Cap Post - Brazed?

[Ray-Vigo]

Does anyone know of a guide to brazing or soldering into place a cap post for a pocket-sized colt (in this case the Uberti Pocket Police). I installed one using JB Weld and it worked for about 10 shots, then fouling caused the post to get caught up in the hammer slot and break off at the glue joint. I figure brazing or soldering it into place may be the only way to go. Anyone try this?

 

[hawkeye2]

Did you drill a hole for it or just epoxy it in place? Drill a hole and fix it in place with epoxy or solder.

 

[Ray-Vigo]

I did drill a hole with my drill press and then set with epoxy. The Pocket Police is is not very meaty around where the post is, and the epoxy did not hold. I guess brazing in place is the next place to go with it.

 

[Semisane]

I would give Devcon Plastic Steel Putty 10110 (not the epoxy - the putty). This stuff is amazingly strong. I've used it in a number of high stress applications and it has never failed. Waaay stronger than JB Weld.

 

[ZUG]

Does anyone know of a guide to brazing or soldering into place a cap post for a pocket-sized colt (in this case the Uberti Pocket Police). I installed one using JB Weld and it worked for about 10 shots, then fouling caused the post to get caught up in the hammer slot and break off at the glue joint. I figure brazing or soldering it into place may be the only way to go. Anyone try this?

Excuse my ignorance but what is a "cap post" :hmm: :idunno: ?

 

[Zonie]

Your not alone Zug.

I don't know what a "cap post" is either. :hmm:

 

[hawkeye2]

A small vertical post located in the hammer nose opening in the frame of Colt type revolvers. The slot in the nose of the hammer will go over it as it falls to strike the cap. When the hammer is cocked again the busted cap will hit the post rather than stick to the hammer nose and fall into the action.

 

[Ray-Vigo]

I'll look into that putty - sounds like it may be a good idea. On a Colt Navy, I imagine the job is easier because the frame has more meat where you can make the hole and seat the pin. The Pocket Police has a smaller frame and there's not enough metal there to "seat" the pin - just stick it into the hole and glue or braze into place.


A cap post/rake is indeed a small pin set into the frame where the hammer falls, which blocks spent caps from falling into the action of the Colt type revolver. My Navies don't need them - de-burr and smooth was enough to end cap jams 99% of the time. The Pocket Police continued to jam perhaps 40% of the time even after smoothing and de-burring. The cap post is a last resort for me.

 

[Lamonta]

I make mine 1/16" and drill the hole all of the way through so that they can be driven out if broken. I use JB Weld. I've only lost one, which I had made from a broken drill bit - way to brittle. I switched to 1/16 wire. JB Weld or other, be sure you degrease both the hole and the pin very thoroughly. I just today saw one where the hole was threaded and the pin screwed in. Going to investigate that.

 

[Ray-Vigo]

That's the best route I had up to the time this one broke. It was a 1/16 pin made from a broken drill bit. The JB Weld gave out. I may have the pin around in my shooting box somewhere. I drilled mine all the way through because there was no other option - very little metal at that point on the Pocket Police frame. I did de-grease the hole as you mention, but no dice after 10 shots.

I even had used a drill press to make Slix-Shot style vented nipples (also no help).

The whole thing was frustrating. I actually have not shot that revolver since, even though it's a fun shooter when it isn't pulling caps right into the action (which is about as often as not). My Navies are much better.

Maybe the metal putty is next, using the same method described above de-greasing the hole and setting a 1/16 wire pin. If that fails, then maybe only brazing can fix this.

 

[MSW]

photo would be nice, for us non- cognoscenti