New stain idea

[LongWalker]

It's good that you are experimenting and trying new things. Most experiments fail, but some don't, and become the "new thing". That's how civilization advances.

"That's how civilization advances" when people are building on what has been learned from what has been done before. I have to laugh at anyone who spends a significant amount of time/money building a rifle/buying a rifle "in the white"/building a kit, and then tries to cheap out on the finish or "experiment" without knowing what works or why. One way or another, in time or money, you've come this far, why ruin it by trying to save a few $$$?

Worst case, $50-55 will cover the cost of the various ferric nitrate stains and a proven finish. You can make ferric acetate at home for a couple bucks and use Tru-Oil for ~$15.

The traditional dyes or stains are just that because they work. They may get darker over time (depending on at least a dozen variables) but they won't fade to a muddy grey (like coffee or food coloring), corrode metal (like many fabric dyes), or turn green (potassium dichromate and chromium trioxide). If you're going to step away from proven dyes and stains stains like ferric nitrate, ferric acetate, asphaltum, or tested/known-lightfast analines, at least do your experiments on something other than your gun stock.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Totally agree. Experiment on things that are not the final product. There have to be REALLY good reasons for deviating from tried and true materials and methods!

Also agree that saving $5-$50 when you're in so deep already in "sunk costs" is a fool's errand. Making a scraper or gouge--sure. That's not the final product. Changing stains or varnishes---be careful!

I always budget an extra 20% above known materials costs for contingencies. The "unknown unknowns". That might be tools I didn't know I needed, or new base materials I messed up and have to re-do, or heaven knows what. I'm more concerned with getting it "right" than I am in bringing it in on a budget. But that's for stuff I'm keeping. Building for sale is a different animal.

 

[Crow#21957]

Well guys. Scratch the red food coloring.
Didn't take well in some areas. But this wood has some odd grain but I'm going to say the red does not work.

 

[Dale Allen Raby]

@James Kibler is right, food coloring will fade quickly. The manufacturer never intended it to last very long, though it seems to be working pretty well for me with my powder measures. The main enemy is UV light... which is part of the sunlight spectrum. This is why color photographs fade if you have them out in brightly lit rooms. There are UV blockers that can help, but I don't know how they would work as a wood finish. Try to find a stain that is designed for wood or maybe try making the stock from cherry, bloodwood or redheart if you want it red. I've always thought a purple heart wood stock would be a good project.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

During my 40 year career my staining technique has evolved. Right now I start with a canary yellow Aniline dye followed by kibles iron nitrate. After blushing I assess what the color is then make adjustments with various commercial dyes until I achieve the color im after.
It never works out the same, always a different combination. I have aways avoided hair brained home made concoctions and leather dye.

 

[waksupi]

Uh oh, I put a few drops of liquid RIT into some honey maple to darken. How much damage did I do? Sorry, not trying to hijack this thread.

You may find this of interest.

https://shotgunreport.com/2013/05/22/browning-salt-wood-explained/

 

[longcruise]

I use it on bows and arrows, it doesn't fade over time.

Fiblings mahogany leather dye will certainly fade over time

I'm in agreement with jim. I used fiebings to stain a maple bow riser and it held up for a pretty good while but after 8 years it was badly faded and not evenly so. It may be mitigated by UV resistant finish but I'll also add that the bow was rarely out of storage in a basement room with no sunlight.