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Would you put money into it or leave it alone?

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Clean it up & try to get a little Epoxy in the crack ,,wrap tight with electrical tape...flip the tape over ,sticky side up for the first 2 rounds,,,this will give you a sqeeze without any adhesive on the wood..leave it be for 2 days then clean excess epoxy , you'll probably have to clean up your screw holes. Any pinning or screwing should be done BEFORE epoxy.. Not a big job.. Hell, I'd do it for you if you paid the postage both ways,,,,I'm not lookin for a job ,just trying to demonstrate how easy it is. You never gave much Info on the rifle..might be 125-150 yrs of LIVED history there. If that Rifle is functional & safe, Clean it lovingly, fix it , and SHOOT it,,that Lived in look din't put itself there. Don't refinish it...Be Safe >>>>>Wally P.S. Check the fit and condition of the Breach plug. Your picture looks like plug threads need attention.. Wally
The only change I would suggest to this advice is to use Tite-bond or other premium wood glue, the stuff is amazing. Personally, I am not a fan of epoxy for this kind of work, not knocking others, just not my favorite.

GENTLY! spread the crack open a little, work some glue in the crack (sometimes the wife's sewing needles work for this) and then squeeze it together with whatever you have to work with. Have the method to squeeze BEFORE you start.
 
This was pretty much given to me. It’s an old .32 with a few issues but is a consistent firing rifle. Bore is dark but could be rebored. Stock is cracked. Would you put money into it or leave it alone?

T4

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That is a nice rifle. I would definitely try to repair the stock. I would rather have a piece of history with scars and repairs if still serviceable than a factory rifle!
 
If you plan on shooting it I'd fix the crack with either CYA or epoxy and then pin it with a thin brass screw under the tang down to the trigger plate. The screw will be hidden by the tang and the trigger plate.
 
Here is my William Moore that was broken completely through the wrist, my best friend who has since passed on repaired the wrist and resoldered the barrels together. I know where to look for the break but most have a hard time finding it.

This is what you can do if you take your time and are careful. This was fixed with Tite-bond wood glue.

W Moore1.jpg
 
Clean it up & try to get a little Epoxy in the crack ,,wrap tight with electrical tape...flip the tape over ,sticky side up for the first 2 rounds,,,this will give you a sqeeze without any adhesive on the wood..leave it be for 2 days then clean excess epoxy , you'll probably have to clean up your screw holes. Any pinning or screwing should be done BEFORE epoxy.. Not a big job.. Hell, I'd do it for you if you paid the postage both ways,,,,I'm not lookin for a job ,just trying to demonstrate how easy it is. You never gave much Info on the rifle..might be 125-150 yrs of LIVED history there. If that Rifle is functional & safe, Clean it lovingly, fix it , and SHOOT it,,that Lived in look din't put itself there. Don't refinish it...Be Safe >>>>>Wally P.S. Check the fit and condition of the Breach plug. Your picture looks like plug threads need attention.. Wally
I believe this is your answer. Beautiful gun.
 
This was pretty much given to me. It’s an old .32 with a few issues but is a consistent firing rifle. Bore is dark but could be rebored. Stock is cracked. Would you put money into it or leave it alone?

T4

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If the rifling is still strong than I would lead lap the bore, recrown and shoot it !
 
You can make a "lap" for the barrel out of lead pushed through, so it takes to the rifling and follows it then take some type of abrasive compound and smooth the pitting using that lap. I have used valve grinding compound. There are polishing compounds but I don't think it can be that good. Maybe. I would seek to get it so patched projectiles go in smoothly without abrading the patch. That stock crack is not fatal. If it ran out to the outside in that area it may be fatal but it does not and looks more like an interior crack that does not take away too much from the strength in the wrist area, which is most important. My fix for that would be a slow setting marine type or tabletop glazing epoxy with a dam on the other side (good tape that seals) so it cannot leak out. That stuff is like oil, it will soak in. You can put some walnut sanding dust in it to color it without thickening it. I believe that would be the end of that crack and look ok. I don't think it would cost much to bring that up to a better level to shoot. The part that cost is your time spent. I just looked at your other photos. Broken bridle, not a difficult thing to make. That breech plug is a worry by the way those threads look, I doubt it will clock correctly when re-installed. Proper fix there is to cut off the barrel, thread it, get a new breech plug, fashion it to match the old and a new drum as well. Easy ways out, JB weld, (Not good), braze up the threads on the old plug as well as those inside the barrel and re-thread. PITA. But very strong. Also the underlug for the pin would have to be relocated if the barrel is shortened. Since it is not a full stock rifle this is all could be done without wrecking the looks of that rifle and it looks good. Of course, You are the one having to know what you want to do, for me, I'd have some time into it with little money spent. I'd pay myself with fried squirrels.
 
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