metal finish on gpr's rust easy??

[jamie]

have any of you gpr owners noticed how easily the gun takes surface rust?
my gun does.
cant i just wipe her down with a little wd40 and call her good? :hmm:

 

I am not sure that you are not seeing powder residue or just good old range / woods enhanced oxidation. But, yes, I have noticed that my GPR does tend to "brown up" a white cleaning rag from time to time, especially if I have ignored it for a spell or just brought her in form the field or range. In fact, I just cleaned mine after a day shooting and found minor discoloration (I refuse to call it rust) signs on the cleaning rag. Typically I try to use the methon I learned in the Marine Corps, which is to clean the weapon after firing and then consecutively for 3 following days. Getting the dirt and burned powder off and then making sure that there is a thin coat of oil between the metal and tha air is what I try to accomplish. Sometimes I try to hit the target too, but that is another story .

 

[Lonegun1894]

I learned my cleaning method from the same University of Science, Music, and Culture as you, and I would bet what the question refers to isnt from improper cleaning. Mine has been having the same problem. Now, it isnt anything I cant handle with good cleaning habits and wiping with an oily rag on occasion, but i'm glad i'm not the only person with this issue. I know this much, I left all my other weapons in the safe during my time in the service and made it home to clean and oil them maybe once a year if i was lucky for 5 years, and they are just as i left them. The GPR was bought after i got out and it starts to rust/discolor if i go more than a couple weeks without at least wiping it down with that oily rag, and that is even if i dont get to go shoot it and all it does is just sit there. No other weapon i have is that rust-prone. Love the gun, but it definitely needs more attention than the rest of my guns.

 

Glad to see that a former fellow member of Uncle Sams Motocycle Club is onboard. Maybe there is something then with the blueing method Lyman uses that is the culprit. Since three of us, at this point in time, have identified the same issue it does point to a common concern that I now beleive has to do with the bluing. BTW - are not these Lyman guns actually made by Pedersoli? If so - I wonder if they have the same issue?

 

[AZ-Robert]

We have a pretty dry climate around here, but at least one fellow I know has complained about the barrel of his GPR rusting easily. His take on it is that "the steel is too soft," which I take to mean not high-carbon.

His showed some pitting around the rear sight, probably right where a hand would rest while carrying the rifle.

 

[Kentuckywindage]

wd40 will cause rust. I learned the hard way when i sprayed the cylinder walls on an engine im building up, let it sit for a week and found that it had a light coating of surface rust. The best ive found to use is rem oil in the spray can, spray your barrel, let it sit for a few minutes and then wipe down with a soft cloth.

 

[AeroncaTAL]

I'm finding some discoloration in the patches a day or so after cleaning on my GPR. I'm new to the game and am not sure if this is normal or not. I'm am not getting any rusting on the outside of the barrel, but I finished the metal myself. It is not an "off the shelf" gun.
Scott

 

The Lyman GPR, and Trade rifle and the Hawken sold by Cabela's,Dixie and others are made by Investarms,Italy.It has always amazed me that the GPR has such a crummy blue job, while the Hawken types have a very good blue. Like AeroncaTAL, if you re-do the barrel the rusting will stop (with normal care). In elk camp, I'd dry it off, oil it up, and head out again in the morning. (It rains sometimes here in Oregon.)--Bill

 

Aeronca, are you using Bore Butter as a storage lube? Bill

 

[AeroncaTAL]

It rains sometimes here in Oregon--Bill

Sometimes? :grin:
I here there's a chance for a couple of inches of snow down here in the valley floor Monday morning. That would be nice for a change. I'm in the trying mode right now Bill. I've been using a couple of different oils, seeing which storage oil works best. I haven't tried bore butter yet.
Scott

 

[Rebel]

For over 25 years nearly all i have used on mine is WD-40 and i have never had a problem with rust in Ariz., Eastern Oregon, and now here in Western Oregon. And i am hoping we don't get any snow anywhere until at least Monday since the wife and i have to go over the Cascades tomorrow to take the granddaughter back to Klamath Falls.

 

Not to bead a dead horse here but I pulled out my Lyman Trade Rifle and wiped it down in an attempt to see if there was any sign of oxidation. Well, not a bit. This makes me even more curious about the bluing on the GPR. Why would one gun be prone to oxidation and another gun -both by the same maker- not have the same problem? Gentlemen, I am off to the science lab (tool shed) to conduct some tests! This deserves some investigation and documentation so I will take the latest issue of Sports Afield with me.

 

[woodmaster62]

Hey all, :hatsoff:
My Great Plains capper has had bore butter pretty much all its time with me. I tried some Leigh valley the bro-in-law gave me, but went back to the bore butter because I thought it loaded easier with the butter. I use butter to lube inside and outside. So for in approx 8-10 years I've only had light rust on the barrel once. We were at the Piqua Heritage Days in Piqua Oh one year and the rain situation was more a monsoon. Even inside the tent the GP drew moisture.
But that been the only time. As we target shoot a lot and hunt most of the time with muzzleloaders, I'd say this has had 3000 rounds or better thru it. While the next gun will probably be a homemade flinter, this Great Plains ain't leaving my collection.
Have a good one! :thumbsup:

grumpy bear

 

[silverfox]

Don't have a GPR but rust problems are everywhere. I have used a produce called RustProof for 40 years without any problems even long time storage. It comes in a jar with a shammy type cloth that is saturated with the oil. Just take the cloth out and wipe down your rifle it doesn't seem to bother the finish on my guns. You will have to wipe you guns down before you use them as this tuff will still be on the metal. I haven't put any in the bore use automatic trans fluid or marvil mistery oil for that.
Fox :thumbsup:

 

[CrackStock]

As to the GPR, I browned the barrel and gave the outside no further thought. I just clean and wipe with whatever oil is available.

As to the inside, WD40 needs to be in there pretty thick, but it will do the job for a while.

(30 weight motor oil has worked in my experience. Gun Test magazine ran a test and 20W50 won their steel plate preserving test.)

For longer term, Rig, Sheath or some thicker and long term preservative is a better idea.

Take a look here:
Poke here for Dutch's Shooting Method

CS

 

[renovato]

A good first step in preventing rust is to make sure there is no firing residue left. You pick it up on your hands while loading and transfer it to any part of the rifle that you touch, along with salts and acids from your own skin. Give all the metal parts a good wipedown with whatever you're using to clean the bore, then follow with oil and it should end.

WD-40 is not a great rust proofer, nor it is intended to be. WD stands for water displacement, and that's what it'd best at.

The best thing I've found for rust prevention is CorrosionX. It also neutralizes skin acids. I have acidy hands and always rust the grips in handguns, even when oiled. CorrosionX ended that fast. It's also great for keeping a CLEAN bore from rusting, but be sure to clean it all out before firing. It's petroleum based and will probably foul the bore like crazy if you don't.

 

[bowjock]

Reading through most of these post, I rarely see anyone using Riggs to put on there guns. I have been using it for years and have not ha a problem with rust. Does anyone else use it?

 

[JiminTexas]

OK! I give up. Now what the heck is a GPR? I'm the newbie around here and I don't recognize all of the acronyms and abreviations that you folks use, so please tell me what the heck a GPR is.

 

[AeroncaTAL]

A Lyman Great Plains Rifle.

Scott

 

[CrackStock]

For longer term, Rig, Sheath or some thicker and long term preservative is a better idea.

Apparently, you missed my post. The biggest problem is that it is often hard to find. Hopefully this will help:
[url] http://www.silencio.com/htfiles/orders.html[/url]

Rig has an oil and a thicker grease. I have used both and often mention the products.

CS