Brown a frizzen

[410-er]

Sent my Durs Egg lock back to L@R to be fitted with a new frizzen.Came back fine but need to have it browned to match the lock.
Know of anyone in SE Lanc. co. Pa that could do it or is this something I could try?

 

[Black Hand]

Easily done at home, though you will need to purchase some cold browning solution.

 

[Rusty_Nail]

If your Durs Egg was done by Bill or Tim at L&R, why not mail the frizzen back? I know it's $20.00 for a lock browning when you buy from them, not sure if its less for a frizzen.

If you want to try to match it yourself, they use Laurel Mt. Forge Browning Regent and Degreaser.

And directions are here on the forums.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/212853/

 

[410-er]

I only wish I knew it was going to be unbrowned.Would have GLADLY paid extra when it was there to have it done.

 

[Rusty_Nail]

The options at L&R are browned, blued, or in the white.

 

[54ball]

Just a thought....

Bear with me on this example. I was in a discussion about WWII rifles, mainly Garands. Many of these have been restored through the years. The jest of our conversation was this. Many of the parts of these rifles have been restored "repakerized" to the same overall color for all the parts. This was not so originally as many components were were different colors. So trying to remake a rifle to authentic, they have lessened it.

On your rifle you can do what you want and be fine either way but know that frizzens were re hardened and replaced back in the era, so letting it age naturally is a historical option for you.

 

[stinkyfeet]

Laurel Mountain is the cold browning solution I use. You can buy it from Jim Chambers and have it in a few days. Its easy you don't even have to degrease the frizzen. lightly scuff it up with 320 grit or a scotch pad lightly whipe it down and let it sit for until it gets a light redish rust to it, rinse with hot water dry and reapply as necessary until you get the color you need once there hot water again and baking soda to stop the process. Dry and coat with motor oil over night. Whip dry and your down. Remember when the oils put on it will darken up a lot.

 

[jdkerstetter]

....so letting it age naturally is a historical option for you.

I agree Travis....or better yet, clean up the rest of the lock. I don't believe locks were browned on original work, they were cased hardened and polished back or left gray/black. Any browning you see on antique locks today is from age.

:stir: Browning is for barrels not locks. J.M.H.O. :thumbsup: Enjoy, J.D.

 

[Zonie]

IMO the frizzen could be left in the white, browned or blued.

As the OP wasn't thrilled at the natural white condition probably the easiest thing to do is to use a cold bluing product to blue the forward area.
No, it won't match the browned lockplate but it won't stick out like a sore thumb either.

The cold browning solution is the safest method to use to brown it but it takes a few days and a humid environment to get the rust to form.

Birchwood Casey Plum Brown could be used without harming the temper of the frizzen but great care needs to be used to not overheat the part while doing this.

The BC Plum Brown requires the part to be heated to 285 degrees F. As the solution is applied it almost instantly forms the brown coating.

The problem with this is the thin frizzen is very easy to overheat.
If this is done not only won't the PB work but if the temperature exceeds 450 degrees some tempering or "drawing" of the hardness will occur.

 

[Birddog6]

If you didn't specifically tell them to brown it, they are not going to.

You can do it yourself in a couple days. Jug, water, Tru-Brown or Laural Mtn, sun & window sill & 90 deg weather. After it browns sufficiently, rub it down, neutralize it, oil it, put it on & go shoot it.



Keith Lisle

PS: I would not heat it to brown it, may mess up a the temper in the frizzen & start more issues with the lock.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Agree.
But, if you are determined to brown it, go ahead.
For such a small part the remailing and cost is, IMHO, not justified.
You dispose of ample quantities of browning solution daily. Just apply a bit of genuine homo sapiens solution to the back of the frizzen, when browned to your satisfaction rinse and neutralize. No cost.

 

[rafterob]

Might take awhile to achieve the desired effect by peeing on it. I prefer the BC Plum Brown for parts. It is fast and easy. Parts may be heated in the oven and no worry about overheating, let the oven thermostat control that.

 

[410-er]

I sent my e-mail address along with phone numbers.Kinda wish they would have called me to see if I wanted it to match the lock or not.
Like stated not really cost efective to send it back after spending $28.50 for the replacement and $3 for initional ship.Just looks odd with a white frizzen and brown lock.

 

[Rusty_Nail]

I would call and ask them if they could brown one awhile, and you send yours. Then they send the browned one back. Tell them something like, "I wish you would have asked, because the lock was browned by you, and I assumed you would check and know that!

Maybe they will cut you a price break. Like I said, a whole lock is $20.00.

 

[Billnpatti]

Keith lisle has a really great way to brown small parts such as your frizzen. However, I would say that you will need to apply several coats of Laural Mountain Forge (my absolute favorite browning solution). If you try to brown your part with only one coat, it will give you a rough browning. If you apply several coats at various times with washing and carding between coats and watching so as not to allow the browning to turn into an etched surface, you will end up with a very nice brown. BTW, I really like Keith's idea of using a clear jug with water in the bottom and sitting in a sunny window as a way to brown a small part. Just do it in several coats and not in just one.

 

[Rifleman1776]

ht take awhile to achieve the desired effect

I have never considered browning an instant process. Might be something that does that. Really, I dunno. :idunno:
Process I suggested is cheap, comes in a convenient container and has a very handy dispenser. Best of all it works (with a little time) and some will like the fact that it is 'authentic'. :wink: :applause:

 

[Birddog6]

I didn't state all of that, because it says that in the instructions that comes with the solution.
I do all of my carding with a Dixcel Wheel at about 900 RPM. Gives a very nice smooth textured brown result. Must be very careful with small parts, as wheel will grab the small part & send it to work shop never-never land.

Keith Lisle

 

[Billnpatti]

Which Dixcel wheel do you use? I looked up Dixcel and found that they make many different buffing and polishing wheels. Also, what polishing or buffing compound, if any, do you use on your wheel when browning a part? I've never used a wheel, I just wash the part in water and rub it thoroughly with burlap if I have it or a piece of coarse canvas. Then I apply my next coat of Laurel Mountain Forge Browning solution until I get the brown that I want. Next time around I may want to give your Dixcel wheel a try. Thanks, Keith.

 

[Robert Losekamp]

If you didn't specifically tell them to brown it, they are not going to.

You can do it yourself in a couple days. Jug, water, Tru-Brown or Laural Mtn, sun & window sill & 90 deg weather. After it browns sufficiently, rub it down, neutralize it, oil it, put it on & go shoot it.



Keith Lisle

PS: I would not heat it to brown it, may mess up a the temper in the frizzen & start more issues with the lock.

@Adam in WI