Grrr need help on old CVA rifle drum

[huntman58]

Okay I saw this on here and now can not find it no matter how I have searched for it. my drum needs to be replaced but what size thread is it or if any one has the part number for one a TOW the nipple screw size is 1/4 x 28 yes it was rethreaded but some how I cracked the dang drum now :cursing: :redface: . o well need to change it please help if ya can
ops for got to add it is an late 70's CVA 45 cal Kentucky barrel 7/8 and 33 1/2 long in case any one needed that

 

[huntman58]

well when i stopped looking and went looking for something other I found it corect me if I am wrong I think it is 12.5mm diameter, 10-1.25mm thread,

 

[brubincam]

-----why did you take it out-----

 

[longcruise]

I think those are the same as the ones on the Deer Creek Rifle works rifles. You could call them to be sure. Also call TOW instead of just looking at their web site. Also, get a thread measuring device to check it or take it into a hardware store and check it against their metric thread ware.

I recommend that once you get the correct thread, that you order the drum that is not drilled for the nipple and go ahead and pop for the nipple hole drill and tap jig from track. If you have the old one out and look at it you will probably see that it is pretty long and that it has a section on the front facing part of the threaded portion that has been relieved. That needs to face straight forward to the muzzle end of the barrel. Screw the drum all the way in before you do anything to it. Then, line up the angle across the outside end that is correct for the nipple angle as well as the location to drill the nipple hole in order to have the hammer hit the nipple at a 90 deg angle. Next, remove the drum and use a rat tail file to relieve the threaded end of the drum at the correct angle so as to face directly down the bore.

The reason the drum threads are so long is that the breach plug threads are also very long and there is a chamber drilled into the breach plug and the drum is drilled and tapped into the the bottom of the chamber and through the breach plug.

Now! Final caveat. If you have pulled the drum and it is not as I described above, ignore this whole set of instructions cause it probably does not apply to the way your rifle is built. I'll try to post a picture of the old drum that I removed to better explain how it looks.

 

[longcruise]

Here's a couple of pics.

 

[Robert58]

From my CVA Catalog.

Robert

 

[bwhoffman]

dixie had them in their catalog about 2 years back.I ordered one just to have onhand. was like 5 bucks and came withthe nipple and "clean out" screw, which is really just a plug from when they drilled out the flash channel. good to keep in the shooting box for "just in case" situations!

 

[William Joy]

Might be easier to drill and tap a larger and imperial size and get a new drum....
Other option would be a local machine shop....

 

[longcruise]

Yup, that's exactly the way the Deer Creek rifle was breeched. Interesting that they say it is patented.

I remember seeing a pictorial of a european yeager circa early 18th century that had been taken apart to reveal the exact same breach plug/vent liner arrangement.

Once I saw how the two interlocked I resolved to never remove the breech plug for fear of not being able to replace it with the correct alignment. :shocked2:

 

[Pork Chop]

CVA made the barrels for Deer Creek iirc.

Who has the clean out screws that go in the end of the drum? My squirrel rifle is missing one. I also need a good source for plain steel oval head wood screws.

 

[bwhoffman]

I have had good success finding both these items at the hardware store(the old fashioned kind) that have the pull out drawers full of small odd ball stuff. the clean out screw is probably metric, they should have an asst of small metric machine screws. the allen heads work well as they give more area to work with when removing!
Plated screws work also as a last resort, sand the plating off!

 

[longcruise]

CVA made the barrels for Deer Creek iirc.

Yes, that became apparent after the drum "incident" I might not have bought the kit had I known that, but after shooting the rifle I was completely satisfied with it as is my grandson whom I gave it to after it's first hunting season.

My little independent neighborhood hardware store can usually come up with what I need. The owner of the store is completely ok with me walking in with gun parts and even whole guns when looking for special sizes. Try that at Lowes! :rotf:

Plated screws work also as a last resort, sand the plating off!

Can also hold a propane torch on them til they turn blue to get to the steel underneath. I once tossed a whole handful of plated screws of various sizes into a very weak mix of AQ and then into a mix of baking soda and water to neutralize. Also, you can make round head screws out of flat heads by chucking the threaded portion into a hand drill and taking the edge off all around and then use the same technique to round over the top. It does reduce the size of the head a bit. Also a good way to make tang bolts.

 

[rickjf]

That "drum" is the reason there is almost no hope of converting CVA or Traditions percussion rifles to flintlock :cursing:

 

[longcruise]

That "drum" is the reason there is almost no hope of converting CVA or Traditions percussion rifles to flintlock

Could be hope! If you truly want to give it a try, you could obtain a threaded rod with the same thread as the drum and make a vent liner with it with a pretty good sized cone in the the bore side so as to get some powder close to the vent hole. Would be sorta like a White Lightnin set up. Other things that could be used would be a bolt with the same thread or a set screw, etc.

I wouldn't recut the threads in case the idea is a bust and you would end up with a whole new project of getting it back to percussion. :shocked2: