Chainfires! Powder Related??

[Zonie]

I have shot Cap and Ball guns for over 30 years and have yet to have a chainfire (lucky I guess).
Reading the other post about Chainfires got me thinking.

Ever sense Pyrodex came out, I have been using it in my pistols.
As we all know, Pyrodex is a very poor powder to use in a flintlock because of its high ignition temperature. This leads to the obvious question: Is Pyrodex (and similar powders) safer to shoot in a C&B gun because it is less likely to ignite from a neighboring chamber?

Perhaps a good way to get a better handle on this question is to ask the following questions:

Have you ever had a Chainfire?
What powder were you using when it occured?
Do you apply grease the mouth of the cylinder over the ball or use wads under it?

You don't have to give much of an answer, although if you wish to add comments, they are welcome.

A typical answer might be: No. Black. Wads."
or "Yes. 777. None."

I'll start this off by saying

No. Pyrodex. Grease

 

[Markwhiz]

In 3 years (at least 300 shots) I've had no chainfires or close calls with my 1858 clone.
I've shot Pyro P Pellets, Goex Black, 777, Clear Shot, Clean Shot, and Black Mag 3.
I use lubed wads 100% of the time and grease patch over the ball too over 75% of the time.

For ignition, I've used CCI #11s & #11Mags.

 

[[email protected]]

No chainfires in the last 32 years.
( all brands AND Models of revolvers were used)
Goex with grease over the ball.
Never used wads.

*** WV SCROUNGER ***

 

[Nightwind]

No chainfires in the 7 years I've been shooting revolvers. THOUSANDS of shots. I use Goex 3f, cornmeal, and grease on the end of the cylinder only to lubricate the ball as it goes through the barrel.

 

[Gary]

Anybody know if a Maynard Tape Primer revolver ever have a chainfire? If not, then we can rule out the flash jumping across the mouth of the cylinder theory (like one member proved with his flame experiment).

About the most loony "hair brain" explanation I can think of suggests that sufficient friction generated by powder moving within a cylinder can cause ignition. That is, if said grains are moving fast enough and there isn't filler material to prevent it, then the slamming of loose powder against the cylinder wall should cause ignition. This would be akin to striking with a steel hammer blackpowder that has been placed on an anvil. However, mere movement within a cylinder should not be enough to cause ignition and subsequent chainfires. Otherwise, virtually every BP revolver would chainfire if filler wasn't used and the rarity of chainfires suggest otherwise. It's just a hair brain concept that can't be right. I certainly would subscribe to it though (and I just thought of it) if someone would give me a grant equivalent to a year's salary to prove/disprove it. :haha:

I'm still with the loose percussion cap theory.

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

If there is enough room in the chamber to allow the powder to move around, you have a situation that is potentially more dangerous than a chain-fire. You've the stage for detonation, where ignition causes an explosion and bursts the chamber. You might well get a chain-fire too, although that would be the least of your concerns. The ball/projectile should always be seated firmly on the charge.
Given a properly fitting ball, it seems likely that chain-fires originate at the rear of the cylinder. And some revolvers may be more prone to the problem due to the configuration of the cylinder/cone area.

 

[Doc Arroyo]

no chain fires in 16 years with percussion revolvers. Multiple 1851's, 1860's, Walkers and a 1848 pocket. Always Goex, first five years with grease over the ball, Wonderwads ever since. Always a properly fitting ball with a full ring shaved off! CCI, Remington and German caps, whatever is available. Sometimes they were pinch fit.

I think I will now knock on the wooden table that I am sitting at!

 

[brubincam]

did anyone ever get a chain fire from a double barrel or turn barrel?

 

[2172]

had a chain fire in my Ruger Old Army. I loaded a wad over the fffg powder, and the ball with no lube over it. I'd done this for years with no problem. The stupid thing I did was run out of .457 balls, and decide I could substitute some (I think) .440's that I had in my box for my rifle...didn't shave a circle of lead off, of course, and gave me a chain fire on the first shot...no damage to me or the gun..3 chamebers went off, and one lost its ball through inertia,not fire! I have returned to lubing, and use water pump grease...over the ball which is over cream ofwheat which is over the wad....one chain fire is all I ever want..Hank

 

[WV_Hillbilly]

I really don't think that propellant type is related to the causing of a chain fire, but here's my information for you...

Chain fires - Once in 30yrs
1860 Colt Army .44 caliber (Navy Arms)
28gr Goex FFFg
Speer .451 ball
Navy Arms #11 caps
All six chambers were loaded
Crisco shortening smeared over all chambers
One extra chamber fired--it was the one adjecent to the left of the one under the hammer
There was NO damage to gun or shooter
I fired the rest of the cylinder with no problems

Shoot Safely!
WV_Hillbilly

 

[Rat]

I never had a chain fire in about 30 years. Most of those years I used Goex, and no wad or grease. Sometimes grease, sometimes not.

My first chain fire, which was recently, was with 777, which does not make sense to me as it's ignition temp is higher, but then again maybe it produces hotter flash and flame??

Anyhow, that chainfire was with no wad or grease, just ball and powder, in my 1860 Colt.

I fired five or six cylinders of 777 in my Remington Navy, and had no chainfires, used wads under the ball in that.

Rat

 

[merdean]

2 chainfires. Almost back to back. Same .36 Navy Arms, 1851 Navy. .380 RB. Pyrodex P - 15gr. Navy Arms #11 Caps. Crisco on all loads. - I had just run out of CCI caps and bought what was available at the local store. Never used Navy Arms caps since. Never had another chain fire. So...Yes, Pyrodex P, Crisco.