In addition I would add, get a bench vise. Vice jaws that can be lined with wood or leather so as to hold irregular shapes and nonparallel sides are better. I bought a pattern vise from Woodcraft to finish my .58 Colonial.I ordered a Kibler in December. Katherine told me last week mine is very close to going into production.
You need to learn to use a leather strop for sharpening chisels. You don't want to use stones every time.
Here's the latest build list from Jim:
Building and Finishing A Kibler Kit Tool List:
A good brand of chisel are the Pfeil or Swiss Made tools sold by Woodcraft. But, to be honest, there's nothing wrong with a cheaper variety. You might have to sharpen a little more frequently, but they will cut just fine. I have heard good things about Narex being affordable and decent quality.
A medium and fine grit sharpening stone will work fine. You could use natural stones such as Arkansas, or something like ceramic or diamond. Again, I wouldn't go to crazy with something expensive. Diamond are very nice but a little pricy. Arkansas might be a good choice.
A cabinet scraper is a nice tool to have. Yes, I'm referring to a square flat piece of steel. Ones that are on the thinner side are best. Maybe .020-.025", but then again, any of them will work okay.
To draw file, all you need is a flat mill file. Usually around an 8" file works well.
*1/4” chisel *Xacto style knife *small mallet sharpening stone
*6”-8” single cut mill file *6”-8” half-round file fine cut *half-round needle file triangular (3-square) needle file flat needle file
*1/16” drill bits
*1/16” pin punch
*battery, electric or hand drill
*pliers or vise grips
*articulating arm lamp (draftsman style lamp with full range of motion preferred) jewelers saw (optional)
150-320 grit abrasive paper for wood 150-320 grit abrasive paper for metal cabinet scraper (optional)
jack stand prop for rifle (optional) extension cord
inletting transfer color
wood stain and finish of your choice metal finishing solution of your choice
When I built my kit I purchased a new diamond stone, a world of difference compared to my Dad's stone from WWII.I have decent chisels and sharpening stones but I never tried to sharpen them. What is the trick? Good tutorial?
I would focus on the two chisels Kibler recommended in the one post and learn how to sharpen and use those. It's better to have a few tools that you are intimately familiar with than to have a whole bench full of stuff you don't know how to use.Are skew chisels advised?
Great information from someone with experience! Thanks for this!!!I would focus on the two chisels Kibler recommended in the one post and learn how to sharpen and use those. It's better to have a few tools that you are intimately familiar with than to have a whole bench full of stuff you don't know how to use.
The basic chisel has two working faces and a dozen or more applications can be performed with it, here are the 4 most common:
1. Horizontal cuts: Primary bevel facing the wood for shaving off bottom surfaces. If you have the back of the chisel facing the wood then it will dig in and hog out wood.
2. Vertical cuts and stabs: Back of the chisel facing the wood for shaving downward cuts and stabs into the side of an inlet.
3. Using the edge to scrape surfaces.
4. Pushing at a 45 degree angle for shearing cuts. Convenient for wrapping around the bottom of inlets particularly ones with curved borders.
There are many many many many more things one basic chisel can do, this should just get you started.
Don't look at the mallet as something to hog out huge chunks of wood, that is one of the things an experienced builder will use it for, but think of it as something that you use to drive the chisel slower but with more control than pushing it by hand. Really light, gentle taps using your wrist to drive it and not your shoulder. This is surgery, you're not shoeing a horse. Again, use the mallet to give you more control, not more speed.
I use a skew chisel a good bit but I build from a blank. They're handy, but not one of my more common ones. The skew helps facilitate a shearing cut, think of a pair of scissors and how the blade on them achieves full contact with the paper gradually instead of all at once. This same thing can be achieved with a standard chisel so I wouldn't worry about it. Just get really familiar with the two already recommended.
The best thing any of you can do is get a scrap block of maple and practice sharpening and inletting stuff into it while you are waiting for your kits. Clamp the scrap block into your vice and just grab a piece of scrap metal or whatever and keep inletting the heck out of it until you are confident with making very clean, tight inlets. Get confident doing that and when the kit arrives you will laugh and say "now this is easy" and build an outstanding rifle, which is better than opening up the box and picking up a chisel for the first time and saying "how does this thing work?".
Google 'scary sharp.' It's a method of sharpening using different grades of sandpaper over an extremely flat surface (such as glass), instead of using stones. After I started using it, I was embarrassed by what I had considered sharp most of my life. It takes my planes and chisels to a whole new level.
add: and congrats on ordering your Kibler. I'm totally in love with my .40 Southern Mountain rifle; I'd probably marry it if I didn't already have a wife.
You are definitely going to need those two chisels Kibler mentioned. You can buy the pfeil or if you know how to dress up a chisel you can save a lot of money by purchasing them on ebay, flea markets, or garage sales. Do a search for "vintage chisel", here are some brands I really like (I edited down a list I found online, removed the ones that I was unfamiliar with):I do not have the small chisels mentioned. These are my Mortise chisels