1860 Colt Hammer Redo

[Rich44]

Looking at the hammer face on an original the colt 1860, it seems it is hitting the cone lower than on my replica colt. 1st picture (from internet) shows original 1860 with a lot of use. It can be seen that the round bearing surface for the cylinder to ride on has a flat on top side which allows the hammer face to be lower.

In picture #2 shows replica hammer face which is higher. The cylinder bearing surface is void of any flat on top.

Picture #3 shows a piece of aluminum tape applied to hammer face and allowed to drop on empty cone. To me it seems the cone is not getting full contact and that big slot shows right up.

So how to get a hit with a solid hammer and have it contact the cone completely lower is what I would like to try for. Have no idea if this will be beneficial or be just the opposite effect to not have the caps blow apart so much. I am also not a big fan of those magnum caps, but it is hard to get what you like nowadays. Seems to be very little information on the nitty gritty of the hammer cone relationship or just have trouble finding. Just filling the hammer slot with jb weld will not get the hammer any lower. So to get what I want a new hammer or hammer face will need to be made. Have no idea if they make different hammers to be bought, but I do have a spare stock hammer. So will go with a new hammer face using the spare hammer. While there might be some to say why go to all this work, especially since you have no idea if it will be better or worse. I can only answer that machine work started for me about the same time I started breathing and just cannot give up the habit on either yet. These replica's are made for our fun. So the following pictures will tell the steps that were chosen.

Picture #4 Placed a square ended rod in chuck so hammer could be positioned in vice.

Picture #5 milled the complete width of hammer back to the sight bossing. Milled .150 deep, which removed the slot in hammer face.

Picture #6 To be able to secure the new hammer face a 1/8 hole was made .200 deep. After looking at it change my mind and made it 5/32 dia. 200 deep. Now to start making the new part. Used 1/2" drill rod (o-1) and turned the 5/32 x slightly less than .200 front part so it will tap in place and bottom out on shoulder.

Picture #7 Put it in the spin index holder and milled all four sides to match the hammer dimensions.

Picture #8 Just checking to make sure the fit is correct.

Picture #9 The new piece has been cut off from the rod. Being held tight in vise the hammer is cross drilled .062" dia. to hold piece in place.

Picture #10 The little piece was too small to heat correctly and get pictures of color at the same time. But it was quenched at Allis Charmers orange/red and drawn back (gun metal blue) to my estimate of 52-54 rc.

Picture #11 Is now installed on hammer and cross pin has been tapped into place.

Picture #12 Have no idea how much needs to be ground off face now, so checking how much the hammer will push the cylinder forward while touching cone. Found out it pushed the cylinder .012 and my target is a .003 gap. So will take off .015 from hammer face.

Picture #13 Also have no idea if the new hammer face is right angel to the cone now. So knowing that the rear of the frame is right angle to the arbor. The frame was set on magnetic parallels with the hammer screw in place. Was able to hold up on hammer and transfer to that small little neat vice. (auctions are great for finding tools) Then by removing the hammer screw was able to reposition on chuck for grinding.

Picture #14 Getting a reading of the high spot with the indicator on a brass base.

Picture #15 Do not grind with the guard off. Except on rare occasions when the grinding very small pieces. And if you are not experienced not at all. The new piece is so small it takes little time. The set up takes longer. An interesting note is the little surface grinder spins 3450 rpm but yet the writing can be plainly seen on the wheel blotter, using electronic flash on camera.

Picture #16 The frame did require a very small amount of filing to allow hammer not to touch on the bottom front of face. But since the hammer lifts up and out it was only necessary on about 3/16" as seen. Have left the hammer face flat with no indent for safety pins being machined yet. Would like to try it that way first to see results. Like said at the beginning have no idea how this will work, but going to find out next time at the range. Still have the first hammer if necessary to fall back on. Also have replacement slix shot cones to try; this is turning out to be too much fun.

Picture # 17 New hammer is installed and ready. Everything functions as it should and the timing has not changed.

 

[Phil Coffins]

A man after my own heart, doing the hard stuff just because.

