Well, I got my Lee .535" roundball mold to work. Some of you may remember my post from a couple weeks ago detailing the problems I was having with it. (If you don't remember, it's the locked post down the page a little. :winking: ) I figured I'd post what I did in case anyone else is having a problem getting consistent results with theirs.
To begin with, I used four ought steel wool to clean the soot from the cavities. I had previously smoked them with a match to help the bullets drop free more easily.
I then brought a pot of distilled water to a boil and immersed the blocks in it for about five minutes, careful not to put the handles in as I didn't want any water getting trapped between the wood and metal.
After allowing the mold to drip-dry for ten minutes or so, I thoroughly wiped down all the metal with denatured alcohol, again being careful to avoid getting any in the wood/metal juntion.
I decided to forgo smoking the mold this time around. 'Figured I could soot it up later on if I needed to.
I set the mold on the edge of the pot before turning it on. This way, any moisture that might have been hiding would have a chance to evaporate long before the lead melted and it could pose a problem, as well as to bring the blocks up to temp prior to casting.
I brought the lead up to 775 degrees and poured relatively slowly. (I use a bottom-pour furnace, BTW.) I poured straight down the hole and continued pouring for a second or so after the cavity was full. This agitated/circulated the lead in the cavity, allowing any air to escape, as well as ensuring a generous puddle on top of the mold upon which the cavity could draw as the lead cooled and contracted.
The balls did not drop out as freely as when the mold was sooted, but a couple light smacks with my stick on the handle hinge let them pop out handily.
The result? After the first ten I threw back in the pot, 90% of the balls I cast were within one grain of each other. They are virtually blemishless and the diameter is consistent. I will shoot some in the next couple weeks and see how my home-grown match up against the store-boughts. Judging by the consistency, I think they'll do well.
I do so love it when a plan works out!
:thumbsup:
To begin with, I used four ought steel wool to clean the soot from the cavities. I had previously smoked them with a match to help the bullets drop free more easily.
I then brought a pot of distilled water to a boil and immersed the blocks in it for about five minutes, careful not to put the handles in as I didn't want any water getting trapped between the wood and metal.
After allowing the mold to drip-dry for ten minutes or so, I thoroughly wiped down all the metal with denatured alcohol, again being careful to avoid getting any in the wood/metal juntion.
I decided to forgo smoking the mold this time around. 'Figured I could soot it up later on if I needed to.
I set the mold on the edge of the pot before turning it on. This way, any moisture that might have been hiding would have a chance to evaporate long before the lead melted and it could pose a problem, as well as to bring the blocks up to temp prior to casting.
I brought the lead up to 775 degrees and poured relatively slowly. (I use a bottom-pour furnace, BTW.) I poured straight down the hole and continued pouring for a second or so after the cavity was full. This agitated/circulated the lead in the cavity, allowing any air to escape, as well as ensuring a generous puddle on top of the mold upon which the cavity could draw as the lead cooled and contracted.
The balls did not drop out as freely as when the mold was sooted, but a couple light smacks with my stick on the handle hinge let them pop out handily.
The result? After the first ten I threw back in the pot, 90% of the balls I cast were within one grain of each other. They are virtually blemishless and the diameter is consistent. I will shoot some in the next couple weeks and see how my home-grown match up against the store-boughts. Judging by the consistency, I think they'll do well.
I do so love it when a plan works out!
:thumbsup:
Whatever the case, it was the first problem I've ever experienced with a Lee mold (and I have 27 of those suckers, so I'm not exactly unfamiliar with their products... :grin: ). Regardless, the deep cleaning seemed to turn the trick. Also, running the temp up a little bit (I normally cast my pure lead bullets at 750 degrees) seemed to help and none of the bullets came out frosted, despite casting continuously and not cooling down the mold after every dozen throws like I usually do. 
