How to apply patch lube.

[JDBraddy]

Another shooter gave me a handful of Ox-yoke pre-lubed patches and l liked them, found a recipe for olive oil and beeswax, made my first batch, tried dipping the patch materials in the melted lube, but that was way too much, made a mess on the muzzle when starting a ball. Tried painting the melted lube on patch material with a brush, again it was too much. Tried rubbing the patch on it in a tin, made a mess. Tried dipping and squeezing out the excess, burnt my fingers. The commercially made patches where thin, even distribution, no excess on the muzzle when seating a ball. How do you guys apply the lube to patch material?

 

[Brokennock]

It's just oil and wax, wipe off the mess from the muzzle and your fingers and don't worry about it, is my 1st reaction.

I don't use precut patches anymore, when I used to I just wiped then across the cooled and solidified lube. Now I put strips or a sheet of patch material on a board and when the lube mixture is at a paste like consistency I put a lump of it on the material and spread it on the material with an old plastic card,,, similar in thickness to a credit card but slightly more flexible. If I feel there is too much I warm the material with a heat gun and kind of "squeegee" (spelling?) it from top to bottom squeezing and pushing the excess out and off,,, but generally I don't worry about it and overcomplicate it.
I've also dipped strips in the melted lube then squeezed the strip and pulled it through my fingers to remove excess wearing heavy rubber gloves...
Lots of ways to skin this cat,,, but also no need to go crazy over it.

 

[Frontier's]

 

[wiscoaster]

Rubbing the dry patch on the lube works best, but put the lube in a saucer so it's easier to rub and evenly distribute.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I pour my mixture into small food storage containers about the size of a bar of soap. I store it in those. But, when I need some lubed patching I take large piece and lay on a flat surface. I then take one of the cakes and rub it onto the material. That is stored in a zip lock baggie. When needed for use I tear off a strip and tie to my bag strap. The strip is then used for cutting at the muzzle.

 

[deerstalkert]

that "mess at the muzzle" can easily be wiped off with a dry patch, thus lubing said dry patch. if i were squeamish of a mess, i would be shooting them new fangled thingy's .
by the time i have shot 20 rounds, wiped the muzzle, wiped the pan four or five times, wiped the flint the same, my hands are dirtier then the bore.
i melt my lube in a shallow tin, drop in 25-50 patches and pick them out with some forceps. then i spread them on a paper plate. once set up they are like Potatoe chips. store them in a pill bottle.
my lube this time of year is 10% bees wax and 90% bear fat. during the summer i will blend as much as 50/50.
if i keep the pill bottle in my pocket this time of year the "chips" stay pliable.
just my .002.

 

[Omahkapi'si]

I keep my patches in a little tin box in my shooting bag. Once in awhile I add patches, add some lube and put it on the woodstove for a minute or two. Patches are lubed before you know it.

 

[Erwan]

i melt my lube in a shallow tin, drop in 25-50 patches and pick them out with some forceps. then i spread them on a paper plate. once set up they are like Potatoe chips. store them in a pill bottle.

Hi, deerstalkert,
I used to do this with Wonder Lube 1000 grease. Now I put my patches on a square metal cookie tin lid and put (with a plastic e-cigarette pipette) five drops of ox foot oil on each patch, the patches stacked in a box and the box in my pocket...

 

[bpd303]

I've used every kind mentioned. But the best for me is to hold a strip of material cut to the correct width in my mouth to saturate it with spit. Take it out of mouth, place over muzzle, start the ball, cut at muzzle and ram the ball down with a firm seat on the powder. Method taught to me by my grandfather, no fumbling with loose patches.

 

[longcruise]

five drops of ox foot oil

Hmmmmm. Neatsfoot oil?

Get a 16 oz plastic bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol. Pour 4 or 5 ounces of the alcohol off. Replace with an equal amount cooking oil. Lay out a strip of patch material and shake the mixture hare then squirt it onto the patch strip. Leave it laying flat until the alcohol evaporates. The alcohol is the carrier and gives an even distribution of the veg oil which is the actual lube.

Castor oil works too and who knows what else can be thought of. Denatured alcohol also works.

