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Finishing a SMR cherry stock

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Well, It's to the point where it's time to finish the cherry stock on my SMR.
I've read a lot of posts on different methods and have tested some on a few scraps of cherry that were included with the kit.
I like the rich red color that treating the stock with Lye gives me. The metal will be finished using JAX blacking as recommended by Mr. Kibler.
I've tried using a solution of 1 Tbs in 1 Pt of water. However, I'm not getting the results i like, it looks blotchy.

After reading about using Dollar store oven cleaner. I gave that a tried and it looks pretty good and is not as messy to apply.
To you guys who have used this method, I have a question. I'm pretty sure you have to neutralize the oven cleaner with white vinegar as you do with lye and water.
But, also read just spray it on wait 10 mins, wipe it off let it dry over night and use your final finish, like Permalyn. No mention of using vinegar.
Your input would be very helpful. Is blushing with a heat gun done while the wood is still wet or after it;s dry?

Also any thoughts on final finish.
I friend used to use LIN_SPEED finish on his guns. but, I'm concerned about it reacting with the lye in the oven cleaner and making the finish foggy.
 
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Well, It's to the point where it's time to finish the cherry stock on my SMR.
I've read a lot of posts on different methods and have tested some on a few scraps of cherry that were included with the kit.
I like the rich red color that treating the stock with Lye gives me. The metal will be finished using JAX blacking as recommended by Mr. Kibler.
I've tried using a solution of 1 Tbs in 1 Pt of water. However, I'm not getting the results i like, it looks blotchy.

After reading about using Dollar store oven cleaner. I gave that a tried and it looks pretty good and is not as messy to apply.
To you guys who have used this method, I have a question. I'm pretty sure you have to neutralize the oven cleaner with white vinegar as you do with lye and water.
But, also read just spray it on wait 10 mins, wipe it off let it dry over night and use your final finish, like Permalyn. No mention of using vinegar.
Your input would be very helpful.

Also any thoughts on final finish.
I friend used to use LIN_SPEED finish on his guns. but, I'm concerned about it reacting with the lye in the oven cleaner and making the finish foggy.

I use laurel mountain forge cherry stain, then finish with milk paint dark tung oil 50/50 spirits and around 10ml of japan drier per 1/8 of a cup. I seal the stock with Danish Oil in a sanding slurry up to 150 grit. I went stand the finish starting at 180 grit dry for 1 day, then again at 220 and 320. After the 320 coat dries I then apply the tung oil with a magic eraser until i get the desired satin finish.
 
Add your lye to your water and stir until dissolved while not breathing.

Lye is powerful stuff so start with a cup of water and a quarter teaspoon of lye.

Wipe it on and let the stock sit for a few hours as lye solution will darken a bit over a short period of time.

Add a bit more lye to your solution until you get the color you want.

I do not neutralize after lye applications.

Others will disagree.

Good luck.


P.S. Your barrel channel has plenty of room for testing. Sand that channel smooth. An unsanded surface will appear darker.
 
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I'm no chemist but I do know that vinegar will rust steel since it's an acid. Lye is a base and I don't think it will rust steel. Flushing a stock with an acid seems like the wrong thing to do. Any chemists here who can clarify this?
 
I considered doing a home made finish on my Kibler SMR but then thought I would feel pretty stupid if I ruined an extra fancy maple stock to save the $25 aqua fortis would cost. No idea how to finish a cherry stock though. Just my thoughts.
 
Well, settled on 1 Tbs of lye powder in 1 pt of water. Here's the result. I'm happy with the color. The lye / water really raised whiskers. A little fine sanding or 0000 steel wool should take care of that.
The forearm to the muzzle is a little lighter on color the the butt. I wonder if applying a light wash of lye in that area would even out the color? The smaller light and dark spots in the stock are actually very small knots. An recommendations on what to use for the final finish.
I'll use JAX still to finish the metal parts.
 

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Well, settled on 1 Tbs of lye powder in 1 pt of water. Here's the result. I'm happy with the color. The lye / water really raised whiskers. A little fine sanding or 0000 steel wool should take care of that.
The forearm to the muzzle is a little lighter on color the the butt. I wonder if applying a light wash of lye in that area would even out the color? The smaller light and dark spots in the stock are actually very small knots. An recommendations on what to use for the final finish.
I'll use JAX still to finish the metal parts.
hello, I would be interested in seeing some photos of your finished product and what you used for it, I’m doing a cherry stocked SMR and trying to decide how to finish it.
 
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