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wrong nipple?

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relicshunter

36 Cal.
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I am working to clean up a second hand Jukar 45 cal. Kentucky long rifle. in time for deer season.
I believe it has the wrong nipple. It is stainless steel and appears too long. The hammer is not hitting solidly enough to fire the caps reliably. It is 1 in 4 try's most of the time. I have filed it down a little, with some improvement. It looks like a 6mx1" is the right one ,but I could use a confirmation before ordering a new, correct one. I've got the loads worked out for accurate targeting with patch and ball, just need to get the right nipple before season. I can post a picture if needed.
Thank you ahead of time
Amanda
 
Does this gun have anything on it saying "made in Spain?" I'm pretty sure the gun you describe was made in Spain. Spanish guns use a 6x1mm nipple. A CVA nipple I'm sure would work, or a traditions. They both are 6x1mm's. Good luck getting that gun ready for deer season.
 
Relicshunter,
The metric nipple is probably correct, unless someone has changed it for a 1/4X28. #11 nipples should work just fine, double check what you have and make sure they aren't #10's. The other thing to try is dressing down the nipple cone so the nipple go on a little further.
Mark
 
relicshunter said:
The hammer is not hitting solidly enough to fire the caps reliably.
Those things are notorious for having the lock screws turned down too tight.
Loosen those screws a bit, the lock only needs to be held in the mortice, they don't hold the rifle together, they just hold the lock in place.

Through the years the wood in the lock mortice is compressed, if the two lock screws are too tight the leaf spring is pressed against the inside mortice and it binds, slowing down the lock time and hammer fall.
If the hammer doesn't have the speed, it won't hit the nipple/cap hard enough.

Those locks also benefit from full disassembly and polishing the bearing surfaces with a fine india stone or similar.
 
M6x1 is the correct thread size for that nipple. However, nipple cones vary in height, and that dimension is as important as any other in getting the right nipple. Unfortunately, cone heights are never specified by the sutlers so buying the right one is usually a manure shoot.

I've had pretty good luck with Treso's part number 11-50-05 in CVA rifles. Overall it's a tall nipple at 0.643", but most of that is thread length; the cone is only 0.208" tall from the bearing flat. Track of the Wolf sells that nipple under catalog number CVA-A.
 
Yes it is a Spanish Jukar.
After only a few shots the inside of the nipple clogs up. I just don't like anything about it, and I've tried filing it down already. The cap on the hammer lines up better but still not reliable.
I think I'll just start from scratch with a new nipple. I have cleaned and lightly oiled the hammer. I'll try loosing the two screws.
Thank you everyone for all the suggestions.
 
Most often the problem with caps not going off the first time is one of the cap not fitting down firmly on the nipple. Try taking the nipple out and chucking it into your drill (A lathe is better but most people don't have a lathe handy). Then use a fine file or india stone to dress the side down so that a cap fits snugly onto the nipple. Then tilt the file/stone and put a knife sharp edge onto the nipple. A flat top may have looked cool in the fifties, but flat top nipples don't set off caps well. I have reworked hundreds of soft nipples over the years and find it a simple problem to fix.
 
The fact that the nipple is clogging up after a few shots indicates to me that it is worn out, too much fouling entering from the combustion chamber. Time for a new nipple. Don't buy the ones from Traditions because they are a brittle, hard stainless steel prone to cracks.
 
I was at the old northwest a few years back when a fifteen year old girl had her Traditions rifle's nipple split. Her MOTHER then awarded her her camp name, By reference to the incident.Many people commented that it was her mother , not her older brother who gave her her camp name. :idunno: :idunno: :idunno:
 
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