• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Mulling over a Couple of Possible Projects

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Aug 22, 2020
Messages
2,663
Reaction score
3,620
Location
Duke City
I've been thinking about it off and on for a while now.

First is picking up a inletted Pecatonica Transitional stock with the matching Davis Jaeger lock and probably the trigger also and moving the other hardware over from my reworked H&A Minuteman.

The other is doing pretty much the same with my Pedersoli Pennsylvania and putting it on a Lehigh County stock. The Pedersoli lock would be replaced with a L&R Durs Egg.

I wonder how feasible it would be.
 
The biggest potential problem I see is lining up the touch holes with the pans. So as a hypothetical if they don't line up (and there's room) how feasible would it be to seal the existing touch hole and drill a new one? Uummmmmm.........
 
I've been thinking about it off and on for a while now.

First is picking up a inletted Pecatonica Transitional stock with the matching Davis Jaeger lock and probably the trigger also and moving the other hardware over from my reworked H&A Minuteman.

The other is doing pretty much the same with my Pedersoli Pennsylvania and putting it on a Lehigh County stock. The Pedersoli lock would be replaced with a L&R Durs Egg.

I wonder how feasible it would be.
 
I built this almost exact rifle.I used a chamber round faced lock though,i have them o n a couple rifles and liked the looks,aftward i did think maybe should use the jager one ,but its fine,Never had aprblem with touch holes lining up,never! used a lot of their stocks,,have had good luck always,,,mickey
 
Just get the stock without the lock inlet, then you can inlet the lock to match the touch hole location.
 
Just get the stock without the lock inlet, then you can inlet the lock to match the touch hole location.
This is good advise if you want to get it finished, if you're too lazy to inlet a lock you are way too lazy to figure out what all is wrong and how to correct an improper lock location and then do it. WAY harder than inletting to begin with.
 
This is good advise if you want to get it finished, if you're too lazy to inlet a lock you are way too lazy to figure out what all is wrong and how to correct an improper lock location and then do it. WAY harder than inletting to begin with.
Yeah I know, I'm just a terrible person......... Oh no, I'm too lazy to do it your way!!!! I can't figure it out!!! Oh woe is me!!!!!

Really?

(Psst!! It's spelled advice not advise).
 
Sorry if that sounded condescending, I didn't mean it that way, so I will expand a little.

I meant that inletting a lock is easier than fixing an improper lock location. It seems like more work to inlet the lock but in actuality it will probably be less work and faster to completion. I am one of the laziest people I know and that's how I would do it. I would get the stock shaped with barrel channel and ramrod hole only, and inlet the lock AND the trigger myself to save time and effort.

To expand a little more, if the lock inlet location isn't in the right place you have to put it in the right place, and usually that means moving the barrel and tang, after you figure out what directionS and how much, and what else isn't going to be where it should be after you do it. The other option is to glue in wood and move the lock, unless you have wood that matches exactly (you don't get any with a precarve) and are an extremely good woodworker it will be obvious that this was done on top of being harder to refit than to fit once reasonably well. You need to be sure of everything and have a plan at this point. Moving the barrel down and back (if you're lucky it will need to go down and back) so that the lock lines up properly is WAY more work, the tang bending and inletting needed to accommodate the barrel move can get tricky too, and if it isn't a straight tang the result is likely going to suck without a ton of work on the tang. If the barrel needs to go up and/or forward in the stock you will have to use bedding to get it up and forward, relatively simple if you're familiar with bedding. If you can't stretch the tang enough to have it fit properly you have to cut and weld the tang to get the additional length and then refit it after you get it straight again. If the lock wasn't in the right place to begin with the odds of the trigger inlet being right on are low too, and that opens another can of worms. All of the above have additional considerations for overall stock geometry, what it should be vs what it has to be to accommodate the 'fixes' you had to make to get it to work. Yes sir, I will take the easy path on this one, you can fool me once but it's rare to get me twice.
 
Sorry if that sounded condescending, I didn't mean it that way, so I will expand a little.

I meant that inletting a lock is easier than fixing an improper lock location. It seems like more work to inlet the lock but in actuality it will probably be less work and faster to completion. I am one of the laziest people I know and that's how I would do it. I would get the stock shaped with barrel channel and ramrod hole only, and inlet the lock AND the trigger myself to save time and effort.

To expand a little more, if the lock inlet location isn't in the right place you have to put it in the right place, and usually that means moving the barrel and tang, after you figure out what directionS and how much, and what else isn't going to be where it should be after you do it. The other option is to glue in wood and move the lock, unless you have wood that matches exactly (you don't get any with a precarve) and are an extremely good woodworker it will be obvious that this was done on top of being harder to refit than to fit once reasonably well. You need to be sure of everything and have a plan at this point. Moving the barrel down and back (if you're lucky it will need to go down and back) so that the lock lines up properly is WAY more work, the tang bending and inletting needed to accommodate the barrel move can get tricky too, and if it isn't a straight tang the result is likely going to suck without a ton of work on the tang. If the barrel needs to go up and/or forward in the stock you will have to use bedding to get it up and forward, relatively simple if you're familiar with bedding. If you can't stretch the tang enough to have it fit properly you have to cut and weld the tang to get the additional length and then refit it after you get it straight again. If the lock wasn't in the right place to begin with the odds of the trigger inlet being right on are low too, and that opens another can of worms. All of the above have additional considerations for overall stock geometry, what it should be vs what it has to be to accommodate the 'fixes' you had to make to get it to work. Yes sir, I will take the easy path on this one, you can fool me once but it's rare to get me twice.
Sorry, I could have just let it slide but I guess I'm feeling a little "feisty" this morning........... :)

I discovered after buying my very first Pecatonica "kit" how much I hated inletting, in fact I sold it at a loss mostly unfinished after it sat for years in a closet. Guess I expected it to be more of a Pedersoli type kit which I was familiar with, oops.......
Besides, these are projects I simply think about from time to time to "upgrade" the two rifles mentioned so I'm getting info this time. Heck I might never do either. If I ever do another kit it would probably be a Kibler but currently my projects are house related and unmentionable (1911) mods.
 
Stay away from the Lehigh styled stock. Most of them are built with poor architecture. The only way to get a properly proportioned Lehigh is to build at least 3 of them first yourself.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top