Ok, Ive been wanting to build a kit for awhile, but I have never blued a barrel before. I have a piece of steel, a pistol barrel rib, and some perma blue and super blue. My questions are: Do you dab it on or wipe in the longest storke as in staining a piece of wood? Direction say to leave it on for 1 min for perma blue and super for 30 sec before washing Is this right? can you leave it on longer? Any benifits to doing so? To polish it after can u use scocth brite or do u have to use steel wool? What O of steel wool and grade of scotch brite pad? How many coats do those of u use who have used these products? And of course any other info anyone can give would be appreciated. Thanks
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Cold Blueing
- Thread starter whummell
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I'd follow the directions on the bottle. If you don't like the results consider using Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution. IMO it always produces an even, dark brown. If you like a little shiny you can finish with a drop of linseed oil or some beeswax.
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Depending on the type of gun you're building, cold bluing would most likely be inappropriate.
Charcoal Bluing, Browning or left in the white (armoury bright) and allowed to age naturally would most likely be the way to go.
Charcoal Bluing, Browning or left in the white (armoury bright) and allowed to age naturally would most likely be the way to go.
IMO, you can apply it using a Q tip or a cotton swab. Wash it off between coats and apply several of them to help make it look uniform.
I think you will have the best luck with the Perma Blue if your barrel and hardware is made out of low carbon steel. The Super Blue is actually made for use on modern guns who are made out of high strength alloy steel. I've not had good results with Super Blue on the low carbon steels.
Both of these blueing solutions create the blueing by laying down Selenium compounds. The deposited material is not very hard so it is not resistant to abrasion. If you rub it out with steel wool or other harsh pads, it will frinkle up the surface more than help it. IMO, your best bet is to use a wet paper towel to "rub it out".
These solutions work best if you degrease the surface either by washing with strong soap and water, or by using disk brake cleaner, then washing the surface.
Do not oil the surface until you are sure it is as good as it gets. Then use a good gun oil like Sheath or Barrier to protect it. The oil will also darken it some and make it look better.
As the others have mentioned, there are more historical ways of changing steels color but if you are wanting to use a quick method, this is the lowest cost option.
As with most quick, low cost methods, it probably won't look as good as the finish modern factory reproductions have so don't expect too much.
I can hear the others...WHAT?...Zonie knows something about that unHistoric stuff?
I wouldn't be without it.
For touching up tiny nicks and darkening small areas like the V notch in a sight after sighting in a new gun, it can't be beat! :grin:
I think you will have the best luck with the Perma Blue if your barrel and hardware is made out of low carbon steel. The Super Blue is actually made for use on modern guns who are made out of high strength alloy steel. I've not had good results with Super Blue on the low carbon steels.
Both of these blueing solutions create the blueing by laying down Selenium compounds. The deposited material is not very hard so it is not resistant to abrasion. If you rub it out with steel wool or other harsh pads, it will frinkle up the surface more than help it. IMO, your best bet is to use a wet paper towel to "rub it out".
These solutions work best if you degrease the surface either by washing with strong soap and water, or by using disk brake cleaner, then washing the surface.
Do not oil the surface until you are sure it is as good as it gets. Then use a good gun oil like Sheath or Barrier to protect it. The oil will also darken it some and make it look better.
As the others have mentioned, there are more historical ways of changing steels color but if you are wanting to use a quick method, this is the lowest cost option.
As with most quick, low cost methods, it probably won't look as good as the finish modern factory reproductions have so don't expect too much.
I can hear the others...WHAT?...Zonie knows something about that unHistoric stuff?
I wouldn't be without it.
For touching up tiny nicks and darkening small areas like the V notch in a sight after sighting in a new gun, it can't be beat! :grin:
I agree with Zonie. Except,in my opinion, cold bluing, in this instance, Permablue, can look very nice if you apply it a little differently. I apply it with a clean cotton rag on clean steel and rub it hard until it feels warm. Dry it with a different cloth between coats and continue to apply until you get the color you want. I usually like it as dark as you can get it. Then, rinse it with water and dry it and apply some vaseline, or light oil and rub it in. This works good IMO and I have several guns that I did this to and they hold up very well.One gun, in particular, has had the blue this way for 25 years and still looks nice. All the PCers may noy agree with this. It's just my twist on a cheap but effective finish. Good luck whatever method you choose. :winking: Shantheman
Like Zonie, I haven't had the best results on some steels with the traditional cold bluing products. A friend suggested Blue Wonder. I got the kit with the cleaner (important to use their cleaner for best results), blue, and developer. It's not inexpensive, but seems to work on every steel alloy I've tried it on and also wears very well. It was a lot easier to avoid the streaking you can get with some other cold blues, and it works great for touch-up, as it won't affect existing bluing and it's simple to vary the shade.
Just another product you might consider if you're set on bluing...
Personally, I used the Laurel Mountain Forge Browning solution on my Lyman GPR (my first build) and found it easy to use as long as you followed the (rather specific) directions that came with it. Plus, there's enough product that if you do make a mistake, there's plenty for multiple tries.
:thumbsup:
Just another product you might consider if you're set on bluing...
Personally, I used the Laurel Mountain Forge Browning solution on my Lyman GPR (my first build) and found it easy to use as long as you followed the (rather specific) directions that came with it. Plus, there's enough product that if you do make a mistake, there's plenty for multiple tries.
:thumbsup:
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