More patch and lube questions

[pepperbelly]

I have Ballistol and will be mixing some, probably 6 to 1 to start.
Once I soak my patch material and squeeze the excess out, how long do I need to let it dry?
Do I need to keep the lubed patch material in an airtight container like a ziploc bag if I won't be shooting immediately?
Can I lube some patches and store them? If so, how long can I store the lubed patch?

I would like to make some lubed patch material -, either cut patches or strips to be cut at the muzzle, and have them ready for whenever I can get out to shoot. I would hate to get to the range and find the patches have dried out.
I know it is a dry patch method, but how dry is too dry?

 

[smo]

I did mine with NAPA oil I let them dry until they were dry. :slap: lol Yes I keep mine in a air tight zip lock bag until I need them. Some say they have had issues with theirs molding in the bag, I haven't, could be they were put away damp. :idunno: I have mine cut into long strips and cut at the muzzle... :thumbsup: I only use these for hunting or I use plain virgin olive oil patches pre cut round and stored in a cap tin.. When I'm just blowing smoke and chunkin' lead I just shoot a spit patch cut at the muzzle as well. I can see no difference in the type of patch on my accuracy or lack there of. :redface: :wink:

 

[Spikebuck]

While there are many others with more experience than I have due to time using this method, I'll take a stab at the answers:

I have Ballistol and will be mixing some, probably 6 to 1 to start.
Once I soak my patch material and squeeze the excess out, how long do I need to let it dry?

Depending on the temp and humidity mine "dry" fairly quickly...2 to 4 hours. Only the water is drying out. The oil stays in, but they feel like they are dry. But when you load it and smack the ball with the short starter, you will see some oil come out of the patch. Make sure you dry them on a smooth non-porous surface. I lay mine on a glass sheet.

Do I need to keep the lubed patch material in an airtight container like a ziploc bag if I won't be shooting immediately?

I don't know that you "need" to, but I keep mine in a small Tupperware container. If nothing else it helps to keep them clean.

Can I lube some patches and store them? If so, how long can I store the lubed patch?

I have read a year is no problem. I've never made up so much that it would last anywhere near a year.

I know it is a dry patch method, but how dry is too dry?

I think Dutch recommends 1 to 7 or 8 is close to the best for accuracy. My .62 Jaeger can shoot a ragged hole (bench rested)at 75 yards with 1 part ballistol and 2 parts water, which is probably considered pretty "wet" as far as the dry patch method goes. Since I'm only interested in hunting, I don't need better than that and that amount of "wetness" allows for a little easier loading, IMO.

 

[necchi]

Once I soak my patch material and squeeze the excess out,

Don't do that!
That's the #1 reason the dry lube patch doesn't work for folks!
They squeeze all the lube mix out.

When you saturate the fabric strip, run it lightly through your fingers to remove excess mix. The fabric should still be very wet, almost dripping, with the mix.
Lay the strip out flat on a non-porous surface like aluminum foil, or a metal/plastic sheet.

I let mine dry 24hours,(and I'll flip it once in that drying process) then fold it and slip it in a zip lock bag.
The idea is to let the water evaporate, and leave just the oil in the fabric. If water is still present when ya stuff it in a bag the fabric might mildew or rot.

 

[azmntman]

Where do we get Balistol? Also does MR Flintlock sell on line through the "usual" vendors? Have not seen any yet---EVER?

 

[pepperbelly]

Where do we get Balistol? Also does MR Flintlock sell on line through the "usual" vendors? Have not seen any yet---EVER?

You can order Ballistol from Midway or Brownell's and probably other vendors. I found a local supplier.

 

[pepperbelly]

Once I soak my patch material and squeeze the excess out,

Don't do that!
That's the #1 reason the dry lube patch doesn't work for folks!
They squeeze all the lube mix out.

When you saturate the fabric strip, run it lightly through your fingers to remove excess mix. The fabric should still be very wet, almost dripping, with the mix.
Lay the strip out flat on a non-porous surface like aluminum foil, or a metal/plastic sheet.

I let mine dry 24hours,(and I'll flip it once in that drying process) then fold it and slip it in a zip lock bag.
The idea is to let the water evaporate, and leave just the oil in the fabric. If water is still present when ya stuff it in a bag the fabric might mildew or rot.

Thanks Necchi. That is very useful info. I appreciate it.

