I ruined my Renegade stock (Bummer)

[cranky]

I just recently purchased a excellent condition Renegade 50 cal. There was nothing wrong with it. Everything worked as it should. Bright shiney bore, not a mark on the stock. I started reading some (old) posts on this and other sites about switching out the T/C lock for a L&R RPL lock (cap lock). So I ordered one from Track of the wolf got it delivered in 2 days. Waited till my day off to do the swap. It came with some generic directions that I think was geared more towards a flint lock. Well anyways I had all the items/tools they recommended to do the job. I thought all I needed was to take some wood away to make room for the main spring. I was chiseling out alittle at a time....a little more....then all of a sudden I was too heavy handed and split the stock a good 6" Damn! some of you proberly heard me :rotf: After swearing and cursing everything that came to mind. I figured OK...I will continue to try and fit this lock. Use it as a practise piece so to speak. I finish the channel for the spring then a little more wood off here, then there. I was using inlet "blacking" to show where I needed to remove some wood. Next thing I know I cracked it in another spot again :cursing: manure I am useless! I never inleted a lock before but figured I wouldn't have to take to much wood (L&R does call it a "replacement" lock... no?) It was all my fault I was too quick and too heavy handed. Lessoned learned. Now I need to check ebay or the classifieds for a new stock. thanks for listening, I just needed to rant.

Regards,
Dread

 

Hang on, Dread not, all may not be lost. Where does the crack start and where does it go to?.

Cody

 

[cranky]

Hello Cody,

The first crack starts about mid lock pocket and follows the grain (straight towards the muzzle)for about 4" and angles up across the grain another 2" right into the barrel flats. The second crack is a tight split/crack about an 1 1/2" heading straight for the butt. I am disgusted.

Dread

 

[roundball]

I just recently purchased a excellent condition Renegade 50 cal. There was nothing wrong with it. Everything worked as it should. Bright shiney bore, not a mark on the stock. I started reading some (old) posts on this and other sites about switching out the T/C lock for a L&R RPL lock (cap lock). So I ordered one from Track of the wolf got it delivered in 2 days. Waited till my day off to do the swap. It came with some generic directions that I think was geared more towards a flint lock. Well anyways I had all the items/tools they recommended to do the job. I thought all I needed was to take some wood away to make room for the main spring. I was chiseling out alittle at a time....a little more....then all of a sudden I was too heavy handed and split the stock a good 6" Damn! some of you proberly heard me :rotf: After swearing and cursing everything that came to mind. I figured OK...I will continue to try and fit this lock. Use it as a practise piece so to speak. I finish the channel for the spring then a little more wood off here, then there. I was using inlet "blacking" to show where I needed to remove some wood. Next thing I know I cracked it in another spot again :cursing: manure I am useless! I never inleted a lock before but figured I wouldn't have to take to much wood (L&R does call it a "replacement" lock... no?) It was all my fault I was too quick and too heavy handed. Lessoned learned. Now I need to check ebay or the classifieds for a new stock. thanks for listening, I just needed to rant.
Regards,
Dread

Dread, it is a shame that the stock got damaged...and is the main reason I won't let myself get involved with any woodworking beyond sawing a 2 x 4 in half...:grin:.

And, to add insult to injury...that RPL reference is very, very old news...TC redesigned their locks years ago now and they're outstanding...hasn't been a need to even consider an RPL replacement lock for a long, long time.

 

Hmmmm, the crack going forward is easily fixed wouldn't concern me (assuming i understand it properly). The one splitting to the rear could be a problem as these off the rack guns often have the grain running straight back though the wrist and this crack could very well come out the back of the wrist. can you open up these cracks by twisting the stock a bit?

 

[cranky]

Hello Roundball....yup, I had no need to replace the lock it was working fine. The "Newbie" that I am I figured a new lock would make my Renegade a little more special alittle different than most...yeah right...I should have listened to my own advice...I used to be a heating mechanic and I always told my customers the old cliche "if it ain't broke don't fix it"

Oh well.....next time :grin:

Dread

 

[cranky]

Thanks Cody for trying to help. I can "open" the large crack but the small one, No.

Thanks for your help,

Dread

 

Does the small crack go past the confines of the lock mortice?. The longer crack i suspect is threatening to break the wood above the nose of the lock right off?

 

[cranky]

Yes....The small crack extends about 1 1/4" outside the lock pocket. and yes again the larger crack has greatly weakened the wood area you mention. The wood is not very thick at all, with the ramrod hole and barrel flats and all factory inletting for the stock lock. You need the hands of a micro surgeon and the patience of a Saint to do this work :grin:

Dread

 

So, it's kinda tough without the gun to look at BUT, this is what i would do if it's the way I understand it. You will need a small block of wood, super glue, white carpenters glue, a syringe (I get them from a friend whoes daughter is diabetic) and some surgical tubing. The super glue is for the rear crack. For the forward one, take the block of wood and file/rasp it so that it fits in the barrel channel but, when sitting on the slope of the oblique flats, it does not protrude above the top of the barrel channel. This wood is so the side of the stock doesn't colapse into the barrel channel. Now, fill the syringe with white carpenters glue, open the crack a bit and stick the needle right in there and fill the crack completely, end to end. Don't worry about it squeezing out, it's easy to clean up. Then stick the block of wood in the barrel channel. It needs to be long enough to go from the end of the wood, where the nipple bolster is, to the end of the crack. So once you have the glue injected into the crack and the block in place, THEN flood the other crack with super glue. Try to get as much glue into the crack as possible. Then wrap the whole thing with the surgical tubing starting an inch back from the rear crack and wrap it all the way past the end of the forward crack. Let stand 1 hour. The forward crack doesn't realy have any stress agianst it and the rear crack, while may get stressed abit from recoil, has alot of sound wood yet. Personally, for what they sell for on ebay. I'ld just get another stock, however, the repair would be fun and educational :grin: Ideally, if you going to keep this stock you would be wise to put cross pins in the rear repair as well.

