Looking For Recommendations For a 1740's Fusil

[Ret. Light Infantry Guy]

I am expecting a 1740's Light Fusil (578) from TRS in the next few weeks. This will be my first build. I am looking for recommendations on the best/most accurate finish for the F&I War era. Should I Brown, Blue or leave it in the White? How Should I (or should I) stain this tiger maple stock to be appropriate? I did also order the stock from TRS, so I have something to copy. I intend on using this for a F&I War Light Infantry or Ranger persona. Any and all recommendations will be appreciated, thanks.

 

[tenngun]

I am expecting a 1740's Light Fusil (578) from TRS in the next few weeks. This will be my first build. I am looking for recommendations on the best/most accurate finish for the F&I War era. Should I Brown, Blue or leave it in the White? How Should I (or should I) stain this tiger maple stock to be appropriate? I did also order the stock from TRS, so I have something to copy. I intend on using this for a F&I War Light Infantry or Ranger persona. Any and all recommendations will be appreciated, thanks.View attachment 203677

Sorry to say that’s the ugliest TFC I’ve ever seen
Trade guns for Fand I generally were on walnut or beech. However guns got restocked in America. A restocked gun May have mismatched parts, so you don’t have to go 100% on parts, but do need to go 100% in style.
IMHO it will look best dark
The metal should be left white or French grey. Brown wasn’t really a thing in the eighteenth century. Blueing was known but for some reason blue barrels on an ml doesn’t look ‘right’

 

[Ret. Light Infantry Guy]

I was thinking a darker look similar to a Bess would look great, but not sure what to use and how to bring out the figure with a darker stain.

 

[Shortfat1]

I built mine from the prints sold on Track of the Wolf. It’s a great reference to follow. As for the metal finish I used cold bluing and scotch brite it back until I had a natural looking patina. A darker finish than mine would probably be more period correct.

 

[Ret. Light Infantry Guy]

I built mine from the prints sold on Track of the Wolf. It’s a great reference to follow. As for the metal finish I used cold bluing and scotch brite it back until I had a natural looking patina. A darker finish than mine would probably be more period correct.

Looks Beautiful! Do you remember the brand of the cold bluing that you used?

 

[Shortfat1]

Looks Beautiful! Do you remember the brand of the cold bluing that you used?

Yes it was Birchwood Casey Super Blue. It’s very easy to use and after several coats scotch brighted back you can get the patina you’re looking for. I also recommend a lindseed oil heat finish to preserve the look and protect the barrel when you’re done.

 

[Rudyard]

Well the curly maple is better suited to some other gun .Plain walnut be more likely .I think when new they would be bright barrel but it will mellow & expect Rangers preferred the darker look if you have or can get a copy of D W Baille's ' Pattern Dates' book it gives good coverage of such arms . Or his ' British military long arms 'book if you can find a copy . What TRS sent you no idea , but shouldn't be iron mounts .
Regards Rudyard

 

[Shortfat1]

Well the curly maple is better suited to some other gun .Plain walnut be more likely .I think when new they would be bright barrel but it will mellow & expect Rangers preferred the darker look if you have or can get a copy of D W Baille's ' Pattern Dates' book it gives good coverage of such arms . Or his ' British military long arms 'book if you can find a copy . What TRS sent you no idea , but shouldn't be iron mounts .
Regards Rudyard

I’m well aware of the original walnut stocks. However, many were restocked. And I never cleaned that my gun was a period coropiece. My comment was in reference to the metal finish.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Agreed, it would not be maple. Cold blue - any- and rub back to be French Grey. Take wood off the stock, do it again, and again ... and then you think you ruined it - you're done. There should be no more wood than absolutely necessary. Trim, trim, trim and light she should be.

 

[Ret. Light Infantry Guy]

I guess I'm looking for something like this. Maybe a little darker. How best to achieve this? The first is the 1775-dated Oerter rifle from Valley Forge and the second is in the Met, a circa 1740–50 flintlock attributed to Sergeant John Dean of the Continental Army.