 

[ZUG]

A LOT of work there Rich44. I hope it works out for you. I see you are putting that neat little surface grinder to use.

 

[wiscoaster]

VERY nice job documenting your hammer face redo with both text and pics.

FWIW I'm bookmarking this thread.

 

[45D]

Looking at the hammer face on an original the colt 1860, it seems it is hitting the cone lower than on my replica colt. 1st picture (from internet) shows original 1860 with a lot of use. It can be seen that the round bearing surface for the cylinder to ride on has a flat on top side which allows the hammer face to be lower.

In picture #2 shows replica hammer face which is higher. The cylinder bearing surface is void of any flat on top.

Picture #3 shows a piece of aluminum tape applied to hammer face and allowed to drop on empty cone. To me it seems the cone is not getting full contact and that big slot shows right up.

View attachment 264536

So how to get a hit with a solid hammer and have it contact the cone completely lower is what I would like to try for. Have no idea if this will be beneficial or be just the opposite effect to not have the caps blow apart so much. I am also not a big fan of those magnum caps, but it is hard to get what you like nowadays. Seems to be very little information on the nitty gritty of the hammer cone relationship or just have trouble finding. Just filling the hammer slot with jb weld will not get the hammer any lower. So to get what I want a new hammer or hammer face will need to be made. Have no idea if they make different hammers to be bought, but I do have a spare stock hammer. So will go with a new hammer face using the spare hammer. While there might be some to say why go to all this work, especially since you have no idea if it will be better or worse. I can only answer that machine work started for me about the same time I started breathing and just cannot give up the habit on either yet. These replica's are made for our fun. So the following pictures will tell the steps that were chosen.

Picture #4 Placed a square ended rod in chuck so hammer could be positioned in vice.

Picture #5 milled the complete width of hammer back to the sight bossing. Milled .150 deep, which removed the slot in hammer face.

View attachment 264537

Picture #6 To be able to secure the new hammer face a 1/8 hole was made .200 deep. After looking at it change my mind and made it 5/32 dia. 200 deep. Now to start making the new part. Used 1/2" drill rod (o-1) and turned the 5/32 x slightly less than .200 front part so it will tap in place and bottom out on shoulder.

Picture #7 Put it in the spin index holder and milled all four sides to match the hammer dimensions.

View attachment 264542

Picture #8 Just checking to make sure the fit is correct.

Picture #9 The new piece has been cut off from the rod. Being held tight in vise the hammer is cross drilled .062" dia. to hold piece in place.

View attachment 264543

Picture #10 The little piece was too small to heat correctly and get pictures of color at the same time. But it was quenched at Allis Charmers orange/red and drawn back (gun metal blue) to my estimate of 52-54 rc.

Picture #11 Is now installed on hammer and cross pin has been tapped into place.

View attachment 264544

Picture #12 Have no idea how much needs to be ground off face now, so checking how much the hammer will push the cylinder forward while touching cone. Found out it pushed the cylinder .012 and my target is a .003 gap. So will take off .015 from hammer face.

Picture #13 Also have no idea if the new hammer face is right angel to the cone now. So knowing that the rear of the frame is right angle to the arbor. The frame was set on magnetic parallels with the hammer screw in place. Was able to hold up on hammer and transfer to that small little neat vice. (auctions are great for finding tools) Then by removing the hammer screw was able to reposition on chuck for grinding.

View attachment 264545

Picture #14 Getting a reading of the high spot with the indicator on a brass base.

Picture #15 Do not grind with the guard off. Except on rare occasions when the grinding very small pieces. And if you are not experienced not at all. The new piece is so small it takes little time. The set up takes longer. An interesting note is the little surface grinder spins 3450 rpm but yet the writing can be plainly seen on the wheel blotter, using electronic flash on camera.

View attachment 264546

Picture #16 The frame did require a very small amount of filing to allow hammer not to touch on the bottom front of face. But since the hammer lifts up and out it was only necessary on about 3/16" as seen. Have left the hammer face flat with no indent for safety pins being machined yet. Would like to try it that way first to see results. Like said at the beginning have no idea how this will work, but going to find out next time at the range. Still have the first hammer if necessary to fall back on. Also have replacement slix shot cones to try; this is turning out to be too much fun.

