browning barrels

[Pasquinel]

First, how long should a good browning job last? Next is
there any one brand of browning solution that is far superior to the others on the market. Also has anyone heard
about filing the points on an octagon barrel flat to help
hold the browning? :what:

 

[brushbuster]

depending on humidity a good browning job can take from three days to three weeks .i used laurel mtn browning soloution and i am very pleased with its results.
as far as filing down the points ,i do not reccommend doing that .i dont want to take any more metal off than necessary.on top of that you want those lines to show nice and clear ...unless you wanted a round barrel? :: ::

 

[Birddog6]

It all depends on the browning solution you use & the humidity. I use Tru-Brown and I do the 24 hr method & have wonderful results with it. (Tru-Brown is no longer on the market)
I wait til I know it is going to rain for at least 2 days. Prepare on the first day while the humidity is raising. Second day I apply the first coat of regent & then I card with a "Dixcel Wheel" from Brownells & reapply. I do that application & carding for 6-7-8 times til I get the deep rich dark brown I want. I have done allot of rifles this way & have always had good success with it. It takes me 21 to 28 hours to do a barrel, lock & all the trim. :thumbsup:

Clenliness if Most Important. Remember anything you touch with the gloves is contaminated, such as the door knob after cleaning guns the night before & leaving the room, etc.

I am told the Laural Mountain stuff is good but have never used it. I use Plumb Brown one time & still have nightmares from the results....

 

[rich pierce]

All good advice. Regarding filing the corners of the octagon- these are natural wear points and someday you'll appreciate seeing the browning worn off of them. It will show the gun has been used. many guns are now being built with a bit of "patina" on them, as if the gun has had good care but real use. This is one of the "tricks" to developing a patina on a browned barrel- rub the browning off on the corners and the high points on a rear sight, etc.

 

[dant]

I like Laurel Mtn. It has a degreaser in the formula. You can handle the barrel and parts during the browning process.I'm browning a barrel right now and running a humiidifier next to the barrel and parts. Here in Utah the relative humidity is very low.

 

[BLAHMAN]

Sometimes I use a cold brown solution (Laurel Mountain) and other times I use a hot brown solution (Birchwood casey). I even used Birchwood Casey's cold blue like a hot brown foer some very differnt affects. The early guns I built using hot brown solution show definate wear marks from use, the cold brown ones appear to be more durable.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

I like Laurel Mtn. It has a degreaser in the formula. You can handle the barrel and parts during the browning process.I'm browning a barrel right now and running a humiidifier next to the barrel and parts. Here in Utah the relative humidity is very low.

You are so right, here in Arizona along the Colorado River one must use the cold brown during the monsoon season of high humidity, or, use the ubiquitous swamper. (evaporative cooler)

I have a swamper in the garage and can do a Laurel Mountain brown job in 24 hours, results to date after several uses have exceeded expectations.

Could not agree more with Birddog6 about the difficulties of using the BC Plumb Brown. Heat and application for good results borders on the occult, complete with appropriate lamentations and beseeching of the browning gods. I used to have my best luck by applying just enough heat to produce the slightest sizzle, then saturate a glob of steel wool with the solution and scrub it in like hell, maintaining the desired heat all the while.

 

I used BC Perma Blue. Just wiped it on my cold barrel per the directions and applied it about 3 times. Now that poor barrel had been browned, then removed with blue and rust remover and left in the white and finally I used the Perma Blue looking for an authentic look. I feel that I achieved that goal.

The BC Plum Brown left light patches and was very thin and blotchy, I had a tough time getting it heated evenly with my crappy propane torch.

 

[Bushwhacker]

unless you wanted a round barrel

Good one ha ha LMAO :redthumb:

 

[fatboy]

I have had good success with the LMF cold brown . Dont polish your flats real smooth or round your corners . I have found that if you polish your barrel it takes abit to get browning started IMHO let it a bit on the rough side. I apply the cold brown let it set for 6 -8 hrs apply a coat, 4hrs later another coat ,4hrs another and let that last coat stand for 4 to 6 hrs that should realy do it clean up per instrucions. I do not card off in between and find that I have a real dark finish seams to be very durable. I 've read where you can build your self a rust box have 60 watt bulb for heat and a damp rag in the bottom prop your barrel up in it and small parts close the lid and ckeck it out in a day see where your at never tried it but sound interesting . :yakyak: