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cva plainsman rear barrel plug stuck
- Thread starter btc08
- Start date
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The breech or barrel plug at the rear is not meant to be removed.
When the barrel was made, the plug was screwed in place with a great amount of torque.
To further strengthen the breech, CVA barrels use a nipple drum that screws into the side of the breech plug's threaded area, effectively pinning the breech plug in place.
Don't try to remove either the side drum or the breech plug from your guns barrel.
As for the screw in the end of the drum, it should unscrew if the nipple is not installed.
Many of these small screws become locked in place because the end of the screw threads becomes damaged by the nipple threads when it is installed.
Also, it is fairly common for the drum screw threads to become rusted in place.
This does not create a real safety hazard because basically the screws threads are over-designed for the pressure loads they must withstand.
Many people don't bother with trying to remove the drum screw.
The vent hole that was drilled thru the drum and is now plugged by the screw can be cleaned if you can find some old fashioned pipe cleaners.
The kind of pipe cleaners smokers use to clean their pipe stems.
These pipe cleaners are sometimes available at a drug store or at a store or shop that sells tobacco.
To use the pipe cleaner, remove the nipple and bend the end of the cleaner so it will start into the flame channel hole at the bottom of the nipple threads.
Wet the cleaner with water and snake it into the flame channel. Rotating it a bit and pushing it will allow it to work down thru the hole and clean it out.
When the barrel was made, the plug was screwed in place with a great amount of torque.
To further strengthen the breech, CVA barrels use a nipple drum that screws into the side of the breech plug's threaded area, effectively pinning the breech plug in place.
Don't try to remove either the side drum or the breech plug from your guns barrel.
As for the screw in the end of the drum, it should unscrew if the nipple is not installed.
Many of these small screws become locked in place because the end of the screw threads becomes damaged by the nipple threads when it is installed.
Also, it is fairly common for the drum screw threads to become rusted in place.
This does not create a real safety hazard because basically the screws threads are over-designed for the pressure loads they must withstand.
Many people don't bother with trying to remove the drum screw.
The vent hole that was drilled thru the drum and is now plugged by the screw can be cleaned if you can find some old fashioned pipe cleaners.
The kind of pipe cleaners smokers use to clean their pipe stems.
These pipe cleaners are sometimes available at a drug store or at a store or shop that sells tobacco.
To use the pipe cleaner, remove the nipple and bend the end of the cleaner so it will start into the flame channel hole at the bottom of the nipple threads.
Wet the cleaner with water and snake it into the flame channel. Rotating it a bit and pushing it will allow it to work down thru the hole and clean it out.
I remove the drum screw from the barrel every time I clean my rifle. I use permatex non-silicon anti-seize compound on the threads. This, and the nipple are always clean and there are no misfires. When I got the gun, the drum was plugged with "stuff" and that will never happen again. I use this same technique with all my revolvers. Remove and clean the nipples, anti-seize on the threads. Ounce of prevention, ya know.
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Mr Troll, I have several older muzzle loaders that I acquired second hand. I've never tried to remove the drum screw to clean the drum. I've always worried that they may be badly rusted and to try to remove them would just create another problem. I do remove the nipple when I clean barrel and make sure that plenty of soapy water gets pumped through the breach and drum. I've not had problems with pluggers or fowled drums using this method.
I have a TC Hawken that I built from a kit around 40+ years ago that has seen lots of use and I've never pulled the plug on the snail on that one either.
This isn't a criticism of your method, just a different way of doing things.
I have a TC Hawken that I built from a kit around 40+ years ago that has seen lots of use and I've never pulled the plug on the snail on that one either.
This isn't a criticism of your method, just a different way of doing things.
If PB Blaster and Kroil and the like fail to loosen the screw, drill it out if needs be. Then you can tap it for the next larger size and put a new screw in.
If the screw head looks fine, leave it alone and enjoy your rifle. Clean it through the cone with pipe cleaners.
9 times out of 10, folks who attempt to remove a CVA patent breech and or the bolster wind up wrecking the barrel.
If the screw head looks fine, leave it alone and enjoy your rifle. Clean it through the cone with pipe cleaners.
9 times out of 10, folks who attempt to remove a CVA patent breech and or the bolster wind up wrecking the barrel.
It's kind of like using the parking brake on your car...you either do it all the time, or never. either way, getting the flash channel clean is the objective. I have bought revolvers that had NEVER had the nipples removed...talk about a PITA
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I've been there and done that too on revolvers. You are right on the PIA to get the nipples out if they haven't been removed. I do remove the nipples every time I clean my revolvers and on percussion rifles too.
