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My Kibler SMR Build Log

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Thanks. Not trying to be "authentic" in any way, shape or form, just functional and esthetic.

TOW doesn't provide dimensions for some styles.

They sure do look nice, though.

I think I'll order the Tennessee. Width is correct. And it's steel.
 
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Build Log Update

One More Thing

Possible template for toe plate:
kibler_119.png


(depending on whether the Tennessee works out, I suppose).
 
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Thanks. Not trying to be "authentic" in any way, shape or form, just functional and esthetic.

TOW doesn't provide dimensions for some styles.

They sure do look nice, though.

I think I'll order the Tennessee. Width is correct. And it's steel.
Print it from TOW catalog with your printer set to ‘do not scale to fit’ or something similar. It should print actual size.
 
Build Log Update

One More Thing

I elected to proceed with the hardware store bar stock to see what I could do with it while waiting for the TOW toe plate to arrive. I've got three feet of the stuff; I can experiment and screw up as much as I want. Regardless, either choice still involves the inletting issue and neither solves it.

First, I stuck the template on the bar stock:
kibler_120.png


Then used a hacksaw with a fresh blade to cut the major angles:
kibler_121.png


A Dremel grinder drum rounded out the corners:
kibler_122.png


Then it was time for some filing. This bar stock had some pretty deep milling marks. I got some good practice using draw filing techniques:
kibler_123.png

kibler_124.png


Then it was time for Mr. Dremel once again, this time with his sanding discs:
kibler_125.png


And finally some wet 'n dry sandpaper:
kibler_126.png


All other issues being resolvable, I think this is looking like something I can use.
 
Build Log Update

One More Thing

I actually think it doesn't look all that bad even without doing any inletting:
kibler_127.png

kibler_128.png


I'd just have to match and round the edges where they meet, drill a couple holes, and I'm done.
 
Build Log Update

One More Thing

I actually think it doesn't look all that bad even without doing any inletting:
View attachment 237962
View attachment 237963

I'd just have to match and round the edges where they meet, drill a couple holes, and I'm done.
Ok, I have to assume you are just baiting folks for a response… if not, well…

The Evil One, Mr. Numb, posted some photographs, but maybe with too much bling. Here is a photograph of a beat up GPR and its toe plate. Maybe it will inspire you. Idea is to inlet and mount it flush with the stock wood, not proud of the stock wood.
1689911228788.jpeg
 
...Here is a photograph of a beat up GPR and its toe plate. Maybe it will inspire you. Idea is to inlet and mount it flush with the stock wood, not proud of the stock wood....
Thanks for the pic. I like it. That makes it easier to see what should be done.

Thanks for taking the bait ... errr ... thanks for your response.
 
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Your test toe plate is MUCH too thick, they are wispy little things, almost like an afterthought.

I bought one from Track for my SMR, not close to being period correct but liked it, so there.

It looked much better polished and grayed but after I sold the rifle I deleted most of the finished pictures for some reason.

Before anyone has a cow; the Phillips heads screws are in for test fitting, filing and polishing, that way the slotted screws only go in once, no buggered up screw slots that way.

kinbler toe plate.JPG
 
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...

I bought one from Track for my SMR, not close to being period correct but liked it, so there.

It looked much better polished and grayed but after I sold the rifle I deleted most of the finished pictures for some reason.

...
I like it. I think it looks great.
 
Build Log Update

Stain Testing

One member suggested earlier in the thread to seal walnut before staining. I haven't done that to walnut before, so today I prepped another walnut sample. My leading choice is a 50/50 mix of General Finishes water-based dye stains (yellow & vintage cherry), so the sealer I'll test out is their "Seal-A-Cell" product. In the photo below, the sealed side is on the left:
k_129.JPG


Post-staining was just quick soak, wipe excess and flash dry; no other enhancement done.

IMO, the sealed side has better sheen, as you'd expect, but that's not a deciding factor, since that can be dealt with any number of ways post-staining. The sealed side has better uniformity of color and the unsealed side has better figuring contrast. I'm leaning toward no seal because I want the figuring to stand out, and the sheen and uniformity can both be dealt with later by other methods.
 
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