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Advice on Fix

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Pigpopper

32 Cal.
Joined
Oct 31, 2010
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Location
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I stumbled on a badly pitted muzzle loader barrel in a gun shop. The bore looks to be in very good condition so I started collecting pieces for the CVS (Spain) 28" .50 caliber barrel. I want to make a working CVA .50 caliber rifle then build my own stock so I purchased a stock with much of the hardware, including the tang. When I placed the barrel in the stock, the tang does not fit the barrel correctly. I have not been able to find a parts list on line.

In the attached photo, you can see where the breech plug is engaged with the tang but the barrel is too far forward.

Any suggestions on how to locate the correct tang?

Thanks,
 

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CVA used two different tang/breechplug styles one called a ‘button’ tang and the other a ‘hooked’ breech type . Looks like you have the hooked breech barrel and the button breeched tang. Deer Creek probably has what you need. If not, head over to evil-bay.
 
take the tang off the stock see how it fits the barrel; if it does you will need to remove wood from the stock where it is keeping the male portion from fitting all the way
 
Thank you for the replies. Here are pics of the tang and barrel hook.
 

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I need to pickup some sights. Where do you measure the dovetail on the barrel - at the top or at the bottom of the dove tail cutout?
 
Thanks but I ordered one today. If it doesn't work, I may reach out to you.
When you get it,, you may still need to remove wood behind the tang to accept the depth of the hook.
Ya know? Kind of a hole in there so the hook goes deep enough.
The key is to make sure the tang fits the hook/barrel outside of the stock,, then install the two pieces together in the wood.
 
When you get it,, you may still need to remove wood behind the tang to accept the depth of the hook.
Ya know? Kind of a hole in there so the hook goes deep enough.
The key is to make sure the tang fits the hook/barrel outside of the stock,, then install the two pieces together in the wood.

Got it. Thanks!
 
Ran into another problem. When I mounted the spring, the hammer will not go to full cock position because the small "follower" (Don't know what its called. When fired, it prevents the tumbler from catching at half cock.) will not clear. I think one option it to file down the end of the spring that contacts the tumbler so the tumbler will roll up a little further. It worked fine with out the main spring installed. Any suggestions?
 

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I discovered the name. Its called the fly.
The "fly" is the small, movable piece in the tumbler that is there to block off the half cock notch. It is very necessary if the gun has double set triggers.

The way it works is, when the hammer is in the fired position (down) the nose of the sear is resting against the outside of the tumbler. It is held there by the force of the sear spring.

If you slowly cock the hammer, the nose of the sear will bump into the fly, pushing it back and exposing the half cock notch. You will hear the sear snap into the half cock notch when this happens. If you slowly release the pressure on the hammer letting it move slightly downward, the nose of the sear will fall into the half cock notch and stop the downward movement of the hammer. The gun is now in the "half cock" position.

If you then cock the hammer further towards the full cock position, the nose of the sear will pull out of the half cock notch and ride over the top of the fly allowing the hammer to move further towards the full cock notch.

When the nose of the sear reaches the full cock notch, it should snap into the notch, preventing the hammer from falling until the trigger is pulled or the set triggers are released.

If the gun is being fired with the set triggers, pulling the front trigger will release the spring loaded rear trigger. The rear trigger will then move rapidly forward momentarily driving the blade on the top of it into the sear arm. The impact of the blade on the sear will temporarily knock the nose of the sear out of the full cock notch allowing the hammer to fall.

Almost as soon as the hammer is released, the sear spring will push the nose of the sear back against the outside of the, now rotating tumbler.

As the tumbler rotates and the hammer is falling, the half cock notch will be rapidly approaching the nose of the sear. If there is nothing there to stop it, the nose of the sear will go into the half cock notch, stopping the hammer's fall. That is when the fly does its job.

As the nose of the sear hits the fly it rotates it forward, covering the half cock notch so the sear can't enter it.
Faced with the fly being in the way, the nose of the sear rides up, over the fly, jumping over the half cock notch and allowing the tumbler to continue to rotate until the hammer hits the cap or the flint hits the frizzen.

Now, after reading this and thinking about it you can see why the fly is important if the gun has set triggers.

For guns that do not have set triggers, the fly isn't needed.
That is because, the amount of force a finger needs to cause the sear to be released from the full cock notch is great enough to overcome the pressure of the sear spring and keep the nose of the sear well away from the outside of the rotating tumbler as the hammer falls. With the finger still pulling on the trigger there is little chance of the nose of the sear being anywhere close to the half cock notch as it whizzes past.

As for your lock not going to full cock, I have seen cases where a newly installed mainspring was slightly too long and it hung up on the front side of the tumbler when the tumbler was being cocked.
If this is happening some slow, careful grinding of the material on the very end of the spring where it is hitting the tumbler can fix the problem.
Another "fix" is to remove just a little bit of material from the outside of the tumbler right above the part that sticks out of the tumbler that the spring is pushing against.
This is a bit safer than trying to grind on the spring because any scratches that are left on the spring can cause a "stress riser" that will eventually crack.
In any case, if either the spring or the tumbler are ground on you should make every effort to remove any traces of scratches that are on the ground surface.
 
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