Picture # 17 New hammer is installed and ready. Everything functions as it should and the timing has not changed.

View attachment 264547

Nice job Rich44 !!
Mine hit firing pins which will degrade the hammer face. My answer was the same . . . I make a "firing plate" for my SA's.
This one was "inset" -

This one was mounted against the cut back face -

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

Looking at the hammer face on an original the colt 1860, it seems it is hitting the cone lower than on my replica colt. 1st picture (from internet) shows original 1860 with a lot of use. It can be seen that the round bearing surface for the cylinder to ride on has a flat on top side which allows the hammer face to be lower.

In picture #2 shows replica hammer face which is higher. The cylinder bearing surface is void of any flat on top.

Picture #3 shows a piece of aluminum tape applied to hammer face and allowed to drop on empty cone. To me it seems the cone is not getting full contact and that big slot shows right up.

View attachment 264536

So how to get a hit with a solid hammer and have it contact the cone completely lower is what I would like to try for. Have no idea if this will be beneficial or be just the opposite effect to not have the caps blow apart so much. I am also not a big fan of those magnum caps, but it is hard to get what you like nowadays. Seems to be very little information on the nitty gritty of the hammer cone relationship or just have trouble finding. Just filling the hammer slot with jb weld will not get the hammer any lower. So to get what I want a new hammer or hammer face will need to be made. Have no idea if they make different hammers to be bought, but I do have a spare stock hammer. So will go with a new hammer face using the spare hammer. While there might be some to say why go to all this work, especially since you have no idea if it will be better or worse. I can only answer that machine work started for me about the same time I started breathing and just cannot give up the habit on either yet. These replica's are made for our fun. So the following pictures will tell the steps that were chosen.

Picture #4 Placed a square ended rod in chuck so hammer could be positioned in vice.

Picture #5 milled the complete width of hammer back to the sight bossing. Milled .150 deep, which removed the slot in hammer face.

View attachment 264537

Picture #6 To be able to secure the new hammer face a 1/8 hole was made .200 deep. After looking at it change my mind and made it 5/32 dia. 200 deep. Now to start making the new part. Used 1/2" drill rod (o-1) and turned the 5/32 x slightly less than .200 front part so it will tap in place and bottom out on shoulder.

Picture #7 Put it in the spin index holder and milled all four sides to match the hammer dimensions.

View attachment 264542

Picture #8 Just checking to make sure the fit is correct.

Picture #9 The new piece has been cut off from the rod. Being held tight in vise the hammer is cross drilled .062" dia. to hold piece in place.

View attachment 264543

Picture #10 The little piece was too small to heat correctly and get pictures of color at the same time. But it was quenched at Allis Charmers orange/red and drawn back (gun metal blue) to my estimate of 52-54 rc.

Picture #11 Is now installed on hammer and cross pin has been tapped into place.

View attachment 264544

Picture #12 Have no idea how much needs to be ground off face now, so checking how much the hammer will push the cylinder forward while touching cone. Found out it pushed the cylinder .012 and my target is a .003 gap. So will take off .015 from hammer face.

Picture #13 Also have no idea if the new hammer face is right angel to the cone now. So knowing that the rear of the frame is right angle to the arbor. The frame was set on magnetic parallels with the hammer screw in place. Was able to hold up on hammer and transfer to that small little neat vice. (auctions are great for finding tools) Then by removing the hammer screw was able to reposition on chuck for grinding.

View attachment 264545

Picture #14 Getting a reading of the high spot with the indicator on a brass base.

Picture #15 Do not grind with the guard off. Except on rare occasions when the grinding very small pieces. And if you are not experienced not at all. The new piece is so small it takes little time. The set up takes longer. An interesting note is the little surface grinder spins 3450 rpm but yet the writing can be plainly seen on the wheel blotter, using electronic flash on camera.

