Kibler colonial

[deerstalkert]

Just talk with the Kibler folks and return the stock for a replacement. Surely, they will see the flaw and replace the stock.

there is no flaw! just a potential for a problem.
when i posted the advice i was in no way criticizing the stock, the op or Jim Kibler.
what we have is a lot of information given should the OP want or need it, over the last 60 or so years that i have butcher wood, i have seen enough of them break, sometimes during the build to offer some advice in advance of the "Oh poop" moment.
personally i would have bought that piece of wood any day and twice on sunday!

 

[¡Señor.Casualidad!]

there is no flaw! just a potential for a problem.
when i posted the advice i was in no way criticizing the stock, the op or Jim Kibler.
what we have is a lot of information given should the OP want or need it, over the last 60 or so years that i have butcher wood, i have seen enough of them break, sometimes during the build to offer some advice in advance of the "Oh poop" moment.
personally i would have bought that piece of wood any day and twice on sunday!

I'm very excited to get working on it! I will be posting all kinds of photos as I go, And I appreciate all the advice and opinions everyone has thrown into the mix!

 

[FlinterNick]

After reading this first page, I am going to suggest (if someone hasn't yet) that a call to Jim would be a great move with questions about the wrist area and weakness. Jim has built many gunstocks and is maybe the best judge on stock strength.

Not sayin that an extra strength pre-fix is not a grand idea, but twer it me, a conversation directly with Jim would be my first go to.

Just sayin

Jim already addressed it, read above.

 

[FlinterNick]

there is no flaw! just a potential for a problem.
when i posted the advice i was in no way criticizing the stock, the op or Jim Kibler.
what we have is a lot of information given should the OP want or need it, over the last 60 or so years that i have butcher wood, i have seen enough of them break, sometimes during the build to offer some advice in advance of the "Oh poop" moment.
personally i would have bought that piece of wood any day and twice on sunday!

One has to ask the question, if you want a premium stock, why settle for one of lesser quality? Especially when it was disclosed in the sale.

I mean if you’re gonna buy a lesser quality cut, and then put work into it to reinforce it, why not just spend the extra 150 - 200 for a walnut stock with no runout ?

 

[¡Señor.Casualidad!]

One has to ask the question, if you want a premium stock, why settle for one of lesser quality? Especially when it was disclosed in the sale.

I mean if you’re gonna buy a lesser quality cut, and then put work into it to reinforce it, why not just spend the extra 150 - 200 for a walnut stock with no runout ?

The honest answer flinternick is I'm a cheap p@#$k! I've been ogling over these kiblers for months now and for the first time I saw one at a (compared to the previous sale prices I've seen) significant discount and I snatched it up! Prior to this the most I've ever spent on a new gun was $600 and it took me 10years of shooting to work up to that!
Edit: really it came down to the fact that for me the potential negative didn't outweigh the garenteed positive.
Basically if I were to do the repair it would take an hour or less minus cure time for the epoxy. so I veiw it as me getting paid $245 (the discount) to add an hour to the build time

 

[¡Señor.Casualidad!]

The honest answer flinternick is I'm a cheap p@#$k! I've been ogling over these kiblers for months now and for the first time I saw one at a (compared to the previous sale prices I've seen) significant discount and I snatched it up! Prior to this the most I've ever spent on a new gun was $600 and it took me 10years of shooting to work up to that!
Edit: really it came down to the fact that for me the potential negative didn't outweigh the garenteed positive.
Basically if I were to do the repair it would take an hour or less minus cure time for the epoxy. so I veiw it as me getting paid $245 (the discount) to add an hour to the build time

Sometimes my """logic"""" goes over my own head

 

[Jedidiah]

Tempest in a tea cup! Jim Kibler already stated very clearly that the stock was less than perfect hence the discount. he also stated that he would do NOTHING to the stock but stain and finish it. He opined that the chance of it breaking would take a pretty hard fall at just the right angle etc,etc, etc. The stock has very nice grain etc. Finish it, build the rifle, enjoy it!!

 

[Rebel bull]

3/8 would be ok but even a 3/16th or 1/4 would work without removing to much wood. what i do is make a groove in the side of the rod, that way the epoxy wont be forced out of the hole when you insert the rod.
others with better functioning brains will chime in soon.

