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Converting A Cap To Flint
- Thread starter morelic55
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If you pull the drum, you will find it leaves a big hole where the flash hole needs to be, and the construction of the patented drum/breech plug assembly may be a problem with cleaning and maintenance. When I looked at the process recently, I decided against the change, as it seems that the conversion was really going to require refitting a new plug. There are several that would work. But by the time I cut the barrel, refitted a plug, etc. I was sneaking up on the practical option, a new plug and barrel.
You could maybe fit a metric bolt, and mount a flash hole in that, but the logistics would not be trivial.
You could maybe fit a metric bolt, and mount a flash hole in that, but the logistics would not be trivial.
I did it years ago and it worked fine but I didn't shoot it allot. Just pull the drum and replace with a liner. Install a new lock. You also have the concern of lining up the lock with the liner for best reliability. With the expense of getting a new lock(you can't go cheap with a flint lock), getting a good one, you may be better off picking up a descent used gun.
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If on a budget, the price of new flintlock barrel is proably the 75% to same price you can get for that barrel on ebay.
Used discontinued mass produced locks also go for a decent price as well.
I'd go this route if you like to tinker and have a good history of successful tinker projects.
Otherwise, sell what you got and buy what you looking for.
Plenty of good used flintlocks for $300 or so. Even more so for right handed shooters.
Used discontinued mass produced locks also go for a decent price as well.
I'd go this route if you like to tinker and have a good history of successful tinker projects.
Otherwise, sell what you got and buy what you looking for.
Plenty of good used flintlocks for $300 or so. Even more so for right handed shooters.
It can be done on CVAs or Traditions cap guns, but it MUST be done right!
CVA uses 3 lengths of bolsters and using the replacement bolt method, the length of your new one must be of the same length as the one it replaces. The 3 lengths are (1) thru the barrel wall only, (2) thru the barrel wall and full width of the breech plug, and (3) thru all the and into the barrel wall opposite the lock.
The patent breech 'firing chamber' you make in the bolt must mate to the existing chamber location.
CVA uses 3 lengths of bolsters and using the replacement bolt method, the length of your new one must be of the same length as the one it replaces. The 3 lengths are (1) thru the barrel wall only, (2) thru the barrel wall and full width of the breech plug, and (3) thru all the and into the barrel wall opposite the lock.
The patent breech 'firing chamber' you make in the bolt must mate to the existing chamber location.
That's true! The method of using a bolt allows the arm to be converted back, if desired. Some add a screw slot across the new bolster, allowing its removal.morelic55 said:
FWIW -I just converted a TVM Late Lancaster I have from percussion to flint. It's actually convertible now so I can swap back and forth (pretty slick).
The only part that was tricky was finding a vent liner that fit well. None of the ones from Track of the Wolf seemed to work right, but I found one at Jedediah Starr that works great.
TVM uses a 5/16-24 thread for their percussion bolsters. Luckily that's also a common size for vent liners. Would have been trickier if that weren't the case.
Ben
The only part that was tricky was finding a vent liner that fit well. None of the ones from Track of the Wolf seemed to work right, but I found one at Jedediah Starr that works great.
TVM uses a 5/16-24 thread for their percussion bolsters. Luckily that's also a common size for vent liners. Would have been trickier if that weren't the case.
Ben