View attachment 264546

Picture #16 The frame did require a very small amount of filing to allow hammer not to touch on the bottom front of face. But since the hammer lifts up and out it was only necessary on about 3/16" as seen. Have left the hammer face flat with no indent for safety pins being machined yet. Would like to try it that way first to see results. Like said at the beginning have no idea how this will work, but going to find out next time at the range. Still have the first hammer if necessary to fall back on. Also have replacement slix shot cones to try; this is turning out to be too much fun.

Picture # 17 New hammer is installed and ready. Everything functions as it should and the timing has not changed.

View attachment 264547

This has been going strong for about 25 years or so. It to is O-1 hardened and force 44 soldered in place. It doesn't contact the nipple.

 

[M. De Land]

Looking at the hammer face on an original the colt 1860, it seems it is hitting the cone lower than on my replica colt. 1st picture (from internet) shows original 1860 with a lot of use. It can be seen that the round bearing surface for the cylinder to ride on has a flat on top side which allows the hammer face to be lower.

In picture #2 shows replica hammer face which is higher. The cylinder bearing surface is void of any flat on top.

Picture #3 shows a piece of aluminum tape applied to hammer face and allowed to drop on empty cone. To me it seems the cone is not getting full contact and that big slot shows right up.

View attachment 264536

So how to get a hit with a solid hammer and have it contact the cone completely lower is what I would like to try for. Have no idea if this will be beneficial or be just the opposite effect to not have the caps blow apart so much. I am also not a big fan of those magnum caps, but it is hard to get what you like nowadays. Seems to be very little information on the nitty gritty of the hammer cone relationship or just have trouble finding. Just filling the hammer slot with jb weld will not get the hammer any lower. So to get what I want a new hammer or hammer face will need to be made. Have no idea if they make different hammers to be bought, but I do have a spare stock hammer. So will go with a new hammer face using the spare hammer. While there might be some to say why go to all this work, especially since you have no idea if it will be better or worse. I can only answer that machine work started for me about the same time I started breathing and just cannot give up the habit on either yet. These replica's are made for our fun. So the following pictures will tell the steps that were chosen.

Picture #4 Placed a square ended rod in chuck so hammer could be positioned in vice.

Picture #5 milled the complete width of hammer back to the sight bossing. Milled .150 deep, which removed the slot in hammer face.

View attachment 264537

Picture #6 To be able to secure the new hammer face a 1/8 hole was made .200 deep. After looking at it change my mind and made it 5/32 dia. 200 deep. Now to start making the new part. Used 1/2" drill rod (o-1) and turned the 5/32 x slightly less than .200 front part so it will tap in place and bottom out on shoulder.

Picture #7 Put it in the spin index holder and milled all four sides to match the hammer dimensions.

View attachment 264542

Picture #8 Just checking to make sure the fit is correct.

Picture #9 The new piece has been cut off from the rod. Being held tight in vise the hammer is cross drilled .062" dia. to hold piece in place.

View attachment 264543

Picture #10 The little piece was too small to heat correctly and get pictures of color at the same time. But it was quenched at Allis Charmers orange/red and drawn back (gun metal blue) to my estimate of 52-54 rc.

Picture #11 Is now installed on hammer and cross pin has been tapped into place.

View attachment 264544

Picture #12 Have no idea how much needs to be ground off face now, so checking how much the hammer will push the cylinder forward while touching cone. Found out it pushed the cylinder .012 and my target is a .003 gap. So will take off .015 from hammer face.

Picture #13 Also have no idea if the new hammer face is right angel to the cone now. So knowing that the rear of the frame is right angle to the arbor. The frame was set on magnetic parallels with the hammer screw in place. Was able to hold up on hammer and transfer to that small little neat vice. (auctions are great for finding tools) Then by removing the hammer screw was able to reposition on chuck for grinding.

View attachment 264545

Picture #14 Getting a reading of the high spot with the indicator on a brass base.

Picture #15 Do not grind with the guard off. Except on rare occasions when the grinding very small pieces. And if you are not experienced not at all. The new piece is so small it takes little time. The set up takes longer. An interesting note is the little surface grinder spins 3450 rpm but yet the writing can be plainly seen on the wheel blotter, using electronic flash on camera.

