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I want to move on and experience flintlocks. Any suggestions as to a starter flintlock?

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You can talk about pyrodex on here but it doesn't work very well in a flintlock because it has a higher ignition temperature.
 
My favorite youtube video was always this short movie... which I watch about once a month for some odd reason....


 
And this one I watch a few times every year (which is dangerous to health and gun if the ball does not seat. So can't recommend doing it, I never will try. But it illustrates the speed of a smoothbore over a rifle in war.


 
I have been looking online for a good flinter. I would like to get the new Lyman/Pedersoli flint kit in 54 but they are hard to find. Pedersoli Frontier kits in 54 are also hard to find. I also have a taste for the TVM flint "in the white" kits but am still saving for the big day.
 
I think the most important aspect in acquiring the first flintlock is ignition reliability with particular attention to the lock quality, and geometry in relation to the barrel/flash hole. As has been mentioned, some homework before buying will prove beneficial.

this is good advise. my first flintlock had a frizzen issue which made the gun very frustrating to use. if no other conditions matter make sure the lock works and sparks properly.
ou
 
I have been looking online for a good flinter. I would like to get the new Lyman/Pedersoli flint kit in 54 but they are hard to find. Pedersoli Frontier kits in 54 are also hard to find. I also have a taste for the TVM flint "in the white" kits but am still saving for the big day.
If you go for the TVM flint "in-the-white" kit, upgrade to the Chambers lock or a deluxe Siler. Shooting a flint lock rifle is so much better with an excellent flint lock.
 
I've been using percussion revolvers, pistols and rifles and I am interested in trying flintlocks. Can anyone suggest a model of rifle or pistol that would be good to start with.
There are plenty more knowledgeable here than me, but from what I understand, for a starter flintlock, the Lyman Great Plains Rifle is hard to beat. They are made in the town next over from me, I've shot a few, and for 600-700 bucks I can say I am a fan...
 
Nice video on knapping the flint in the jaws of the lock. Before knapping, and in a demonstration video, I would have made a point of dumping the powder left in the pan. You did wipe the edge of the flint and the pan so you did get rid of the pan powder. By the way, I call the tool you used to rest on the flint a knapping awl. That edge can be accurately placed on the dull edge and lightly tapped to break off a tiny flake as you move the awl along the edge of the flint. The soft iron of the knapping awl will drive off a percussive flake and being soft, will not generate a spark to set off the powder charge in the rifle. I also make a point of turning the rifle over to dump any flakes of flint from the pan. Not so important when shooting alone, but can be an issue at a range with other shooters. I liked your ring of tools. Nicely period correct, but that hammer? It certainly is functional, but jarring when it suddenly appeared. I would have taken a look at the edge of the flint after knapping to see if the edge was even to the face of the frizzen. Just my procedure.
 
Hold on a sec, I have to pull up my flame proof breeches.....

Buy a kit, dont care if it is TOW, DGW, Jim Chambers, or Muzzle Loader Supply Co.
(where I got mine)
You can always spend a tad more that building and get one already made.

Ive found from 40 years of shooting this stuff that named branded rifles are 3rd world built production guns, and any of these kits are superior.

I did not say they were made in third world countries, I said they are produced like they were made in a 3rd world country.
 
Third time out with the GPR flintlock and it was great. Shot 4 times hitting the target at 25 yards, dry-patched twice, shot 3 more times. Hitting target and making a spark and SMOKE is great. Now I think it's only appropriate to give my GPR a buddy to hang around with, preferably a pistol of the flintlock variety. I would really like the Harper's Ferry pistol. Anyone have any ideas on a friend for my GPR?
 
Hold on a sec, I have to pull up my flame proof breeches.....

Buy a kit, dont care if it is TOW, DGW, Jim Chambers, or Muzzle Loader Supply Co.
(where I got mine)
You can always spend a tad more that building and get one already made.

Ive found from 40 years of shooting this stuff that named branded rifles are 3rd world built production guns, and any of these kits are superior.

I did not say they were made in third world countries, I said they are produced like they were made in a 3rd world country.
Thanks for your input, I would like to build but I have a tremor in my hands, 71, eyesight is OK, patience is a bit less than OK. Is there a kit for me that doesn't involve buying more tools or demands precision work? Thanks.
 
Yes, Jim Kibler's rifles. Can easily get it done in a weekend with a couple basic tools. Although there was a guy over on the Gun Builder's Bench that had something like 130 hours into one of them... For the life of me I cannot figure out how that could be.
 
Yes, Jim Kibler's rifles. Can easily get it done in a weekend with a couple basic tools. Although there was a guy over on the Gun Builder's Bench that had something like 130 hours into one of them... For the life of me I cannot figure out how that could be.
Maybe he took the time to do all the little things that separate the really good, well made rifles from the run of the mill "from the factory" ones that were just thrown together?
 
Read everything about flintlock lock geometry that you can find. I am tuning a traditions deer hunter now and if I had had the $ I would have bought a much better gun. Cheap locks almost always have to be tuned. Go without fear.
 

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