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And grease causes wood to deteriorate too. But, no matter - I don't use one anyway. I couldn't document them to my periods of interest, so I couldn't justify using the ones I made. Haven't missed them either....

On the other hand, I can see using linseed oil on a China cabinet. My finish for wood items is linseed oil, turpentine and beeswax (but not for gunstocks).

I rarely ever use one either, just something extra and dangly to carry. I try to keep bag as empty as possible lest I end up looking like the wife rummaging though her purse looking for something.

I use to use linseed oil, turpentine and spar varnish for gunstocks.( but not muzzleloaders)
 
I can't see the logic of using an inferior finish when, even in the period, they had discovered a better way (of finishing wood and using linseed oil). It seems to me like the gun-finishing equivalent of running up a steep, sandy hill - lots of effort expended for very little return...

BLO and your finish are PC/HC No argument there. I built my first muzzle loader 51 years ago and my son still has it. It was finished with BLO Its been out in all kinds of inclement weather. Its been rubbed down with all kinds of tallow, bear, coon, bear, bee's wax and any and every kind of oil. I have other guns that I have had for over forty years, finished in BLO, that have been treated the same way. The wood has never disintegrated and rotted away on any of them
NUFF SAID!!!
Jerry
 
I finish the outside of my loading blocks with Tru-oil and leave the holes bare wood, my mink oil patch lube will seal the holes. I actually bought the odd ball sized drill to make .54 blocks and have cranked out a bunch of them for my friends. The first one is crotch grain walnut, the second is osage.

View attachment 2179

.View attachment 2178

I counter bore mine. Self centers on muzzle.
Cheers,
RView attachment 2184

View attachment 2187 Linseed oil will never dry. It will make a good finish if polymerized, by either boiling, or adding dryers. Not worth the effort. Many, much better finishes out there.
Here's mine to go with my Lehigh.

Wow, those are some really sweet looking loading blocks! Very impressive! I will have to try making some with walnut and cherry, oak has open grain which doesn't look as nice and it's a hassle to fill the pores.
 
I’ve got one over thirty years old finished with linseed oil that looks brand new. BLO is a pia to put on but I’ve never had trouble with it. I find them handy for strings as it lets you know if you’ve shot three or four, hunting you have plenty of time to reload.
 
I find them handy for strings as it lets you know if you’ve shot three or four, .

That is very true, It can get confusing how many shots you've fired especially if you cant see holes in a target.
When I shot competition I never used one though, as I felt loading by hand gave me better accuracy, also, spit lube doesn't work well with loading blocks.
They are handy for woods walks though.
 
Loading blocks can certainly be convenient when it comes to reloads........for some. After I shoot I spill all my powder trying to charge the gun - I get excited - and seem never to get it right for the first or second try. I could wear boxing gloves and do about as well.
 
OK, folks, it looks like it is once again time for a post on modern and period wood finishes.

Besides the great info to the Muzzle Blasts column, here is a bit more on period finishes.

18th and 19th century BLO was not, I repeat NOT what you find in hardware stores today. They took Linseed Oil and warmed it and added japan dryers or other chemical dryers to it. That was period BLO. They also added varnish to different Oil Finish compounds as mentioned in that article, but that wasn’t period BLO.

Modern BLO has petroleum distillates in it that are not good for OIL finishes on gun stock wood, but OK for adding to paint, though not as good as period BLO was.

Since the 18th century way of making BLO was time consuming and expensive, in the 19th century they went to making “Kettle Boiled” and “Stand Oil” linseed oil to put in outdoor paint. In the 20th century, they began adding petroleum distillates to it.

You can build up many coats of modern BLO and by tests done by the U.S. Forestry Service, it will only barely slow down water getting into gun stocks outdoors in the rain. Their articles mention Raw/Plain Linseed Oil finish just waves as water and water vapor runs right through it. Matter of fact, the reason Springfield Armory (the REAL one) in Massachusetts used Raw Linseed oil up through 1903 stocks and even early M1 Garand stocks was so the wood would not DRY OUT too much and thus not "check" and "crack" as easily.

