• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Making paper cartridges-my solution

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Blackpowderart,
I looked up the Crossen tools, he has some nice tools on his site. I used to enjoy making stuff like that oak and brass one, I may have a future winter project there.
 
the only problem I had was getting the conicals to go in without bunching up the paper
 

Attachments

  • 58B578EA-DC26-4EFC-86B6-E9B3BC9E3C89.jpeg
    58B578EA-DC26-4EFC-86B6-E9B3BC9E3C89.jpeg
    3.8 MB · Views: 1
For ease of loading balls in the 1851 Navy .36 the sharp edge of the chamber mouth had been chamfered slightly so the ball swedged into the chamber and did not cut the lead ring. It also would not cut the paper on the bullet end on the cartridge and would not load.
I solved the paper cartridge problem with a Krist unmentionable in .38 Colt and shoot C&B with another guns snubbys preferably.
The bore was unchanged and can be shot as a C&B by simply swapping cylinders.
By the time it was finished iI had two guns for the price of three...as usual.
Bunk
 
I attend auctions, and every now and again there's an old book with laid paper, the real cotton and acid free stuff; if it's not a rare or valuable book, it's possible to use pages for wrapping musket cartridges. I won't use a Bible, of course, but that's sometimes what you see having the right paper. Never use a historical or valuable book, of course. Gotta use judgement on this.
 
I bought a kit a little while back and have made several hundred of them in .36 and .44 combined. Everything worked well except for putting in the ball. They would always kind of sit on top of the opening and it was a pain. It was made worse when I put some stick glue on the ball first as per instructions. What I did was wrap a piece of blue tape around the post of the former where the "rim" of the cartridge was. It allowed for a wider opening and it worked with the forming block perfectly. Now the ball slips into the cartridge and seats perfectly on the powder. I just got done making 50 cartridges in .36 and only had two of them give me any trouble and even those were easily taken care of. To secure them in the cartridge I used a little elmers glue, the glue stick didn't cooperate for this. This was my solution, your milage may vary. It's a lot more fun to plink with my 1851 and 1858 now.
I roll my papers over a marker. (Cut cigarette paper) I fold over the end, but leave an opening. I used pieces of nitrated paper to cover the end. 15grn. Powder, 15grn. C.O.W., I never added the ball in until this time around. I glued it. I usually just make a charge pscket & pack a lubed ball over it.. I bought that same kit. I'm anxious to try it.. mine take @45mi. To produce 10.. roling the paper is time consuming..
 

Attachments

  • 20230502_210348.jpg
    20230502_210348.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 0
I
How does the painters tape/wax paper, etc. burn up, as well as the "cigarette" papers? Is there more accumulation in the cylinders after firing?
I have read somewhere the original 1860s and 1862s cylinders and frames were actually opened up more with the intention of paper cartridge use...which makes sense. I wonder why the modern replicas dont follow that?
I also read that a trick in old days was to keep a hat pin handy, and after loading the paper cartridge insert the pin through the nipple to open up the cartridge base. I use a large safety pin on a ring, so I dont lose it, It seems to work well, no hangfires/etc. after about a hundred shots with paper cartridges so far.
Shoot cigarette paper, not all of it blows out the barrel, some stays smoldering in the chamber, & the amount of crud is terrible.. I load without any paper cartridge at the range.. paper cartridges & charges are for reloading if I carry 1 hunting...
 
It took a few mess ups to get in sync and still have few culls. But over all they come out pretty good. Started with the kit from Guns of the West and the provided papers. Went thru those and picked some Raw cigarette paper and just kept going.
 
It took a few mess ups to get in sync and still have few culls. But over all they come out pretty good. Started with the kit from Guns of the West and the provided papers. Went thru those and picked some Raw cigarette paper and just kept going.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6443.jpeg
    IMG_6443.jpeg
    848.5 KB · Views: 1
Plainsman,
Those are some good looking cartridges too! I need to get on the stick and make some cartridges. I've been making one piece tubes out of hair curler paper and twisting it over the ball. So far It's working pretty good, but I'm not done tinkering yet. Too many irons in the fire.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top