Hand made capotes

[Southlander]

Hi, All. It's been quite a while since I have been on here. Missed some good stuff while I was out!

I have some questions about hand made capotes. For those of you who have made them, what size needle do you typically use? How about thread? Any special comments there? I am not going for the stitch counter level of anything here as these will be my first attempts (poor kids get to be my guinea pigs! :rotf: ). I do have some sewing experience and hand sew almost exclusively (and I will be on this project, too). I am capable of 20-30 stitches per inch consistently. But I do want to make them good enough for new winter coats in the Fall and already have my blankets sourced and patterns purchased. My wife wants one, too, but is allergic to wool. Any suggestions on blankets or linings for her?

Thanks in advance!
~Southlander

 

[Ringel05]

For your wife you could go with Navaho (cotton) blankets, line it with a sateen or a bamboo interlock fabric.
You could even sandwich a Gore-Tex type fabric between the coat and the lining.

 

[Southlander]

Good idea. Thanks.

 

[tenngun]

Cotton is no good if it rains.Lots of coats then were lined,and you could try wool with cotton or silk linning

 

[Ringel05]

Cotton is no good if it rains.Lots of coats then were lined,and you could try wool with cotton or silk linning

Cheat and waterproof the cotton. The only drawback is she would have to be careful around open flames. :idunno:
As for cotton lined wool, it depends on how allergic she is, my wife is very allergic, the smell of the wool can trigger some people's allergy. Besides, if he sandwiches Gore-Tex in between that will keep the majority of the rain off of her and in the cotton only not to mention make the coat very warm.

 

[tenngun]

so true some folks start scratching when the hear the word wool.Also raw silk quilted around wool (or gortex )is hc

 

[crockett]

From what I have read to date capotes were "store made" and homemade. They were listed on the ledgers of fur trade supplies going to Rendezvous and there are some notes in mountain man diaries about their stopping and sewing up capotes- so there was probably a lot of wiggle room. Some of the Miller artwork shows ragged edges around the bottom so they likely didn't have any blanket stitching,at least in that area.
I've only made one- blue blanket. I used a blanket stitch to prevent unraveling (even around the bottom) and then a whip stitch to connect the parts. Used a big needle with a large eye and heavy black linen thread. I didn't put any buttons in front because a lot of the paintings of mountain men don't show them. No fringe. I was surprised the wind blew through the blanket to some extent- it was a lightweight blanket. I didn't know a liner was pc but I'd add one in the future if it is pc, at least with a lightweight blanket. I'm not sure what would be a pc liner- muslin? If I do another it would be either red or olive green. If you wear a red wool flannel shirt the olive green is good. White was a common capote color as well. No hood on mine- just a collar. If I need a button near the top- gun worm, belt in the middle keeps tight. BTW- there is a Miller painting of Mt Man Billy (?) Burrows and his capote has an outside pocket.
As I understand matters- styles changed over time and places. A capote at a Red River post in Canada might have big buttons, fringe, hood, and made from a heavy HBC blanket not requiring any liner.

 

[BrownBear]

Here's an insight for you I haven't read anywhere.

Long as you're making it, watch the overall length. I didn't like the thought of that material flapping down around my ankles when walking, so got one shorter- just below my knees. Dandy for walking, but darned near worthless when you sit down. Sit on a log and it doesn't even reach your knees. Sit on the ground and it isn't much better.

If your goal is to use it for warm around camp, go with one that comes closer to your ankles than your knees. It's sure a whole let better at doing the job you hired if for.

 

[Rod Lassey]

http://www.northwestjournal.ca/XIII3.htm

Rod

 

[Comrade Coffin]

Good day gents, I am not sure what period you are aiming for, or whether you are going for a capot or a blanket coat. There are some nice images here:-

http://flintlockandtomahawk.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/new-frances-defenders-in-capotes.html

 

[Rifleman1776]

I was surprised the wind blew through the blanket to some extent- it was a lightweight blanket.

