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My balls are wrinkly ;)

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It looks like you have some good rocks there to build a pit with which will help hold in the heat. Walnut or oak burns good.
I need to go back down to the creek and pull some more rocks out. I think it's only one layer 3-4" high or so. I'll see what I can scavenge for wood thank you.
 
Yes, too cold. I see you are using an aluminum (Lee?) mould...they cool off really quickly and if you need to set it down for even a minute, it needs to stay hot. As was mentioned previously, the first dozen go right back in the pot until the mould heats up.
I love the Old School thing, but an inexpensive Lee electric pot really helps regulate your casting temps.
Yeah they're Lee, cold temps and breeze didn't help my cause any! I have my eyes open for a used production pot but money is getting tighter by the day so I'll have to make due for now. I appreciate your input.
 
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First time casting, it was fun! I'm not using a thermometer, am I not getting the lead hot enough? Mold too cold? Does it really matter if they have some wrinkles? They feel fairly smooth but the shine makes the imperfections really obvious visually.
Some picky people will tell you smooth round balls are more accurate. It doesn't matter at all. I've been molding imperfect balls for over 60 years and have never had an issue bringing home the bacon. We have a saying in the Corps, "It's not the dope on the rifle, it's the dope behind it". What it comes down to is whether you can shoot or not. People that can't shoot find all kinds of reasons why, except the real one. THEY JUST CANNOT HIT THEIR TARGET.
 
Some picky people will tell you smooth round balls are more accurate. It doesn't matter at all. I've been molding imperfect balls for over 60 years and have never had an issue bringing home the bacon. We have a saying in the Corps, "It's not the dope on the rifle, it's the dope behind it". What it comes down to is whether you can shoot or not. People that can't shoot find all kinds of reasons why, except the real one. THEY JUST CANNOT HIT THEIR TARGET.
Semper Fi brother
 
Yes, too cold. I see you are using an aluminum (Lee?) mould...they cool off really quickly and if you need to set it down for even a minute, it needs to stay hot. As was mentioned previously, the first dozen go right back in the pot until the mould heats up.
I love the Old School thing, but an inexpensive Lee electric pot really helps regulate your casting temps.
When I’m using a Lee mold I run about five ball as quick as I can just dumping ball and top lead right in the pot. I also over pour so a lot of hot lead dumps on the mould, getting it good and hot.
 
Preheat the mould before you start casting and the wrinkles will go away. Put it over a hot coal, or hit the mould for several good seconds with Mr. Bernzomatic before you pour the first ball. Usually once the lead melts it's hot enough to pour, so it's the mould you've got to warm up.
 
Hot mold, hot lead, and pour it in as fast as it will take it. If you trickle it in you can get wrinkles and worse yet, voids.
This was the issue I had with a Lee .311 RB mold. The lead was very hot. I heated and heated that mold. Preheated the heck out of it and it still produced wrinkles in some cavities/balls. I finally figured it was due to the tiny pour/sprue holes and taking so long for the lead to pour through them. I enlarged the sprue holes an it rectified the issue. However, I’m thinking the sprues might be too large for the balls. I got busy and stopped testing but plan on picking it back up soon. What few I did test were close in weight and shot fairly accurate but I only shot a couple.

Definitely on my to do list as soon as I’m able.
 
I've casted bullets for cartridges for years, but only very recently started casting round balls for MLs.
There's a difference. With round balls, I have to cast at a much faster pace to keep the aluminum mold screaming hot, or they'll wrinkle.
After they cool down, they go into a rock tumbler overnight to smooth them out and get rid of any leftover oddities from the sprue. If there's a small amount of wrinkling, I don't worry too much about it.
 
This was the issue I had with a Lee .311 RB mold. The lead was very hot. I heated and heated that mold. Preheated the heck out of it and it still produced wrinkles in some cavities/balls. I finally figured it was due to the tiny pour/sprue holes and taking so long for the lead to pour through them. I enlarged the sprue holes an it rectified the issue. However, I’m thinking the sprues might be too large for the balls. I got busy and stopped testing but plan on picking it back up soon. What few I did test were close in weight and shot fairly accurate but I only shot a couple.

Definitely on my to do list as soon as I’m able.
Funny you mentioned this. I've got a Lee .311 mould that consistently won't throw a ball from one of the cavities. I think it could just be the sprue hole that's causing it. I'm going to enlarge them next time I cast balls and see if that helps.
 
Funny you mentioned this. I've got a Lee .311 mould that consistently won't throw a ball from one of the cavities. I think it could just be the sprue hole that's causing it. I'm going to enlarge them next time I cast balls and see if that helps.
Look around for some

Super Buck Lead #1-1/2 (8 lb/jar) .310​

There are a lot of round ball in 8#. Different patching will make up for the .001 difference.
 
View attachment 290111View attachment 290112

First time casting, it was fun! I'm not using a thermometer, am I not getting the lead hot enough? Mold too cold? Does it really matter if they have some wrinkles? They feel fairly smooth but the shine makes the imperfections really obvious visually.
I shoot mine like that all the time they will be fine. Unless you are shooting for big money don't worry about it and just have fun. One thing I would do is take them out of that glass bowl and use a tin plate or can to put them in.
 
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