Why some ingrediants in patch lube?

[pepperbelly]

I have read about people using Murphy's Oil Soap, Witch Hazel, alcohol, etc. in their lube mixes.
I will be using Ballistol and water. What do those other ingredients do and would it make sense for me to include one or more?

 

[nkbj]

My favorite is LOOB: Lanolin, Olive Oil and Beeswax.
It's my inconveniently messy dang near cure all. Way much slows down burn through on patches. Slows down leading with lubed bullets. Just dang near, but I will have to brew up another batch when it's gone.

 

[necchi]

BooHaa,Boohaa
Abra-ca-dabra
Boil-boil, toil an trouble,,
Cat sweat, toad snot, weasel piss an oil of naughga, Possum squeezins added at midnight on the eve of a full Blue moon,
Boohaa,boohaa,,,

 

[gearheart]

Forgot the "eye of newt" :rotf: :rotf:

 

[S.Kenton]

theres as many lube recipes are they're members on this forum...I would suggest trying as many of them as you care to and use which ones work well for you...for instance I use plain old olive oil, I came to use this from many trials and errors. My first patch lube was Bore Butter, second was crisco, third was a mixture of all sorts of stuff.. fourth was more of a cleaner..but worked well as a lube as well, it's a mixture of Murphys oil soap, alcohol and amonia, all equal parts. ALL of these worked for me.. but the best Ive found so far for ME is Olive oil...take it for what it's worth..

 

[nchawkeye]

There are literally thousands of patch lubes used, try them all and see what the rifle likes before forming an opinion...

Currently I use Stumpy's formula but for 25 years or so I used SnoSeal...

 

[nkbj]

Woo-bha-ha-ha-ha. :stir: Bring the jar labelled Abbie Lube All.

 

[Col. Batguano]

HAs anyone tried automatic transmission fluid? It works great for unsticking rusted bolts and nuts.

 

[S.Kenton]

There are literally thousands of patch lubes used, try them all and see what the rifle likes before forming an opinion...

Currently I use Stumpy's formula but for 25 years or so I used SnoSeal...

whats in Stumpys formula?

 

[S.Kenton]

I've been considering using tranny fluid as more of a preservitive...but not as a patch lube due to the petroleum based nature of it.

 

[George T.]

I think that it being petroleum based is against it especially if it's to be loaded quite a while before shooting as when hunting. Plain old crisco does a good job and it's cheap. Geo. T.

 

[ohio ramrod]

oil soap, alcohol, and witch hazel ( really just alochol and fragrance ) all will disolve black poowder fouling. Many people put them in their patch lubes to keep fouling soft. :idunno:

 

[pepperbelly]

Thanks. I wasn't wanting suggestions on what to put in. I was wondering if those ingredients had a purpose.

 

[Semisane]

Thanks. I wasn't wanting suggestions on what to put in. I was wondering if those ingredients had a purpose.

The purpose, my friend, it to make people feel like they're doing something. I doubt any of the exotic concoctions are any more effective than plain old olive oil, peanut oil, or vegetable oil. At least that's been my experience with the many milk/snot recipes. As for myself, all I use these days is Liquid Wrench.

Oh poop! Now I've done it. :stir: :grin:

 

[Stumpkiller]

There are literally thousands of patch lubes used, try them all and see what the rifle likes before forming an opinion...

Currently I use Stumpy's formula but for 25 years or so I used SnoSeal...

whats in Stumpys formula?

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/

I based my lube on: rust avoidance (if not protection), historically available components, ability to load 10 shots without need for wiping between shots (Seneca Run and Biathlon events . . . and enjoyment of shooting without a table and tacklebox of manure). If you don't like it, fine. I offer it up as something that I came up with after a lot of experimentation and test shooting. Free to good homes and muzzleloaders everywhere - but you have to mix it yourself.

I fly R/C and castor oil keeps engines lubed at hig temps (even jet engines) without breaking down. Beeswax prevents rust and is also a great lube at high temps, whichhazel improves smear of the oil and adhesion (vs. beading) on smooth surfaces, Murphy's Oil Soap is a surficant and makes clean-up easier and improves cleaning as loaded (vs. between shot wiping). Alcohol puts the castor oil in suspension (it is not water soluable).

Spit works, so use what you like. I have had good results hunting and shooting with my lubes. First shot is in the same group as the fifth shot. And when hunting you should need only the first shot. ;-)

 

[pepperbelly]

It sounds like I don't need to worry about leaving out something important.
I am going to try a dry patch- a 6 to 1 Ballistol to water mix and let the patches dry. I have a small aluminum bottle with a screw on top so the oil will not completely dry.
I will keep some cleaning patches wetter for wiping.

 

[necchi]

The biggest mistake most make when trying the dry lube patch is wringing the mix out too much.
When you wet the fabric, just gently remove the excess running the fabric between your fingers before laying it out to dry.
The fabric should still be pretty darn wet with the mix when it's layed for drying.

If it's squeezed out too much then the oil/lube is squeezed out to.

 

[pepperbelly]

Thanks necchi. I will remember to just gently wipe the mix from the patches and not squeeze.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Basically all these ingredients do is apply some form of lubricant for the ball while allowing the patch to compress while cleaning some fouling frm the bore. It really matter little if the lube is spit or some exotic blend of secret ingredients. Doe use ingredients tbat will mix uniformly.

ATF is synthetic sperm whale oil.

 

[nkbj]

These are from sighting in a .58 (with very narrow lands) while checking to see if the polishing of the bore I'd performed had been sufficient. The "LOOB" is a sticky paste and resists gasses trying to pass through the weave. Started off with olive oil and shifted to the thick stuff.



Reckon it needs a little more polish on the reamer marks.