition system. Since I don't have my choice, I have a halfstock caplock 36 with a heavier short barrel. It will burn 60 grains of 3f just fine if I ever find a use for that heavy a loading. 25 grains causes the ball to completely splatter on steel plate at 50 yards. That is more than enough energy for anything the gun is good for!

Hope that helps!
B. Williams
 
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