 

[Pahaska]

This may not help you and your stock,(which can probably be fixed), but, for fine detail wood work, I have found nothing better than a dremeltool, and the #650 1/8" straight router bit. I prefer the variable speed dremel. Hang on tight, it'll sometimes try to "walk" out of your cut, but it doesn't split wood like a chisel. A syringe and some good Elmers carpenters wood glue can probably fix your problem. Shoot it in and wrap it tight with string. When it's dried, pull the string off and sand it back smooth. You probably won't be able to see the "fix". You can perform miracles with wood with a little time and effort. Pahaska

Sorry about that Cody, I hadn't read your reply when I wrote mine. Sounds like we're likeminded on the fix.

 

[xxgrampa]

hi ho dread, (if i may call you dread?)

if you are going to try a repair. only one more thing you may try in addition to the good advice you have already been blessed with. is to use compressed air to blow the glue into the cracks. it is the best way to get glue all the way to the end of the cracks..

good luck and ..ttfn..grampa..

 

[Stony]

Well Dread, you have a chance to make your Renegade look more PC now. Get some rawhide (dog chew bones can be used) and get it wet. While it's wet you can wrap it around the break and where it might break AFTER using the glue suggestions given above amd making sure the rawhide will not interfere with the functioning/shooting of your rifle. Then stich it up and let it dry. :hatsoff:

 

[faw3]

Do they make one with out all the junk on the lock plate (?in grave ing?) ??Id like just a smooth side lockplate. And Id be happy to figure out why my white wood RENG takes stain except for about 2"X2" it turns black?? :hmm: Fred :hatsoff: (sorry about your stock if I ever get a fullstock I'll be letting this one go, also should ad Dem tools are great but every good stock maker has told me never use one just one slip and your work is history,I do use mine on parts that cant be seen or ruined and on slow, very slow.)

 

[MikeC]

If your going to look for a new stock give these guys a call. They make stocks for the T/C Hawken and Renegade parts, half and full stock that are more PC than the originals.
[url] http://www.longrifles-pr.com[/url]/

 

[TANSTAAFL]

The first step in becoming proficient, is learning how to correct your mistakes.

All is not lost and things are seldom bad as they first appear.

Throttle down and back off, evaluate the situation, plan out repairs (for every action, there is a reaction) and take one step at a time.

 

[lanedh]

Cody:

A solid practical approach to a difficult situation. If I may add something to your suggestion: the last time I had to reglue a split-out piece of the forearm, I shaped a piece of scrap wood to fit the barrel channel where the split-out was, but gave it a lip over the top of the section to be glued, so that when I clamped it the pressure was applied both laterally and vertically, keeping the split-out piece from migrating.

Not seeing the actual shape of the piece to be glued, this may not be a good thing for the application at hand, but I have used this several times with white glue and it always worked. Also I was sure to put a piece of Saran wrap between the wood form and the glued area so they weren't bonded together when the glue dried. The white glue won't adhere to the plastic film and can't get to the form.

Brgds, BJ
(and success to Dreadnought!)

 

Cody:

the last time I had to reglue a split-out piece of the forearm, I shaped a piece of scrap wood to fit the barrel channel where the split-out was, but gave it a lip over the top of the section to be glued, so that when I clamped it the pressure was applied both laterally and vertically, keeping the split-out piece from migrating.

That's a great idea. I hadn't considered that as i would be concerned that the wood block would crush the delicate edge of the forestock. I failed to consider that this is a TC and therefore does not have a delicate edge. Also, xxgrandpa suggested compressed air to force the glue into the crack. Another great idea.

TANSTAAFL - "THINGS ARE SELDOM AS BAD AS THEY FIRST APEAR". Truer words were never spoken :thumbsup:

 

[FishDFly]

I would try to salvage the stock before getting another one.

I have a stock that UPS destroyed in multiple places. The nice folks here offered numerous suggestions to repair the damage and they worked.

For a couple of cracks, roundball, suggested drilling through them with a 3/32 drill bit to the correct depth and then cutting the drill bit off a touch and putting it back in place with glue. That worked great. Use a hand drill when drilling and get some one to watch the angle of the drill bit. Use can also use brass rods instead of drill bits.

Some of the cracks I opened up with a Dremel tool.
You can fill them with slow drying epoxy, gun bedding material or Gorilla glue. If you use Gorilla glue whip it unitl it stops expanding
(about 3 to 4 times) and then put it in the crack.

I covered up the repair places with walnut putty and you can barely see them. I stripped the stock after the repairs and again followed roundballs recommendations on stock re-finishing.

I could not be happier with the stock and I saved money which I can now use to go buy something else.

RDE

 

[Rifleball36]

Get you a Maple stock blank and restock it to suit you. It is not hard to do and you just might enjoy it.