I agree 110% but I use running thread instead rod and run it from the butt into the barrel channel

 

[BadDaditood]

It’s entertaining when people post without reading all- or Any- posts
Annoying but entertaining!

 

[Mike in FL]

The more I look at it the more I'm convinced the stock is fine. You need no added steps to strengthen it. You are like me: I get concerned about something, then worried, then start trying to make it better, when in fact the thing needed nothing. If it ain't broke . . .

 

[¡Señor.Casualidad!]

I did my cherry woodsrunner with Minwax. The deciding factor for me was letting a quarter-sized puddle dry on a piece of glass. It actually dried in a few days as thick as it was, and more importantly wrinkled up showing proper expansion as a result of actual polymerization even though the oil is thinned with solvents, and it was quite tough and hard so has a good resin content. It doesn't build fast which is great for hand-rubbing, the stock drinks up that first coat really well, and it can be very lightly sanded after a couple of days if there are any rough spots. In a way it acts like sanding sealer.

Normally I use a home-made boiled linseed oil varnish using a quality linseed base and processing it with heat and lime, adding natural driers and resins if I want shiny, no resins if I want an oil finish. With my WR I was in a hurry and that Minwax stuff did the trick quite nicely. I suspect it would be great for sealing and rigidizing detailed carving work because it really penetrates the wood surface and gets nice and hard without shrinking like polyurethanes do.

Did you also use miwax "antique oil finnish"?

 

[IanH]

Did you also use miwax "antique oil finnish"?

Yes. Not my preferred finish but it has its place.

 

[¡Señor.Casualidad!]

Yes. Not my preferred finish but it has its place.

What's your opinion on permalyn sealer. Everything I hear is its very simple and easy to use, and you could use tung oil or blo over it to make touching up the finish easier
Edit: I've read too much about all this really I would like an opinion/experience on an easier to apply and easier to touch up/maintain finish.
Which finishes are the most forgiving?

 

[¡Señor.Casualidad!]

She is on the way!!!!

 

[IanH]

What's your opinion on permalyn sealer. Everything I hear is its very simple and easy to use, and you could use tung oil or blo over it to make touching up the finish easier
Edit: I've read too much about all this really I would like an opinion/experience on an easier to apply and easier to touch up/maintain finish.
Which finishes are the most forgiving?

It's thinned polyurethane and has no place on longrifles. That's my opinion, wirth exactly what you paid for it.

I prefer a polymerizing oil finish or varnish like linseed or tung oil because it expands as it cures rather than shrinking like urethanes do. Hard, shrinking finishes that dry fast and dry on top of the wood rather than in the wood don't last as long and aren't as easy to repair as drying oil finishes.

 

[Mike in FL]

It's thinned polyurethane and has no place on longrifles. That's my opinion, wirth exactly what you paid for it.

I prefer a polymerizing oil finish or varnish like linseed or tung oil because it expands as it cures rather than shrinking like urethanes do. Hard, shrinking finishes that dry fast and dry on top of the wood rather than in the wood don't last as long and aren't as easy to repair as drying oil finishes.

I've been using polyurethane for years on different items to include wooden arrows and gun stocks. Never have I known it to shrink or peel. The only place it doesn't hold up is wooden articles that stay outside permanently.

 

[Mike in FL]

The "flaw" was fully disclosed and I was aware of it at the time of purchase. Now it's become a forum kenundrum of whether to do a preliminary "fix" or just leave it be. I think I'll just leave it be. Plus if it were to Crack I could try my hands at something Like this!!!!

Yes. How many originals have we seen with that fix?

 

[Mike in FL]

Just talk with the Kibler folks and return the stock for a replacement. Surely, they will see the flaw and replace the stock.

Not a flaw!

 

[Mike in FL]

Personally i would leave it and let it break if and when what ill fate takes a left turn for the worse.

Then make a piece of art work with wrist repair.

I’ve reinforced Ferguson rifles with a steel shim beneath the lock area, but generally the design of that rifle is very fragile in that area, especially if there no arca glass on it for support.

Your method beneath the tang bolt I’ve done for Indian musket wrist breaks, i drilled all the way through the butt plate and epoxied it in place with epoxy in the threads.

It won't break. Lots of people getting excited over a non issue.

 

[LongWalker]

She is on the way!!!!

Congrats on getting a rifle you wanted!