 

[tdiem52]

could you hang it up and let it drip dry ?

 

[rafterob]

Hanging it can lead to uneven distribution of oil. It really needs to lay flat for optimal results.

 

[Billnpatti]

Dutch Schoultz explains how to make the dry lube patches in his accuracy system www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com. Aftere soaking the strips of patch material in the desired Ballistol/water mixture, they must be laid flat and level. If thtey are not exactly flat and level, the mixture will migrate to the lowest spots and cause a heaver deposition of Ballistol in those areas. The end result is an uneven distribution of lubricant on your patches. The actual drying time will depend on your humidity and temperature in the place that you are drying them. I usually let mine dry overnight. After drying them on a flat and level surface, I just roll mine up and put them in an empty plastic pill bottle from the pharmacy. At my age, I have plenty of them laying around the house. As long as they are completely dry of all water when you put them in the bottle, they will last a long time. I don't know how long because I use mine up within a couple months but I would expect that if they are sealed up with a tight fitting cap, they should last for at least a year if not longer. If you get in a hurry and put them in a bottle too soon before all of the water has dried out, they will mold on you so be sure they have had plenty of time to completely dry out all of the water before sealing them up in the pill bottles.

 

[Patocazador]

Also does MR Flintlock sell on line through the "usual" vendors? Have not seen any yet---EVER?

The info is here: http://www.frontiermuzzleloading.com/t6405-ordering-mr-flintlocks-patch-lube

 

[smil]

I ordered my Ballistol from here.
http://www.ballistol.com/

They were quite prompt in sending it out.

 

[Spikebuck]

Track of the Wolf sells it too. A can lasts a long, long time.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/370/1/BALLISTOL-16

 

[pepperbelly]

Dutch Schoultz explains how to make the dry lube patches in his accuracy system www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com. Aftere soaking the strips of patch material in the desired Ballistol/water mixture, they must be laid flat and level. If thtey are not exactly flat and level, the mixture will migrate to the lowest spots and cause a heaver deposition of Ballistol in those areas. The end result is an uneven distribution of lubricant on your patches. The actual drying time will depend on your humidity and temperature in the place that you are drying them. I usually let mine dry overnight. After drying them on a flat and level surface, I just roll mine up and put them in an empty plastic pill bottle from the pharmacy. At my age, I have plenty of them laying around the house. As long as they are completely dry of all water when you put them in the bottle, they will last a long time. I don't know how long because I use mine up within a couple months but I would expect that if they are sealed up with a tight fitting cap, they should last for at least a year if not longer. If you get in a hurry and put them in a bottle too soon before all of the water has dried out, they will mold on you so be sure they have had plenty of time to completely dry out all of the water before sealing them up in the pill bottles.

Thanks Bill. I will be ordering his system soon.

 

[oddball]

I am not responding to any individual post. 1/3 murphys oil,1/3 peroxide and 1/3 rubbing alchaol
makes a great patch lube. stored in a plastic snuff can :surrender: It is a great lube and cleans the barrel as well.

 

[Zonie]

Sure wish I could figure out what that Peroxide does. :hmm:

It's just distilled water with some extra oxygen atoms attached to it.

Those extra oxygen atoms soon break off of the water molecule and float away (if they don't find something like steel to mate up with. They love steel so it's probably best to just let them leave the area.

Then again, it must be good stuff. It costs over three times the price of distilled water.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I don't know but isn't a single oxygen atom the difference between water and air? and isn't water the most corrosive liquid on earth. :rotf:
All joking aside I tried omitting the peroxide and it didn't work nearly as good for cleaning. :idunno:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Sure wish I could figure out what that Peroxide does.

Dissolves 'stuff' and gunk better than anything else I have tried. That is what it does.
Non-chemist here. Can't explain the extra atom stuff. :hmm:
But, I'm told, don't drop a piece of kryptonite into it. A small city in Arizona was wiped off the map that way once. :shocked2: :wink:

 

[coloradoclyde]

:thumbsup:

 

[Joe Zakas]

A question on lube and patch from reading a post by Billnpatti on Stuck Ball 50 cal Kentucky thread. When at the range for a long day of shooting, how often does one do a cleaning wipe between shots? For me, it is an middle ground between field hunting loads and serious nail driving loads. Are the lube patch combos meant to eliminate fouling for 5 to 10 shots, then wipe clean?