Inletting Barrels

Anybody out there ever try using a router to inlet a barrel into Curly Maple? I think it would probably rip out the channel because of the grain structure. I read somewhere that a router can speed up inletting a barrel. After you clear most othe channel you can fine-fit the barrel by hand the old-fashoned way.

 

[musketman]

I would be afraid that the high speed bit might scortch the fancy woods used in custom stocks...

If I were to do this, I would use a NEW bit, don't want to take a chance of splintering or splitting any high priced timber...

 

[Rancocas]

I haven't yet, but I'm getting ready to try it.
I'm making a "chunkgun". The .45 caliber barrel is a full 48 inches long, and 1 1/8 inches across the flats. This will be a hard working, bench rest, target rifle, so I'm not interested in fancy wood. I'm using a very plain piece of maple, so hopefully the router won't hit any extra hard spots.
But, first I have to finish building my woodstrip canoe. (It is about half done) Then, I have to refurbish my old aluminum fishing boat, and overhaul the outboard, before spring gets here. By then it will be spring turkey season. Shoot! its gonna be summer before I can get to the chunkgun.

 

[Haggis]

It's just me, but I think the way to go is a few high quality chisels and a Stanley #45 plane. I have just about every power tool under the sun, but I find myself reaching for hand tools when the cuts are critical. I think a fellow can get a nearly "new in the box" #45 for about $200 on Ebay, and probably find some good chisels there too.

A router will hog out the wood in a hurry, but I've known folks to channel right on out the side of their stock too.

 

[Darkhorse]

I sure wouldn't want to try inletting an expensive piece of curly maple with router. That stuff is way to particular. Hidden knots can be real hard. And the stuff will flake off with no warning.
If I tried it, it would only be with a razor sharp cutter and with some kind of guides built to control the router.
I saw a pantograph type deal that worked with a router on a website www.woodcarversupply.com I think that was the site.
I was thinking if you had a good barrel channel in a blank then you could use that as a pattern to inlet others from. Maybe even 2 pieces of wood clamped to a table the right distance apart could serve as a rudimentary pattern for a straight barrel.

 

[Chuck Deaton]

The key to using a router is control and control is acheived several ways. 1. Small router 2. sharp carbide bit. 3. Small cuts 4. template.

I use a router kit made for a Dremel moto tool and set it up so that the template guides the cut and I make lots of passes.

Another tool that is useful is a Forstner bit and a small drill press.

 

[Zonie]

I have used a standard size router with a guide (or fence) attached to it to rough out the barrel channel. I was cutting #4 Curly Maple.

This was really aimed at getting most of the wood out of the channel, not the finishing of it.

The thing to keep in mind though is the barrel channel was the first cut I made on this stock (after planeing the surfaces) so there was a LOT of wood around it to minimize the effects of chipping and take the side pressure of the cutter.
I was using a brand new carbide bit and taking LOTS of passes, increasing the depth only about 1/16 per pass. I also moved it only fast enough to keep a good cut going. Not to fast, not too slow.

I could not cut the full octagon channel so I plowed out the center almost to full depth. Then reset the fence to make the "side cuts". These I cut just deep enough for the side flats of the barrel to sit down in like the would when the channel was finished. (Hard to explain but I hope you know what I mean).
The 45 degree cuts and the final finishing was done with sharp chisels.

If the stock blank was nearly finished on the outside before the barrel channel was started, I don't think I would risk using a router.

 

[Haggis]

Zonie
I hear what you're saying but the thought of turning all of those rpm's loose shivels my cajonies. Your mentioning cutting shy of the line did make me think though; I have a mortise machine for cutting housed mortises and the like; it basically drills square holes. I bet a fellow could just take some time and walk the stock through from one end to the other and cut out most of the wood without the intense moments a router can give.

Just a thought but I may try that on my next barrel inletting.

 

[gordy]

I've inletted stocks with all hand tools.but the Dremel tool with the router attachment really makes the job go faster and smoother,main thing is razor sharp bits and good clamping and guide set-up.I just got a full size router for Xmas, and intend to give it a try on my next inletting job. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif Gordy

 

[jrdavis]

I have a couple of video from Hersel House...He uses a shaper with special cut bit; makes two passes..with that in mind you might mount your router in a table and use finger boards..you also need to keep in mind the cast off and cheek rest at the butt end

 

[Randy]

If you have access to a table saw you can get a lot of the wood out without too much risk. Use a small blade, 7 1/4" diameter, and be careful to mark where to stop short of the breech area. By adjusting the depth several times and moving the fence after each pass you can do most of the inletting for an octagon barrel. Make sure to check depth and position of cut on a piece of scrapwood as you work. you can even add a cast to the stock by shimming out the stock blank away from the fence on one end.
A router may work if mounted on a table with a good fence. Something to keep in mind however is all the time spent setting up and checking things on your power tools could be spent to get a good start on inletting the barrel with hand tools. If one little thing goes wrong with the table saw or router it will likely cost you the stock.