Advice Needed

necchi said:

OMG, (?) you say that while offering advise in this topic?

i'd weld it,, by a friend or neighbor that you know. It will take refitment,. Honest, your asking about a kibler that's a fubar, but only from a kit source.
It's on you, can it be fixed.(?) Sure. Want it done next week?
You built it,, you decide.
Share the lessons,,

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Your kindly advice is always appreciated.

IanH said:

Metal breaks in one of two ways: either it is stressed beyond its elastic limit by gross movement, or its elastic limit is reduced to zero at the weakest point by repetitive, minor movements.

The weakest point may be a premature failure point by design or manufacturing process (stress risers), defect of material (inclusion), or a symptom of another defect in the system (more movement allowed at the weakest point than it is designed to tolerate).

It would do to remove the barrel and broken tang tip from the stock and examine the break and all of the recoil contact points of the breech and tang very closely or it may happen again. If the end grain crushed a little at the breech, that might be your real problem.

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Yes, there’s a bind somewhere for sure.

Honestly, I would find the bind and then fix it, either hump in the wood or bent tang caused it to break. Then weld it, and then possibly add an oversized washer and file that to fit? Without looking at it those would be my initial thoughts. I’m sure Jim will do right by you.

TDM said:

Your kindly advice is always appreciated.

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Notice he didn't volunteer any services.

Of course not, he built it himself, how could I offer service?
7,000 posts, 17,000 likes. in 18 months.
Over-tightened a tang screw once on your own custom build and your lost.(?)
Again, your going to have too re-fit the fractured tang after it's repaired with welding. It's NOT going to be an easy drop in.
Your photo's indicates that the tang screw inlet at the tang itself is deep
Best advice is keep the metal proud, then bring it down to the finish of the wood, with multiple applications /attempts at fitting.
Recovering the metal finish during a re-fit is much easier than scalding/repairing the finished wood stock during the repair of the flaw.

Ya fubar, ya fix it,, that's how ya learn @IanH,, or just pay $$$,, you choose.

I think @IanH is onto the cause. Recoil not being absorbed at the breech after being "shot in".

If that's a screw or even a bolt without adequate clearance that weak spot might have saved you from a cracked stock

Oh, and I have no ideas on fixing it other than replacing.

longcruise said:

a cracked stock

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Uhm, where is the cracked stock?

necchi said:

Uhm, where is the cracked stock?

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Go back and read sloooooowly.

IanH said:

Notice he didn't volunteer any services.

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Don’t encourage him.

Watching this closely. I haven't fired my .45 SMR yet and I'm wondering if I may have overlooked/done something which would cause the same situation. After all, if there's a mistake to be made, I'll sure enough make it.

necchi said:

Uhm, where is the cracked stock?

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You didn't see it?

DCAN said:

Watching this closely. I haven't fired my .45 SMR yet and I'm wondering if I may have overlooked/done something which would cause the same situation. After all, if there's a mistake to be made, I'll sure enough make it.

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I wouldn’t worry about it. I have 3 SMRs, one of which is still unfinished. I’ve had no problem with the other. It’s a minor obstacle to deal with in the long run.

DCAN said:

Watching this closely. I haven't fired my .45 SMR yet and I'm wondering if I may have overlooked/done something which would cause the same situation. After all, if there's a mistake to be made, I'll sure enough make it.

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Make sure you have good contact at the recoil surfaces. Prove it with transfer compound. If your screws don't plunk freely through the stock holes with the barrel knocked firmly to the rear by a mallet on the muzzle, relieve the holes with a chainsaw file until they do. Don't overtorque the screws trying to get the slots to line up all pretty and straight, adjust the countersink or turn a few thousandths off the underside of the head with the compound slide on your lathe instead. If that checks out don't worry about it and go have fun.

The original post, is about a fractured tang , at the bolt, and asking about a silver solder repair.
My advice was to weld it. And refinish the metal.
And somehow there is fractured stock information lost inside the topic?

Perhaps the overwhelmingly popular original poster could share that information in a different topic as discovery of the flaw within the described troubles so that those repairs can be taught to all.
Yet it comes down too common chain saw files, then "lathe" and thousands,,

Interesting subject here. I'm working one of these in .32 right now and just finished the barrel and tang last night. Using soot to mark everything I have solid contact on the rear of the barrel on both sides top to bottom but no contact at all at the rear of the tang behind the cross bolt. All three screws are lined up and go into the lock and trigger properly and the touch hole is perfect in the pan so taking it back more isn't an option.
Do believe at final assembly I'll use some epoxy putty on that tang (tang well-greased of course) to add that layer of extra of support.
Have been looking at those sharp corners on that delicate tang and wondering if that wouldn't be a potential fracture point if things weren't just right.

As in many threads on this forum several members either fail to read all the posts or fail to comprehend what is written.
Best to just ignore their advice as they are off in unrelated territory.

Back to the OP's question, I would just silver solder it and file it down to original dimensions, then look for any high spots in the wood when refitting the barrel and tang using Prussian blue or other layout type dye.

Yep, the best way is to weld it. Silver or TIG will be good.
Note that the silver is very easy to do, but it doesn't take any bluing or brown and this is something that could be seen, the TIG welding can be perfectly blued but is a bit more difficult to do...

I bet Jim will take care of it .

Yep. Definitely have Kibler put a new breach plug in. Then refit. It doesn’t look like you browned the barrel, so refinishing metal to match should be no problem.

Not saying this was the cause, but I’ve seen others have this problem because of improperly removing the barrel during inletting. Especially repeatedly. Thereby stressing the tang. Kibler warns about this in his videos. Flip the rifle upside down, hold the front of the barrel and stock, tap the top of the butt plate (that’s why it should be the first install) on a hard surface and the tang/rear of the barrel should pop loose. Do not try to pry the barrel out of the barrel channel from front to rear. Oh ya, first take out the screw (been there done that).

They probably will send a new one if it's bad. Put barrel in vise take out install new one