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Adjustable hone?

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Got a CVA Frontier .50 caliber percussion barrel that was fired, NOT cleaned and put aside!! Bore is JUNK!! (may have been a kit gun??) Been too far back to remember.
Looks like 40 miles of bad road with LOTS of potholes!!
Tried Scotch Brite pads on a cleaning rod and lots of oil way back when.
Got rid of the rust and corrosion but the pot/chuckholes are still there.
Full rib, hooked breach plug, adjustable rear sight and brass thimbles.
15/16" across the flats and 28" long.
Little steel wool and oil would make the outside very presentable again.
Hate to leave it set when it could be used as a smooth bore??
Anyone know of an "adjustable hone" that would fit the barrel to at least make it usable?
TIA, Mike.
 
Thinking all breech plugs would be removable, but worth the extra effort?? :oops:
A reamer all the way to the installed breech plug. Better than what's there now.
I DO see what you're saying. :thumb:
Maybe cut the plug/nipple area off, hone than rethread for plug and nipple?
Only loosing maybe 1"?
 
You might be better off sending it to Bobby Hoyt. He could most likely turn it into a nice .54.
What's the fun in that? Throw $$$ at it and end up with nothing to do?
I was thinking of something "I" could do with it.
No rifling?? Maybe a smooth bore from day one??? CVA Frontier.
Is that a possibility? I do know there's NO rifling now. At least at the first couple of inches.
And NO, I don't have a light to drop down the barrel. Maybe I should have a couple? Can they be "turned off and on"?
 
if there is no rifling in the bore, you could use a hone. i have one used for brake cylinders that fits into a 50 cal bore.
as soon as i have all the other fires i have going put out, i am going to work on a New Englander barrel i have that looks like the craters of the moon. it actually has some residual rifling so i am going to use a round scraper first.
it is actually number 300 now on my to do list!
and as far as not getting the first couple inches at the breach smoothed out, the ball /shot is usually not in that zone anyway.
 
What's the fun in that? Throw $$$ at it and end up with nothing to do?
I was thinking of something "I" could do with it.
No rifling?? Maybe a smooth bore from day one??? CVA Frontier.
Is that a possibility? I do know there's NO rifling now. At least at the first couple of inches.
And NO, I don't have a light to drop down the barrel. Maybe I should have a couple? Can they be "turned off and on"?
Well then a brake cylinder hone, like @deerstalkert said, would be a good option. Removing the breech plug would make the job easier and you’d know just what you have.
 
I have several thousands of dollars in hones and experience with them. Let me stress that hones are for finishing and removing tenths. Reams are for the step between drilling and honing or lapping.

If you feel inclined to use a ball hone, first ask where you're going to find a 2 foot extension that isn't going to flex so bad it chews up your finish.....then how are you going to gauge your work.....and finally how are you going to finance that many hones.
 
Yes, I understand when I said " deal with the gun" I was referring to the whole package including the barrel. I can't see a better way than replacing the barrel and at 100 bucks it's not that much.
 
Let us know how it works out. I predict destruction of any homes or reamers. These are intended for finishing a smoothbore, and cannot withstand use in a worn and cruddy rifled bore.

I wish you luck but you’ve started with the premise that the barrel must be saved and that you’ll be able to do whatever it is you decide to do, though you may lack experience (guessing because an experienced barrel-ressurector would know it need to be bored ( that is, drilled) then reamed then rifled or used as a smoothbore. And that to do these things, it must be unbreeched. Persisting in demanding that someone here provides a solution that meets your requirements won’t change the size of the job or the steps and experience required to do it successfully.
 
Let us know how it works out. I predict destruction of any homes or reamers. These are intended for finishing a smoothbore, and cannot withstand use in a worn and cruddy rifled bore.

I wish you luck but you’ve started with the premise that the barrel must be saved and that you’ll be able to do whatever it is you decide to do, though you may lack experience (guessing because an experienced barrel-ressurector would know it need to be bored ( that is, drilled) then reamed then rifled or used as a smoothbore. And that to do these things, it must be unbreeched. "Persisting in demanding that someone here provides a solution that meets your requirements won’t change the size of the job or the steps and experience required to do it successfully".
I DIDN'T demand or state ANYTHING and just didn't like the idea of the barrel not being used.
I asked a question and asked for opinions. Now I know more than I first asked. ;)
Don't think I would be going to YOU for help or an opinion. :(
 
I just recently did a CVA wolf barrel that was in the same condition as yours. I bought a adjustable hand reamer and started with it just barely cutting the rifling and made a complete pass then adjusted it a little larger each pass .The reamer I have has a square head for turning with a tool that you use for turning taps and was able to use 1/4 inch socket extensions to go completely full length of barrel. Took about 4 times to completely cut out the rust and pitting. If this is not clear just contact me and I will try to explain better
 
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