flintlocker
32 Cal
There were some 1"x1" oak sticks in the scrap bin in our woodworking workshop, so I made this, and saves the rest for more.
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Made a reloading block today!
- Thread starter flintlocker
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Nice block! You going to stain it?
flintlocker
32 Cal
Thanks! I don't plan to use stain, I will just put a few coats of boil linseed oil and it will darken significantly. I used stain on my gun stock about a weak ago when I was finising the stock for a Hawken rifle kit, the thing I don't like is that the stain can still be rubbed off now. I think the stain is not designed to be solid enough so it can't be rubbed off, it is designed to have a top coat of varnish to protect it, but I was planning to use BLO only and not have a top coat...so hopefully the stain stops getting rubbed off after a few days. Did you guys have the problem of wood stain rubbing off? The stain I'm using is Varathane Wood Stain.
Black Hand
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Boiled linseed oil is a terrible finish for a gun. It takes a very long time to dry and is likely why your stain is rubbing off...
flintlocker
32 Cal
I have to disagree, BOL has been used as wood finish for centuries and is tried and true quality finish for gun stock. Yes it takes a long time to dry as you said, but I'm not in a hurry. As for the stain, I have a piece of wood that is rubbed in this stain before the stock, and no BLO, it still rubs off.
Better rethink that advice... Take that block out unsealed and with just BLO applied, those balls will be swelled in so tight a sledge hammer won't pop them loose. You need to seal the wood, beeswax is easily applied. Just because it's been used "forever" doesn't mean it's a fantastic finish because simply put it's not. Oak having open pores and grain It will suck up beeswax and seal the pores properly.
Also your stain rubs off because your likely not properly preparing the wood. Done right stain should not rub off, oil or water based alike. Or like BH said above you could be mixing a water base with a oil base (BLO) which is a no, no... Certainly can see that being another reason your stain rubs off.
Yet I disagree with you saying its a quality finish because simply put it's not... Permalyn sealer is for one a high quality finish which BLO can't even begin to compare. If you actually hunt in weather like I do a BLO finish will cause you big problems down the road. However, you certainly can do as you wish. Wonderful thing about a free country!
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Are you sure you didn't get raw linseed oil? I have several stocks finished in boiled linseed oil and then buffed with BriWax (cornea & beeswax mix). After filling the pores put a drop on the stock (or block) and rub it in with your bare hand. Cover all the wood and then repeat for about 12 coats. Time consuming but easy to maintain - just rub in a bit more.
Black Hand
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Perhaps linseed oil mixed with dryers (see period formulas) but linseed oil alone is a poor finish. Additionally, it isn't truly water-resistant and needs to be constantly maintained.
I previously posted a link to a site with recipes for period finishes.
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Black Hand
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flintlocker
32 Cal
Aha! That's an interesting read! Thanks!
I will wait for the linseed oil to dry, and then coat it with shellac followed by beeswax. It will turn out nicely.
Here's all my muzzleloading stuff right now. I'm having so much fun making muzzleloading accessories LOL.
I'm making a powder flask out of wood and milling a pair of peep sights out of aluminum because the factory sights are some truly horrible quality plastic thingy and is supposed to be mounted halfway on the barrel which gives it a shorter sight radius for no good reason...I have some pretty neat ideas for making the bullet starter, and I plan to integrate a powder measure into the grip of the bullet starter. And of course, above all, I'm really looking forward to actually firing this thing and report back to yall XD.
I finish the outside of my loading blocks with Tru-oil and leave the holes bare wood, my mink oil patch lube will seal the holes. I actually bought the odd ball sized drill to make .54 blocks and have cranked out a bunch of them for my friends. The first one is crotch grain walnut, the second is osage.
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jackley
40 Cal.
I'm with stump on this, I have three guns that are finished in BLO very time consuming for sure for 12 to 15 coats, but is a very nice finish. And after waxing my guns. they have been out in all types of weather, sometimes for two weeks at a time. Rub em with tallow , oil or wax there fine. You have to care for the metal on your guns don't you. It takes no more time to wipe down the wood.
Jerry
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What did your use to put the caliber numbers on the blocks?
MikeJW
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Here's mine to go with my Lehigh.
As long as you seat the ball so it protrudes slightly it will self center on it's own.
I have to say, I think that is the cutest loading block I have ever seen.
Black Hand
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I can't see the logic of using an inferior finish when, even in the period, they had discovered a better way (of finishing wood and using linseed oil). It seems to me like the gun-finishing equivalent of running up a steep, sandy hill - lots of effort expended for very little return...
It's a loading block not a china cabinet. It's going to get all greasy from patched balls anyway.
Black Hand
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And grease causes wood to deteriorate too. But, no matter - I don't use one anyway. I couldn't document them to my periods of interest, so I couldn't justify using the ones I made. Haven't missed them either....
On the other hand, I can see using linseed oil on a China cabinet. My finish for wood items is linseed oil, turpentine and beeswax (but not for gunstocks).
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