• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Knapping hammer

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Little brass hammer works for me. I've heard it said that it's hard on the lockwork but light taps should be all you need for the job anyway.
Less chance of taking a cut too. Trust me.

wm
 
As a knapper of arrowheads I will admit to not quite understanding the proper use of a knapping hammer. Attempting to strike flakes off the gun flint as one would normally do from a spall or preform in traditional knapping seemed awkward and ineffective. That was until reading the product description at TOW. I never would have thought of using the little hammer this way.

"Place the hammer at half-cock, and gently strike the front edge of the flint, square-on. This straight-on blow chips the upper and lower edges of the front edge, revealing a sharper edge. "

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/111/1/HAMMER-FLINT
 
As a knapper of arrowheads I will admit to not quite understanding the proper use of a knapping hammer. Attempting to strike flakes off the gun flint as one would normally do from a spall or preform in traditional knapping seemed awkward and ineffective. That was until reading the product description at TOW. I never would have thought of using the little hammer this way.

"Place the hammer at half-cock, and gently strike the front edge of the flint, square-on. This straight-on blow chips the upper and lower edges of the front edge, revealing a sharper edge. "

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/111/1/HAMMER-FLINT
The operative word is "gently".

wm
 
If you need a knapping hammer, get a classy one - any smiths out there who'd like to recreate this? Supposed to be Afghan. Flintlock combo tool.
But for practical purposes, take the flint out of the hammer for safety and convenience, and pressure flake a new edge on it with a nail or carefully trim with small hammer. Easy.
Afghan maybe.JPG
 
Thanks, it gives me a starting point.
The pressure flake tools work by pushing inward and downward on the edge thus using pressure alone to pop off a small row of flakes without the necessary impact that is required by most other tools , which causes fracturing in the flint. You have far more control of shape and depth than you ever can have by any other method.
Pressure flaking can be done with the flint still in the cock but is more effective and precise with the flint removed and on a leather or wood surface to support the edge.
You will quickly notice how it is not only much easier to level and sharpen an edge but also to maintain the corners which gives more frontal area to spark against the frizzen face. The corners of the flint face are almost universally the first casualties of impact tool use.
Pressure flaking will often double the life of your flints simply because it is less destructive.
Also , a level pressure flake edge, with it's accompanying flake row scarps between the flakes, is a much stronger and easier edge to sharpen than is the arbitrary shaped edge provided by impact tools. The scarp points are what actually make contact with the frizzen and wear back. The warn back scarp points become the platforms for the next row of flakes when you sharpen again. The next row of flakes will be positioned higher on the edge face than was the previous row which strikes a different place on the frizzen . This lengthens frizzen face life as well by discouraging groove cutting into it as each new row moves upward and is higher on the edge. When it gets higher than your gun likes it is simply flipped over and you start the process again continually moving the impact area on the fizzen face.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top