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Maple Magic Stain

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TimCornick

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I am considering using maple magic stain on my current project. The problem is that it is an acid and needs to be nuturalized after applying or it will keep getting darker. Baking soda and water or vinagar and water is what I have been told to use. I am concerned that the water will raise the grain on the carved part of the stock. I have dewiskered the main part but the carving is the last thing I do, and it is not dewiskered after I carve it. Any ideas on other ways to stop the darking and to nutralize the stain?
 
If we are talking about "Magic Maple Stain", I can only speak for myself.

I bought a bottle of it and was prepared for some real magic.
After finish sanding and doing the Lye water treatment I applied the Magic stuff to the wood.

Suffice it to say I was not impressed with the magic. In fact, it looked so bad that I resanded the entire stock to remove all traces of the stuff, whiskered the stock again and applied a alcohol based stain.

Never again will I use Magic Maple Stain.

As an after thought, I have yet to hear of anyone who was pleased with that product. Maybe there is someone out there who can say he was?
 
Never used it myself as i'm not in your country. However i have made a few rifles and i can say with conviction that if you are getting warnings like this then you had better heed them. Its really! no fun just undoing your finnishing job cos your not happy with it, by the time you have sanded the stock down and the inlays stand proud now, where they laid flat before, then getting the stain out of the carving (mama you will be as bold as me, tearing your hair out like that, and you will !!). Also before you lay any stain on the stock at all. TEST it. get some scrap wood sand it whisker it stain and finnish it just as you would the stock. This pays dividends in reducing stuff ups. I have refinnished the same stock twice now. Do i wish i had gone slow and sure at the finnishing stages, you bet.
Heed the advice, please.
Regards
Dobson. :hatsoff:
 
Chromium Trioxide. This does seem to be a historical stain...at least to the 19th century. I remember years ago as a mere lad seeing an 1850's-60's-70's small caliber rifle with a long brass tube scope on it. The stock was as green as a pea. :shocked2:
 
When it works it does a beautiful job.

When it doesn't, it turns a definite green.

I have only tried to sand it off once and it didn't work the stuff really penetrates deep.

The place I tried to sand it off was the inside of a barrel channel.

I got as much off as I could and it was not enough.

I myself have quit using AF and have switched to iron nitrate - much easier to store, not as dangerous, color is about the same, easier to get.
 
Don't use unless you want a green stock :barf: it will happen over time and you won't be happy, Unless you want a green stock?
 
WOW! Why isn't this more well known? And why are they still selling it with no warning?
 
mazo kid said:
And why are they still selling it with no warning?

Well, it isn't the best business sense to put "Oh, by the way, this stuff actually turns wood green alot of the time" on the container. Won't sell much that way! :rotf:
 
The pros could tell you better but whenever I've read this being used, the builder used it in combination with other stains to achieve what he was looking for.

Those that used it alone complained of green stocks.
 
OK, I agree with you in that sense, but....sounds like they need a little more R&D so that unsuspecting users won't ruin their rifles.
 
...Please clarify this for me.

Is it both Maple Magic and aqua fortis that can turn a stock green???? or just the Maple Magic?

Thanks
 
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