Yes, wind will blow through wool. My capote is from a Whitney blanket. I was surprised that some folks were warm in their capotes while I was not. They were using Hudson Bay blankets. Made my Whitney but quite a bit thicker and fluffier. Since in my part of the country fall through late spring, mornings can be very chilly and mid-day gets warm, I changed my outfit. I have vest (wescott) of light wool, hip length coat of the same weight wool and my capote. I can wear all three layers at one time and remove as the need, or sun, arises. Works out quite well. I don't like being cold.

 

[Ringel05]

From what I have read to date capotes were "store made" and homemade. They were listed on the ledgers of fur trade supplies going to Rendezvous and there are some notes in mountain man diaries about their stopping and sewing up capotes- so there was probably a lot of wiggle room. Some of the Miller artwork shows ragged edges around the bottom so they likely didn't have any blanket stitching,at least in that area.
I've only made one- blue blanket. I used a blanket stitch to prevent unraveling (even around the bottom) and then a whip stitch to connect the parts. Used a big needle with a large eye and heavy black linen thread. I didn't put any buttons in front because a lot of the paintings of mountain men don't show them. No fringe. I was surprised the wind blew through the blanket to some extent- it was a lightweight blanket. I didn't know a liner was pc but I'd add one in the future if it is pc, at least with a lightweight blanket. I'm not sure what would be a pc liner- muslin? If I do another it would be either red or olive green. If you wear a red wool flannel shirt the olive green is good. White was a common capote color as well. No hood on mine- just a collar. If I need a button near the top- gun worm, belt in the middle keeps tight. BTW- there is a Miller painting of Mt Man Billy (?) Burrows and his capote has an outside pocket.
As I understand matters- styles changed over time and places. A capote at a Red River post in Canada might have big buttons, fringe, hood, and made from a heavy HBC blanket not requiring any liner.

Wool blankets (even if made very thick) are "porous" so wind will blow right through which is why wool coats were, and still are, lined with silk or a silk like material. So basically it's what you wear under the capote to break the wind that helps keep you warm.
I have a partially lined Great Coat that I completely lined, sandwiching Gore-tex in the middle, because it did little to keep me warm. No one can see the Gore-Tex and I no longer have to suffer in the cold.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have a partially lined Great Coat that I completely lined, sandwiching Gore-tex in the middle, because it did little to keep me warm. No one can see the Gore-Tex and I no longer have to suffer in the cold.

Is that what is called "cheating fair"?
Good for you. Suffering is not fun.
In our part of the country early spring produces a lot of freezing cold, but not frozen slush mud. Terrible on old feet. Moccasins are useless for protection. I have worn brown rubber muck boots with wool socks under my elk hide breeches. Breeches are long and with the boots muddy no one can tell what my footwear is, and usually they are so shivering cold they could care less. And, I'm comfortable.

 

[Southlander]

Ringel05,
I have a Confederate great mounted great coat that is my primary heavy winter coat, so I know all about the wind blowing through it. Even with a heavy muslin lining, it is still important to get something under it! However, I am a bit practiced at that now, but the wife and kids don't have that experience yet. Thanks for reminding me on that one!

 

[Southlander]

Doc Coffin,
I really enjoyed the pictures. Not my period, but I love history and as a history major at the University of Idaho, this has gone into my bookmarks for future reference!

 

[Southlander]

Rod L,
Thanks for the link. The descriptions of the various capotes was interesting. It has also been added to my links for future reference in my studies at the University of Idaho.

 

[Southlander]

BrownBear,
That's good information to know. I might have to make me two of them. One for hunting/hiking/rondy and a different one for in town. Having said that, the cold doesn't hit my legs like it hits my torso, for some reason. In fact, it makes my bad knee hurt a lot less for reasons unknown. :hmm:

 

[Doc Arroyo]

I use a greatcoat that was made by Calapooia Traders. Annette lined the beast with a tight woven linen, and I was very happy when David decided he wanted something different. The lining really helps cut the wind, and my wife has even worn it an evening or two, and she also is allergic to wool.