View attachment 264546

Picture #16 The frame did require a very small amount of filing to allow hammer not to touch on the bottom front of face. But since the hammer lifts up and out it was only necessary on about 3/16" as seen. Have left the hammer face flat with no indent for safety pins being machined yet. Would like to try it that way first to see results. Like said at the beginning have no idea how this will work, but going to find out next time at the range. Still have the first hammer if necessary to fall back on. Also have replacement slix shot cones to try; this is turning out to be too much fun.

Picture # 17 New hammer is installed and ready. Everything functions as it should and the timing has not changed.

View attachment 264547

Is the squared contour of the new hammer face going to fit into the round nipple port of the cylinder ? I believe the nipple cone top sets below the port height slightly.

 

[Rich44]

Is the squared contour of the new hammer face going to fit into the round nipple port of the cylinder ? I believe the nipple cone top sets below the port height slightly.

It is a strange thing, by eye you might think that would happen. So much that it was checked when it was being made. The recessed part for the cones is .380 wide and the hammer is .320 wide. So with that gap side to side and knowing the farther away from the pivot point the same amount of rotation will mean more movement. So with the bolt out and rotating the cylinder it will touch on top side walls of hammer and not allow it to touch where it looks like it would on the lower radius. Not sure why the stock hammer is radius so much on the bottom, it would never touch the cylinder in that respect. But you are absolutely correct in questioning that point. Thanks
But the hammer could have a bigger radius then I have installed. And if it is seen to be a benefit, will do. Which is easier than a undo.

 

[M. De Land]

It is a strange thing, by eye you might think that would happen. So much that it was checked when it was being made. The recessed part for the cones is .380 wide and the hammer is .320 wide. So with that gap side to side and knowing the farther away from the pivot point the same amount of rotation will mean more movement. So with the bolt out and rotating the cylinder it will touch on top side walls of hammer and not allow it to touch where it looks like it would on the lower radius. Not sure why the stock hammer is radius so much on the bottom, it would never touch the cylinder in that respect. But you are absolutely correct in questioning that point. Thanks
But the hammer could have a bigger radius then I have installed. And if it is seen to be a benefit, will do. Which is easier than a undo.

The hammer stop on these open frame guns is in the mid hammer web area against the frame over the arbor thread seat not any place on the nose of the hammer.
This is the reason I have my doubts about cutting into this area for a action shield purchase.

 

[Rich44]

The hammer stop on these open frame guns is in the mid hammer web area against the frame over the arbor thread seat not any place on the nose of the hammer.
This is the reason I have my doubts about cutting into this area for a action shield purchase.

I'm lost, do not know how this applies.

 

[45D]

The hammer stop on these open frame guns is in the mid hammer web area against the frame over the arbor thread seat not any place on the nose of the hammer.
This is the reason I have my doubts about cutting into this area for a action shield purchase.

The action shield mounts on the hammer, not on the frame.

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

I know. The area above the cut into the hammer for the shield purchase is the stop area I'm referring to that impacts the frame over the arbor thread. This cut into the case of the hammer skin ,under the impact stop area is why I don't think it a particularly good idea.

 

[45D]

I know. The area above the cut into the hammer for the shield purchase is the stop area I'm referring to that impacts the frame over the arbor thread. This cut into the case of the hammer skin ,under the impact stop area is why I don't think it a particularly good idea.

That's fine, never had a problem. Been one of the most requested upgrades for 5 1/2 yrs.
As far as the "case", there isn't one. They are "through" hardened as much as they are. Filing the hammers is a piece of cake!!

You'd probably really flip over this "lightened" " suitable for SASS " hammer.

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

That's fine, never had a problem. Been one of the most requested upgrades for 5 1/2 yrs.
As far as the "case", there isn't one. They are "through" hardened as much as they are. Filing the hammers is a piece of cake!!