 

[JDBraddy]

It's just oil and wax, wipe off the mess from the muzzle and your fingers and don't worry about it, is my 1st reaction.

If I feel there is too much I warm the material with a heat gun.

Lots of ways to skin this cat,,, but also no need to go crazy over it.

Think I have it figured out, I put some tissue paper over the ironing board to protect the cover, laid the thick waxy strips that I dipped on the paper sandwiched between two dry strips, folded one edge of the tissue paper over all of them, and slowly ironed them, allowing the excess lube to melt and wick into the two dry strips, leaving me with three sparingly and evenly lubed strips.

Next, neatly arranged the dipped individual patches sandwiched between dry patches on the paper and did the same, with same result.

Next, I used a small disposable paint brush to brush melted lube across half my piece of pillow ticking, then folded the dry half over it, covering them with tissue paper and slowly ironing them, this thinly and evenly lubed the entire half yard of pillow ticking. Now, I can just cut pre-lubed strips off the end as I need them.

Finally, I added some more beeswax to the mixture taking the consistency from that of room temperature butter, to that of saddle soap. This allows me to rub dry patches across the top in the tin, without scooping out huge clumps.

 

[Brokennock]

Think I have it figured out, I put some tissue paper over the ironing board to protect the cover, laid the thick waxy strips that I dipped on the paper sandwiched between two dry strips, folded one edge of the tissue paper over all of them, and slowly ironed them, allowing the excess lube to melt and wick into the two dry strips, leaving me with three sparingly and evenly lubed strips.

Next, neatly arranged the dipped individual patches sandwiched between dry patches on the paper and did the same, with same result.

Next, I used a small disposable paint brush to brush melted lube across half my piece of pillow ticking, then folded the dry half over it, covering them with tissue paper and slowly ironing them, this thinly and evenly lubed the entire half yard of pillow ticking. Now, I can just cut pre-lubed strips off the end as I need them.

Finally, I added some more beeswax to the mixture taking the consistency from that of room temperature butter, to that of saddle soap. This allows me to rub dry patches across the top in the tin, without scooping out huge clumps.

Excellent job.
I have used a similar method to wax fabric for some water resistance.

If you want to load a little faster and with a little less fuss, seeing as you are cutting your own strips from a larger sheet of fabric,,, don't cut your strips as narrow as the folks that make and sell patching strips do. Cut them extra wide so you don't have to fuss with the position over the muzzle. Yes, you will waste a little bit of fabric.

 

[Rebel bull]

my method is I went to goodwill and found a fondue pot with a adjustable control. I buy my ticking a bolt at a time in 2 thicknesses 1 for winter/hunting .010" thick. the other .018 -.020" thick for summer shooting. I then cut a yard off and wash it to remove the sizing rip it into strips approx 11/4" wide this works for all of my guns. i then roll it into "hockey puck size" . while cutting and rolling i fill the pot half full of wonder lube put the puck into a egg basket ( for making hard boiled eggs ). once the lube is melted put the basket in the lube for about 5-10 minutes lift the basket and let it drip back into the pot ( lay a couple of skewers across the pot ) when the roll is cool enough to touch put it in a zip lock baggy. let the pot cool and store for the next time with the lube in it. 1 of my kids likes to cut at the muzzle, me my self I take a roll and pre cut my patches while watching tv I then stack them in a speer round ball box which keeps them from drying out, the box full lasts 2-3 shoots. pot and basket cost 10-15.00 dollars. recently i purchased a bulk lot of 10,000 ox yoke unlubed precut patches at less then a Penney a patch and using the same method to lube them

 

[BP Addict]

I generally use precut patches. My goto lube is Bear Grease and Beeswax. I put a little on my thumb and rub it in one at a time. I do this while watching TV so it's not as time-consuming as it would be otherwise. Most patches have a rough side and a smooth. I only lube the smooth side. When I used to do both, I'd rub it between my thumb and forefinger.

I've read that too much lube and the ball shoots high. Too little and it goes low. You need to find a happy middle.

Good Luck!

