I hate grease !

[matt denison]

I recently fixed another lock for a fellow that was gopped up with grease inside and out. What a pain in the XXX, and fruitless way to lube a lock. I've run across this problem many times in the past.

Grease is meant for use in enclosed places like bearings, think tie rod ends which have a grease zerk.

Open mechanical things should be oiled.

Grease in an open environment will simply squeegy out of the way and build up someplace where it does no good. Meanwhile the bearing surface that it was meant to lube is running dry. In fact I have seen locks that were rendered inoperable and DANGEROUS because the grease that had been applied to the tumbler had swipped back behind the sear and built up in the full cock notch so the sear couldn't go "home" into the notch. Grease dries out, gets old and thick and collects tons of manure and turns into something resembling wax.

A good gun oil on the other had will seep back into the area it was intended to lube after each cycle of the lock, it is easier to apply and makes working on and maintainin your lock easier and more effective. And a lot less messy to work on. If it doesn't have a zerk fitting or bearing races then don't use grease. Simple.

:surrender:

 

[user 922]

Very good advice. Thanks.

 

[bnail]

that's good to know.
I was given a small container of "gun grease" several years ago by a good friend and was told that it's the "only" way to lube the inside of your lock. I actually misplaced the vial and never got around to using it but I always had it in the back of my head as the "best way."

 

[Stumpkiller]

Best way is with a toothpick and a tiny bit of light penetrating oil (i.e. Sewing Machine Oil, Rem-Oil, High-Speed Air Tool Oil, etc).

 

[jamesthomas]

Some of Swampys bear oil works excellent!!

 

[dbutch]

1. bear oil
2. Rem oil in spray pump bottle.

 

[buzz]

i use rem oil now few spars and wipe and re install the lock after it been leaned

 

[Rifleman1776]

I use WD-40 or CLP Break-Free.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

I use assembly lube

 

[Paul R]

Is powdered graphite adequate for lock lube, or too light?

Paul

 

[matt denison]

Watch out for Break Free. It is a teflon base and it has micro bearings that is very good for the slides on semi auto's ( can't talk abut that here) but will render a frizzen completely ineffective 'cause the flint will ride over the micro bearings and can't dig into the metal and make sparks. I have a story about that but not here, not now. :grin: Break Free is a great lubricating fluid IMHO but don't get it on the face of your frizzen.

 

[roundball]

Heavy, thick grease left in small delicate areas can be a problem for sure...keeping them clean and lightly lubed after every use maintains a constant environment and avoids problems.

Several ways to skin a cat of course...mine is to always clean the lock after every use whether I shot a deer or 50 shots at the range. Blow it out with compressed air, power flush with WD40, blow out the excess.

I also remove & clean all the frizzen contact & pivot points (screw, bridle shoulders, frizzen shoulders, spring) every time as well...then reassemble with a film of Shooter's Choice light grease on all the frizzen contact/pivot points from a syringe.

My frizzen maintenance may be thought overkill by some, but when I zip them back up in their cases, they're 100% showroom ready every time

 

[satwel]

In addition to being an excellent patch lube, jojoba oil can also be used to lubricate locks.

 

[Leatherbelly]

Try Mobile 1 or Amsoil synthetics.Best lock lube that I've found.Just a couple of drops now,they don't need much.