You'd probably really flip over this "lightened" " suitable for SASS " hammer.
View attachment 264951

Mike

Originals of course were case hardened and reproductions feel to me like they may be differential hardened around the cocking notches . The hammer nose feels softer when filed or drilled than does the cocking notch area. At any rate case hardened or differential through hardening is susceptible to crack formation over time when stressed against a pressure angle. The hammer stop function of the web area of the hammer on the frame above the cut for the shield is a pressure point that sets up a stress riser in the shield cut of the hammer body.
Could be enough mass to prevent it but It doesn't look like very good stress engineering to me.

 

[45D]

Originals of course were case hardened and reproductions feel to me like they may be differential hardened around the cocking notches . The hammer nose feels softer when filed or drilled than does the cocking notch area. At any rate case hardened or differential through hardening is susceptible to crack formation over time when stressed against a pressure angle. The hammer stop function of the web area of the hammer on the frame above the cut for the shield is a pressure point that sets up a stress riser in the shield cut of the hammer body.
Could be enough mass to prevent it but It doesn't look like very good stress engineering to me.

Well, I don't know how much you know about "stress engineering" but that is one reason I make the cut to the hole ( hole is drilled first). Drilling a hole is generally how one stops a crack, not starts one. The other reason for the hole is so that the brass sheet can be rolled into a sort of "roll pin" as a "keeper" for the shield. It can then be slid out for cleaning and easily reinstalled.
The first shields were installed on competition guns ( several hundred at this point) and pretty much all customer guns since then with no failures to date.
Of course one shouldn't dry fire a cap gun or most center fire/ rim fire SA revolvers without a "cushioning" device ( caps or snap-caps). That softens the blow and prevents damage just as the actual firing of the revolver does. Since my hammer draws are typically 4lbs or less, there is even less force to cause damage (imagine the 8lb hammers!!!).

Mike

 

[Rich44]

The hammer stop on these open frame guns is in the mid hammer web area against the frame over the arbor thread seat not any place on the nose of the hammer.
This is the reason I have my doubts about cutting into this area for a action shield purchase.

OK, tend to understand maybe what you are referring to now. All the different modifications that can be dreamed up by man some of them maybe from a stress point may weaken the hammer. And all of us probably have different views on what is acceptable and not to alter. From a lifelong ambition of designing and making tools I can assure you that 45D's way of installing an action shield is completely safe and will not weaken the hammer to any degree that would cause concern at the least. It may be on my to do list soon, as the benefit of an action shield is easy to understand.

I do understand your worry point and in a trouble shooting meeting your view points would be invaluable in presenting the safe side. But it is thought by me; you may be overboard and as for example your theory that if the wedge is not a tight fit top and bottom the force of the bullet going down the barrel would bend or snap the 2 barrel alignment pins. Just do not think you have looked at it properly in that the center of rotation force is the center of the barrel. Therefore that force would need to bend or snap off the arbor and the alignment pins. And that is just not going to happen. But like was said before you bring out good points that need to be reviewed. To be part of the checks and balances. Thanks

 

[M. De Land]

OK, tend to understand maybe what you are referring to now. All the different modifications that can be dreamed up by man some of them maybe from a stress point may weaken the hammer. And all of us probably have different views on what is acceptable and not to alter. From a lifelong ambition of designing and making tools I can assure you that 45D's way of installing an action shield is completely safe and will not weaken the hammer to any degree that would cause concern at the least. It may be on my to do list soon, as the benefit of an action shield is easy to understand.

I do understand your worry point and in a trouble shooting meeting your view points would be invaluable in presenting the safe side. But it is thought by me; you may be overboard and as for example your theory that if the wedge is not a tight fit top and bottom the force of the bullet going down the barrel would bend or snap the 2 barrel alignment pins. Just do not think you have looked at it properly in that the center of rotation force is the center of the barrel. Therefore that force would need to bend or snap off the arbor and the alignment pins. And that is just not going to happen. But like was said before you bring out good points that need to be reviewed. To be part of the checks and balances. Thanks

