Router

[Crow#21957]

Has anyone here used a router on a barrel channel or other? My concern is what speed to use and should the wood end grain be wetted with alcohol? Does a grade 3 curly maple chip out bad? I would think with a sharp bit and fast speed it wouldn't be as bad as tapping a chissel in the wood.I was planning on only going 1/8 to3/16 deep on each pass or is 1/4 to much. I would only do a path from breech to muzzel and only as wide as the top flat.Then go about 1/4deep and the profile of the barrel. My brother has been a trim and cabinet guy at a hospital for 40 years. It's amazing the work he can perform. He could hand build a roll top oak desk that would look like it came from a oak gallery.

 

[hawkeye2]

It's been many years now but there have been several posts on here about using routers for barrel channels. There were some pretty ingenious ideas like setting up guides for the router to cut the barrel channel. You might try a search and good luck.

 

[TDM]

With a good router, the correct bit, and proper guides, yes. And you don’t cut it all on one pass either.

 

[Crow#21957]

Thanks both of you. TDM only a dummy would try all in one pass.LOL

 

[Rob M.]

I helped Mr. Cordray a few weeks ago with setting up a router cut for his stock he was trying to finish quick for a show . I set it to cut 3/8" deep ..... The rest of the way was hand bedded down ., just gets rid of a lot of the dead wood and is nice because it keeps the barrel centered . Breach end first then work toward the muzzle ...... This set up , if I can find the pic , is good for warped stocks ....keeps the router straight..Mark center on stock and shim the angle till the bit is center at both ends , then start cutting using angle as a guide

 

[Col. Batguano]

The vertical side flats are going to be what's seen the most, and are most critical from a visual point of view. A lot of guys use routers and guides to cut those (with a swamped barrel), the bottom flat and obliques at the barrel's thinnest point. Basically, roughing it in. It's all (SHARP!) hand tools from there on swamped and tapered barrels.

 

[Jaeger]

Measure thrice, cut once!

 

[ZUG]

Some people also use a table saw for the job.

 

[Crow#21957]

That's what I had in mind. I really didn't plan on cutting the sides right up to the line maybe 3/32 to 1/8 approximately. And finish those by hand also. Does tgat sound like the way to go? Thanks

 

[Crow#21957]

Table saw can be done.good sharp gatto blade.

 

[HSmithTX]

Notice that all these are being done in blanks, the ones guys are talking about. There is a LOT of wood left to support the cut in a blank.

 

[Scota@4570]

A router can go very wrong in a split second.

I use a milling machine with an octagonal cutter. That gets about 98% of it.

 

[Crow#21957]

Thanks. scota@4570

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Has anyone here used a router on a barrel channel or other? My concern is what speed to use and should the wood end grain be wetted with alcohol? Does a grade 3 curly maple chip out bad? I would think with a sharp bit and fast speed it wouldn't be as bad as tapping a chissel in the wood.I was planning on only going 1/8 to3/16 deep on each pass or is 1/4 to much. I would only do a path from breech to muzzel and only as wide as the top flat.Then go about 1/4deep and the profile of the barrel. My brother has been a trim and cabinet guy at a hospital for 40 years. It's amazing the work he can perform. He could hand build a roll top oak desk that would look like it came from a oak gallery.

My first build was a Curly Maple blank for a 42" X 13/16" straight octogon barrel. My mentor riflesmith told me to use a 13/16" Irwin spade drill bit and modify it by diagonal cutting off the bottom ends. I did as he said and tried the bit out on a sample chunk of wood. Woorked like a champ. The key for using a router in my experience is this: Work is firmly mounted in a good vice with no obstructions to make a complete pass at each depth you are doing. Have a sharp bit, go slow, making sure the bit is cutting, not burning, and take it down in shallow passes. When you start a pass......make sure the router base is on top of the work, with the adjustable fence against the stock,( this may be difficult if there is not a little extra length to the stock) and the bit away from the wood when you start the router. Starting the router causes torque which in turn causes the router to twist. (a big ouch if bit against the wood) Once the router is running, then start your entry into the wood. When you get to the end, turn off the router before you remove it from the work. When making your pass down the the cut, make sure you are going in the direction that causes the bit to pull the router to the work, and not pushing away from the work. All router experienced craftsmen know about which direction to go, but a newbie may or may not.

High router bit speed, slow router move speed, for me. I have never used alcohol, on wood, except a beer after the cut.

Larry

 

[Sam squanch]

I’ve hogged out barrel channels with forstner bits and a drill press. Then finished with a special plane I made. If you use a router, use a sharp new bit and go SLOW. Rig up a clamp so you can attach a vacuum hose to the router, or get someone to vacuum with the hose as you go. And use ear protection, the whining of that thing will get on your nerves.

 

[sdilts]

Here's my router set-up for doing swamped barrels. Lay the barrel on top of the blank and clamp 3/8" rails to it. Screw the rails to the blank. Use a 1/2" V-shaped bit with a 1/2" collar to route the channel. I take very shallow cuts. Sometimes I use a 1/4" straight bit to route the channel to depth first but you don't have to. The pictures below show this. Do a little scraping and square up the breech end and you're done. It takes me about 4 hours to get the barrel in.