Actually, the closest thing to a period finish mentioned in the Muzzle Blasts article and is fairly easy to obtain ready-made is Modern Birchwood Casey’s Tru-Oil as it has varnish mixed in it. I can attest from having seen the effects on Okinawa, Hawaii, California and North Carolina; how good this stuff is at slowing down water vapor in wood gun stocks.

Now if you want to pretty much STOP water and water vapor from getting into the wood of your stock the longest amount of time for most finishes that would look good on ML guns, then you rub in Beeswax or other waxes over the Tru-Oil.

Dave Person and others have also mentioned another modern oil finish they like a little better than Tru-Oil and I hope Dave will chime in on that stuff. I haven’t used it, so I can’t comment on it.


Gus
 
I have not seen tung oil mentioned much. I like it and used it on my T/C Hawken stock for hunting, not for show.
MikeJW
 
Are you sure you didn't get raw linseed oil? I have several stocks finished in boiled linseed oil and then buffed with BriWax (cornea & beeswax mix). After filling the pores put a drop on the stock (or block) and rub it in with your bare hand. Cover all the wood and then repeat for about 12 coats. Time consuming but easy to maintain - just rub in a bit more.
Just as an FYI, I'd be real careful with Bri-wax. My wife is a folk artist and used it for years to distress soft sculpture characters and their clothing. It contains a lot of Toluene and it aggravated my asthma if she used even a very small amount of it in the house. The wax itself cautions you to use rubber or vinyl gloves with it and to be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after use. Works great but you do need to take precautions with it.

Twisted_1in66
Dan
 
Tru-Oil is my favorite but expensive. I like several layers of BLO followed by several layers of Tru-Oil. Saves money. But I am very patient about the BLO drying, it does take longer. I end with carnauba wax, but I know some of you hate the thought of killing those beautiful creatures. And I don't hunt in the rain, when it rains hard I stay inside. I target shoot under cover even in the rain. My finish seems to work for that. On drumsticks I just use BLO and wax, no Tru-Oil. But I sand up to 3000 grit! And I don't drum outside in the rain. Ever.
 
You all probably know this but a Tru-oil tip is to leave the foil seal on the bottle and punch a small pin hole in it to supply the finish when you need it. Store the bottle upside down as well, the small hole and upside down storage won't let the contents set up as quickly over time as a completely uncapped bottle.
 
There were some 1"x1" oak sticks in the scrap bin in our woodworking workshop, so I made this, and saves the rest for more.

get some Tri-oil gun stock finish. It's very durable and easy to use. BLO is not very durable and it will wear off besides to maintain a gun using BLO is a pain. I have a can of the stuff that is 35 years old and the stuff left on the outside of the can is like rubber...not hard. Something else to consider would be turpentine and beeswax mixed 50/50 . This will allow the wax to seep into the pores of the wood and harden
 
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Just as an FYI, I'd be real careful with Bri-wax. My wife is a folk artist and used it for years to distress soft sculpture characters and their clothing. It contains a lot of Toluene and it aggravated my asthma if she used even a very small amount of it in the house. The wax itself cautions you to use rubber or vinyl gloves with it and to be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after use. Works great but you do need to take precautions with it.

Twisted_1in66
Dan

I appreciate the heads up - but I am so far immune. Knock wood. Though hopefully it's not cumulative like epoxy fumes can be. I dab it on thick in brown and then a few black splotches on my shiny 60's era recurve hunting bows and let it dry to "camo" the bow, and then buff it back shiny after hunting season.
 
There were some 1"x1" oak sticks in the scrap bin in our woodworking workshop, so I made this, and saves the rest for more.

View attachment 2133
JbuBOBi
Nice job. I make these as well, I just make mine a little bit different. What Cals. do you make them in? Do you make anything else, just curious?
Two Feathers
 

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