got my smoothbore, have some questions

Discussion in 'Smoothbore' started by Howie1968, Apr 25, 2019.

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  1. Apr 25, 2019 #1

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

    40 Cal.

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    I received my shotgun yesterday camr with over the powder wads and over the shot wads and a few shot cups.
    I did the usual cleaning put 2 brand new nipples on her. out of curiosity I wanted to see how the shotcup fit. I couldn't even get it started before it would twist up. tried the fiber wad then the shot cards. I couldn't get them down either. I double checked made sure it said 12 gauge which it did. I just about hit send on a couple orders one for shot, wads and wonder wads. antvthe other for .690 roundballs an patches .010 and .015. I stopped and went to academy and bought a digital caliper.
    got home the bore measures .690 to .693 I bet I took measurements for an hour I came up with the same thing. got off work and ive spent all morning measuring rechecking itc every now and then id get .700. squirrel season starts may 1st I was hoping to get it patterned and to have ran some round balls through her. I like the shotgun, my first smoothbore right now not sure what direction to go. if full choke that's great for these tall east texas pines. alls I wanted it for is squirrel and hogs. I think tow has some .678 balls please any advice will be helpful. an old timer told me to take a dime and put it sideways in barrel if it goes its not full choke. if it wont go its full choke. the dime will not go
     
  2. Apr 25, 2019 #2

    Stumpkiller

    Stumpkiller

    Stumpkiller

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    Cylinder bored 12 gauge is 0.729" At 0.693" you have an "extra full" choke if the bore is properly 12 ga. That's not the best choice for throwing balls. I have a 16 bore (0.662") and I use 0.648" balls with a paper cartridge (2-1/2 turns of typing paper in a tube). But that's a cylinder/unchoked bore.

    The fiber wads and over-powder wads should be larger than bore size to get a tight fit. Over-shot card is the "delicate" fit and should be such that the edges are just partially curled back. I poke an air hole in mine (or clip the edge with nippers) so the air can get out. Otherwise they can "pop" off after you pull out the rammer from the air pressure. You'll really have to squish them into the muzzle. I'd recommend a length of dowel just under bore size with the end rounded a bit to help press them in and get them past the choke.

    Are you using centerfire shot cups? They would be tight as the shell chamber in a c.f. is larger than the bore. They squeeze down a lot when fired. I use paper "cups" I form at the muzzle when loading.
     
  3. Apr 25, 2019 #3

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

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    Rmc/oxyoke wonderwads made for 12 gauge says they are flexible to get through the chokes, I called them and they said 1 over powder 1 over shot and you are good to go. this smoothbore/ shotgun stuff is really new to me. I found one in the classifieds and bought it. I seen where the .693 is full choke explains the heck trying to get componets down the bore. I read so much about smoothbores and cylander bore this took me by surprise
     
  4. Apr 26, 2019 #4

    Britsmoothy

    Britsmoothy

    Britsmoothy

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    Forget your wads.
    Just use a a few over shot cards on the powder. Start them in curled some and then turn them some, the rammer will fix them on the way down. Shot and another os card.
    It keeps it simple.
    You have a full choked shotgun. It's going to be a pain with ball, don't bother.

    Most European bores for 12g run .719". I have seen one at .710! Many a pedersoli passed through my hands and they were .720"-.721".

    B.
     
  5. Apr 26, 2019 #5

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

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    Thank you. I've accepted it will be a full choke should be perfect for squirrel and Turkey. I ordered a 25 lb bag of #6 shot. Talked to a friend and he said that's good to have full chokes for what I want to do with it
     
  6. Apr 26, 2019 #6

    tenngun

    tenngun

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    Or use a wad of brown paper like shopping bags. Cut 1” wide strips, then cut the strip every 2”. Melt some lard and toss them in. Remove to a plate with a couple of paper towels on it and let them cool. Start them with your rod,push the crumpled end in to the bore and ram wad home. Tap a couple times to make sure it’s good and solid. Pour in your shot ram a new paper wad home the same way. The wads are greased enough they won’t catch fire. And the grease makes them sticky so they won’t slip off the charge.
    One would think greased paper would burn like a torch, But it’s not exposed enough or long to the heat to catch a spark or melt the grease.
    Hemp ,tow or wool fibers, make great wads. Hobby store felt if it’s all wool makes great wads too cut just like the paper.
     
  7. Apr 26, 2019 #7

    Loyalist Dave

    Loyalist Dave

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    AND Ducks and Geese, when using Bismuth shot. ;)

    LD
     
  8. Apr 26, 2019 #8

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

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    Matter of fact. On the lock it has pictures of geese 20190424_151806.jpg 20190424_152139.jpg 20190424_152031.jpg
     
  9. Apr 26, 2019 #9

    jrmflintlock

    jrmflintlock

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    I would stay away from any round ball in a modern choked gun. Jug choked is a different beast all together. You would hate to blow off the muzzle!

    I get all my wads from the Possible shop. They have fiber wads, all kinds of card wads and felt wads too!

    Good luck with your load development!!
     
  10. Apr 27, 2019 #10

    THBailey

    THBailey

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    Just FYI, get yourself a cheap 5/8 wooden dowel for loading the gun, much easier than the short ramrod that comes with the gun. Cut it 8 or 10 inches longer than the barrel for a nice handle to grab. Also mark it at the muzzle for the length empty and the length loaded. Your going to like hunting with your new gun.
     
  11. Apr 27, 2019 #11

    THBailey

    THBailey

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  12. Apr 28, 2019 #12

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

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    I will get the dowel rod in the morning. my shot will be here tues. I ordered some 4 and 6 shot . Squirrel season opens may 1st. I also took my locks off and polished all contact points. made sure to not change any angles now I have crisp clean and smooth 4 lb triggers 58461565_10217447161427765_1676545985846706176_n[1].jpg 58380251_10217447161627770_1806689787042594816_n[1].jpg 58380251_10217447161627770_1806689787042594816_n[1].jpg
     
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  13. Apr 28, 2019 #13

    THBailey

    THBailey

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    Awesome! You are much more talented than I am!!
     
  14. May 15, 2019 #14

    Eterry

    Eterry

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    Howie, i've been away from the smooth bore side, i missed your post.

    My friend who has shot ML trap with full chokes for decades sold me a 10 ga with full choke.

    He uses over powder and over shot wads. He takes a small pair of pliers, bends the over powder wad on the 'corner', about 1/4", and puts the part in first, then seating the wad flush, then using a loading rod to seat it.
    The over shot wad needs no such attention... just start part of it in the muzzle then push in flush with fingers, then use the rod.
    A blend of Murphy's oil soap and water lubes up the bore and softens fouling

    He's done this for years, had won and placed in many trap shoots, but is slowing down due to age.

    It seems to work for me as well.
     
  15. May 21, 2019 #15

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

    Howie1968

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    I took your advice. got 2 5/8 dowel rods 36 inches. I pushed down the bore when it hit the bottom I cut a line around the dowel for when its empty. I sanded the dowels im putting tru oil on them first coat is drying now. I then drilled a hole 3 inches from the end of the dowel put leather lacing throuch the hole. in case something gets stuck I have a handle to pull. ill post pics as soon as I get 5 or 6 coats on them
     

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