Fitting the Rear sight

It seems natural that the rear sight is longer than the dovetail. Also, it has a small tab on the back end to lock into the rear of the dovetail.
For it to fit tight and proper should it be filed from the front ? Or file the locking tab on the rear or the sight ?

I don't understand what locking tab it is.

General rule: work/file on the part that costs the least to replace. When putting in sights, I will make a dovetail slot on the barrel, and fit the sight to the dovetail slot.

Not knowing what your sight looks like, I would file whatever part of the dovetail pin on the sight you have better access to.

GriscomRun said:

It seems natural that the rear sight is longer than the dovetail. Also, it has a small tab on the back end to lock into the rear of the dovetail.
For it to fit tight and proper should it be filed from the front ? Or file the locking tab on the rear or the sight ?

Click to expand...

A photo of the sight would help. The tab you describe sounds like the casting tab that needs removal.

Hard to understand what you mean by "lock tab" All the sights that I've seen were just an angled dovetail on both front and rear on the sight. How about a picture?

Here is the sight. Might be too close for the camera. But I'm trying to show the small step on the bottom of the rear sight. It looks like it's a locking tab to seat against the rear of the dovetail. I'm wondering, to make the sight fit properly, do I file the front of the sight base so the rear seats against the dovetail ?
Or, maybe it doesn't matter. Maybe just file one edge / side of that until it will start to fit then drive it in.

The bottom of the sight base needs to be filed smooth, no raised casting marks. Then make your length corrections by filing/grinding the front edge of the base. Mark the length you want clearly and check it against the dovetail as you get closer to the mark. Work slow and check often or you can easily end up short.

TDM.... Perfect. It's a new Kibler taller rear. No casting or machine marks on the base. But I did notice that tiny angled tab on the rear as seen in the photo. I believe that is there to lock the base into the dovetail and I did not want to take it off.
SO, I'm taking you advise and will file slowly off the front to get it close to fitting.

Thank you Sir.

GriscomRun said:

TDM.... Perfect. It's a new Kibler taller rear. No casting or machine marks on the base. But I did notice that tiny angled tab on the rear as seen in the photo. I believe that is there to lock the base into the dovetail and I did not want to take it off.
SO, I'm taking you advise and will file slowly off the front to get it close to fitting.

Thank you Sir.

Click to expand...

I wasn't able to see a tab. The rear appeared to already have the correct angle to match the dovetail. So yes, don't remove the angled section. But you should polish it out some, use a honing stone or 400-600 grit sandpaper backed by a piece of wood. You just want the mating surface smooth. Also, as with all things made by the fine folks at Kibler, call them and ask any pertinent questions that you have. Glad I was able to help a little.