Walt

 

[oldwood]

Since I'm lazy , and like the simplicity of the common longrifle w/ a grease hole in the stock , I either cut or buy patches of the correct thickness , put a gob of grease lube in a plastic electrical tape box , dump some dry patches on the grease , and smear both sides of the patch with grease. Then , the secret , lay the patch on the lid of the plastic box , and with finger clean the excess grease off both sides of the patch.
As for the rifle stock with the grease hole , pile some patches up , stuck together , and stick them in the grease hole ready to use as needed. Put the plastic tape can in yur shot pouch , lets go. UUHHH............Plastic container can be substituted with a metal box from the pharmacy. These little quirks make hunting w/ ml , or going to the range better.

 

[Celt5494]

Lot's of good answers with ideas I have never thought of or tried before. I suppose my prefered method is to get whatever lube I use between my fingers and rub down both sides of the patch and put them away for shooting. Ften it will leave a bit of residue at the muzzle but I don't really care because after I take the shot there isn't much left. If there is and it bothers me I can just wipe it away after awhile. I think like Deerstalkert said after shooting 15-20 rounds and wiping the necessary parts down my hands are pretty grimy too. I suppose I don't care too much at the time. I prefer going a little heavier on the lube as at least in my opinion it helps to keep that fowling at bay.

 

[longcruise]

I generally use precut patches. My goto lube is Bear Grease and Beeswax. I put a little on my thumb and rub it in one at a time. I do this while watching TV so it's not as time-consuming as it would be otherwise. Most patches have a rough side and a smooth. I only lube the smooth side. When I used to do both, I'd rub it between my thumb and forefinger.

I've read that too much lube and the ball shoots high. Too little and it goes low. You need to find a happy middle.

Good Luck!

Walt

Indeed, I found inconsistent lube application to effect accuracy even when all other aspects of the load presented excellent accuracy. It's why I like the method above described in.post #10. It is based on my experiments applying Dutch's dry patch system except using cooking oil instead of NAPA cutting oil makes it easier to work with in the field. Never got around to the ballistol mixture.

 

[BP Addict]

Indeed, I found inconsistent lube application to effect accuracy even when all other aspects of the load presented excellent accuracy. It's why I like the method above described in.post #10. It is based on my experiments applying Dutch's dry patch system except using cooking oil instead of NAPA cutting oil makes it easier to work with in the field. Never got around to the ballistol mixture.

Do you still wipe between shots, per his directions?

Walt

 

[longcruise]

Do you still wipe between shots, per his directions?

Walt

Yes and no (how's that for a universal answer?)

When I use the described veg oil lube I do wipe after every shot. I've noticed that shot to shot seems more consistent. If I'm shooting spit on a trail walk or when speed really matters such as a stake shoot I get the patch wet enough to allow reloading easily without wiping. In a hunting situation or anytime im not at a loading bench i wipe between shots with spit where I am using an oil patch.

If I'm shooting at a loading bench I usually have a little spray bottle with water and liquid dish soap in it for wiping. The soap and water is also a good lube. Lately it's being touted as the answer to every question when mixed 50/50 but it really does work fine diluted far more than that. This jug had about a 1/2" of soap left in it and I topped it off with water for a very effective lube or wiping solution.

No, it's not Dawn but it's not for washing ducks so.......

But getting to your actual question, I do wipe after every shot when using the alcohol/veg oil lube.

 

[ADK Bigfoot]

To answer your original question, "how to lube patches", I pre-cut all my own patches from three or four different materials (thicknesses.) I use a hole drill with the teeth removed, chuck it in my drill press, and cut 20 thicknesses of material at a time.

I place each pre-cut patch on a piece of cardboard, put a large pea-sized dollop of Natural Lube 1000 (or equivalent) in the middle of each patch, and then put them in the microwave for 30-45 seconds. The lube will all melt and be absorbed into the material. Then I stack them (about 20 at a time) between two squares of milk carton (waxed cardboard) and squeeze them tight (I use a clamp for that) until they stop dripping. Then they all go into an airtight container until needed. this method is very consistent and rival store-bought patches.

ADK Bigfoot