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ffg or fffg powder in a ROA

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sandbergski

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I just picked up a ruger old army. My first revolver. Can i use ffg instead of fffg and why or why not: Please help me understand
 
You may use either but 3F will ignite easier and give more velocity because it packs tighter (more will fit in the chambers) and burns faster. 3F is what most people use. Use Remington #10 caps if you have original nipples; they fit properly.
 
I've used both 2F and 3F black powder, as well as Pyrodex P and Pyrodex RS. All work well, but I've gotten best accuracy with a 23 gr. load of 3F, with wonder wad or greased paper wad seated between paper and powder. Contrary to what the purists like to contend, Pyrodex produces nearly identical results on paper, and if it's all you can get, there's no compromise or degradation in performance using it.

First off, Ruger admits in the manual that it is safe to fill the chamber as full as you can and still be able to seat a bullet flush. Keep in mind that faster is usually less accurate, but it definitely turns heads at the range when you touch off a maximum load :thumbsup:

I've never gotten much accuracy from a variety of conicals I've tried, and Triple Seven will give you a more velocity. Keep in mind that if you want .44 Magnum performance, it's better to go out and buy one.
 
i just want to find a good load for hunting white tail in northern wi.i will be shoot no more than about 40 yards. i think that this gun is capable of it, am i right or just out of my mind...... :youcrazy:
 
At 23g there is a space between the powder and the ball. are you putting paper in just to take up that space or are you pushing the balls in out side of the gun, because the ramer will not go that fare down.
 
I had the Ruger several years ago and they recommended using a filler between the powder and ball to leave the ball a 1/4 inch below the end of chamber for best results. Cornmeal was what they recommended, sure stunk when fired. Check your states ruling if planning on handgun hunting in muzzeloader season. Some states require just that, single shot muzzleloaders.
 
I couldn't tell you if a RB is adequate enough out to 40 yds from a ROA even if using sporting grade powder (Swiss, Olde Eynsford, or Triple 7), but it certainly can be if using a conical with said powders.

I'd think it likely best to use some sort of conical if you are wanting to shoot out that far. I've had Tom from Accurate Molds to make a design with a wide flat nose that was virtually the same length as a RB so as not to reduce the powder charge. It came out as a 180 grn (if cast with WW's) conical of 0.460" OAL.
http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=45-180S-D.png

Another guy had him make one that was a bit heavier and with an even wider meplat.
http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=45-200S-D.png

And there are a few others in their catalog.

But that means you'll also need to ensure you can hit your target area every time with said load. As is often stated, many find a max load to not be as accurate.

I was at the range yesterday and tried some 195 grn SWC's and 35 grns of 3F Triple 7. I shot 12 times and most of them are grouped nicely within 2 1/4". But I had a couple of fliers that opened it up considerably. I'm not sure why, but I see my results, and know that I cannot unless the range is short.

Many feel 6" is good enough for hunting. I'm not happy unless I can keep 4" or less to give me a little room incase I make a mistake.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
sandbergski said:
i just want to find a good load for hunting white tail in northern wi.i will be shoot no more than about 40 yards. i think that this gun is capable of it, am i right or just out of my mind...... :youcrazy:

I killed one last year from ~40 yards with 30 gr. 3FG and a 255 gr. FP conical of pure lead.
You are NOT out of your mind.
 
sandbergski said:
At 23g there is a space between the powder and the ball. are you putting paper in just to take up that space or are you pushing the balls in out side of the gun, because the ramer will not go that fare down.

Some folks use greased felt wads, but I use lightly greased paper between powder and ball. In light loads it takes up space to compress the powder load and in heavier loads it just provides a little lube between shots. I load either with revolver ram, or with one of a couple of different benchtop loaders. While I could seat deep enough over a light powder load to compress the powder with ball alone, I find the greased paper wad makes a definite difference in keeping chambers and bore cleaner longer.
 
30g of Goex FFFg under a 250g Lee REAL cast from pure lead. No wad or filler but I do grease like a RB. Runs just under 900 fps. Accurate load but shoots above poa with factory sights. Can’t give account of terminal effect, no willing “volunteers” when I have carried that load in the field.
 
That's a very nice velocity from standard Goex. I've been coming across a couple of instances such as yours. It seems most of them I've seen shows power closer to that of a .38 Spl/S&W. Maybe what had been used didn't create a good enough gas seal?
 
Most certainly. Maybe as an investment it would be worth a pristine never fired pistol, but even worn in, but in good condition, you can get some money back out of it, far more than you likely paid.
 
The Ruger manual is on line. They say stuff all you can get in it, and still have room for the ball. But there's the catch, they bored the cylinder, to where it wouldn't hold but so much. I guess you can keep adding until you run out of room. They also mention, that max loads, may not produce the best accuracy. One of the big name pistol smiths, will bore out the cylinder, to make it deeper. I'm thinking it might be Clements. Maybe somebody else can think of the name. Ruger says use any Fg to ffffg but fffg, works the best.
 
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