Well, I don't know how much you know about "stress engineering" but that is one reason I make the cut to the hole ( hole is drilled first). Drilling a hole is generally how one stops a crack, not starts one. The other reason for the hole is so that the brass sheet can be rolled into a sort of "roll pin" as a "keeper" for the shield. It can then be slid out for cleaning and easily reinstalled.
The first shields were installed on competition guns ( several hundred at this point) and pretty much all customer guns since then with no failures to date.
Of course one shouldn't dry fire a cap gun or most center fire/ rim fire SA revolvers without a "cushioning" device ( caps or snap-caps). That softens the blow and prevents damage just as the actual firing of the revolver does. Since my hammer draws are typically 4lbs or less, there is even less force to cause damage (imagine the 8lb hammers!!!).

Mike

I know you have seen a string of holes in steel at one time or another made to stop a crack. It does help but is a last resort and certainly no guarantee.

All I ever said about wedge fit vertically is that it supports the lug pins against torque, never said they were in danger of being bent or snapped off plus the added benefit of good parallel vertical fit helping the wedge not to back out. Good fit always makes sense to my mind and so I take the time to do so.
The cut for the shield below the stop impact area does set up a stress riser and weaken the hammer design to some degree and to this point I don't feel the benefit of a shield to block a cap jamb worth the potential risk if the model has no history of needing the modification.
A hole alone without the deep cut into it would not set up a stress riser.
I have never had a cap jamb in any model I own but the new Walker, that a shield would have prevented. Except for the cut below the stress point I like the shield modification idea and am considering it in the Walker which gave me my first ever cap jamb a shield would have prevented.

 

[M. De Land]

Well, I don't know how much you know about "stress engineering" but that is one reason I make the cut to the hole ( hole is drilled first). Drilling a hole is generally how one stops a crack, not starts one. The other reason for the hole is so that the brass sheet can be rolled into a sort of "roll pin" as a "keeper" for the shield. It can then be slid out for cleaning and easily reinstalled.
The first shields were installed on competition guns ( several hundred at this point) and pretty much all customer guns since then with no failures to date.
Of course one shouldn't dry fire a cap gun or most center fire/ rim fire SA revolvers without a "cushioning" device ( caps or snap-caps). That softens the blow and prevents damage just as the actual firing of the revolver does. Since my hammer draws are typically 4lbs or less, there is even less force to cause damage (imagine the 8lb hammers!!!).

Mike

I know you have seen a string of holes at one time or another (usually sheet metal) in steel to stop a crack. It does tend to slow it down for a time but certainly is no guarantee.

 

[M. De Land]

That's fine, never had a problem. Been one of the most requested upgrades for 5 1/2 yrs.
As far as the "case", there isn't one. They are "through" hardened as much as they are. Filing the hammers is a piece of cake!!

You'd probably really flip over this "lightened" " suitable for SASS " hammer.
View attachment 264951

Mike

l really like seeing the mods and listening to your ideas as it certainly is expanding my own thinking and admittedly conservative views of this fascinating hobby.

 

[Rich44]

Finally got to fire some shots out of the 1860. Good news, no cap jams but some of the caps were split wide open. They were able to make it to the next station after cocking. I am sure not a fan of the magnum caps as they seem to be so powerful. Had the cylinder with half tresco and half slix shot cones. The slix shots really banana peel 3 sections and just make thru the right side frame cut out. I will say, one of the biggest changes that was liked were the caps remain flat were they are struck. And that stopped the caps tearing them self in pieces and forming all sorts of weird shapes.

The safety pins on the cylinder are around .045 dia. and I still need to drill a recess for safety pins in the hammer face. When the face of the hammer is going to be machined for the safety pins the dia. will be about .062 and only .030 deep is needed. That is big difference from the huge slot on the original hammer which seems to be way too much. And the caps get blown all out of shape. I will also say just snapping a cap on a unloaded cylinder looks about the same as when shot with a loaded cylinder. While it had no cap jams, It sure looked like it could have on some occasions. Want to try the original cones as they have a bigger flash hole, just to see the results they produce. If the right combination of cone, hammer impact including hammer spring, and caps can improve good functioning.