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Which BP substitute?

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Paul, thank you. That makes it clear and easy to understand.
I have been loading smokeless for a long time, and it is difficult to think differently.
Thanks for the tip on FFFg too. I will try some as soon as I get some.

Jim
 
Rubicam-I had good luck with Pinnacle(3fg) as prime powder.It has to be ground up a little finer than 4fg Goex,and I did not own a flinter at this time,so all testing was done with custom guns.Everone was skeptical(me included),only one pan flash,the rest of the time no problems.Some said it was a little slower ignition,some shooters could not tell any difference.It did seem that pinnacle required a little more prime for good consistent ignition.This was using pinnacle(3fg) as main charge and prime.I now own flinters(very addictive)I shoot Swiss and use swiss NullB for prime,after NullB everything seems slow.Just my opinion.I like Pinnacle if I had to use it,I would.Respectfully Montanadan
 
rubincam said:
--------WHAT HAPPENED?--------to the typing in the last post?

That's a typing hangfire. All this talk about BP subs caused it. :shocked2: :rotf:
 
Good Morning Pepperbelly,

If all of you Texas boys would make an appearance at one of the three annual Texas Muzzle Loading Rifle Association shots, you find all of the Goex Black Powder you use, and at the best price around. In October the going price was $11.00 per pound.

The TMLRA Annual Fall Shoot is always a blanket shoot. Approximately 200 pounds of Goex and Swiss Black Powder was donated for prizes.

I managed to bring home 5 pounds. Think Rabbit03 took home even more

You do not have to be a member or participate in the shoot to buy any of the supplies, but if you go, you might should take your shooting gear. Once there, you just might get bitten by the bug, go into a fever, be unable to control yourself, end up on the firing line. You might even have fun.

If that should prove too embarassing to explain to die-hard noncompetiton friends or associates, you can always claim the fever (or the Devil) made you do it. You can even claim you were taken hostage by masked hombres of unknown nationality, who arrived by commercial aircraft and forced you to shoot or face death by the dreaded, "Bohueta Torture".

If you hang around for awhile, you might even get to know some of TMLRA folks who live in or close to your area and might be willing to help you out the next time you need to buy powder and get it delivered.

Our vendor has supplied us TMLRA people for over 30 years and will mail most supplies, but not powder or caps.

There might even be some of you that live in or near his neck of the woods.

There are advantages to being a member of a good shooting organization such as the TMLRA.

Best regards and good shooting,

John L. Hinnant

If you are not an NRA OR NMLRA Member, why not? I am carrying your load.

Politicians LIE!!! USA Freedoms DIE!!!!
 
John I'm in Ft.Worth. I would like to attend a meet sometime if my wife and kids give me a chance.
I am just getting into muzzleloading, and some say that with a TC Hawken I am just barely into it.
Jim
 
PB: In case you are still wondering, Yes, a volume load of FFFg will weigh slightly more than the same volume load of FFg powder. And, 4Fg powder will weigh more per same volume than 3Fg or 2Fg powder. That is a direct result of the powders' smaller granule size.

To compact your powder, just point your barrel vertically when you pour the powder into it. The length of the barrel will act like a drop tube does, and the powder will be firmly compacted in the breech. When loading FFg powder in flintlock, either use a drop or ' loading " tube inserted into the barrel to drop the powder down to the breech without touching the sides of the bore, or simply tip the dried barrel to one side and let the powder slide down the side of the barrel to the breech.

If you put an OP wad or filler over the powder, it will push the little bit of powder residue on the sides of the barrel down ahead of it for a consistent load. If you are not using an OP wad, or filler, then a couple of good bumps with the butt of your hand to the back of the barrel will usually settle 90% of the powder residue sticking to the side of the barrel as the result of static electricity.
 
Thanks Paul. Now I have another question. Why the need for a drop tube with a flintlock?
I am too new at this to have a set way to do things. I haven't even considered using a felt wad over the powder. Why would I need one, and how would I get it to stay straight across the bore when I seat it?


Jim
 
PB: Target shooters use every trick to get consistent powder charges. Some don't trust their cleaning methods to dry the land and grooves completely, and use the drop tube to avoid ANY powder sticking in the grooves at some wet spot.

Again, I think if they load an OP wad on top of the powder, the wad will scrape down any errant granules and add them to the main charge. But, this is one of those technidque debates that go on within the ranks of target shooters. I have used a chronograph to see what is the least complicated way to get consistent loads, and SDV, and it doesn't include using a drop tube in my flintlock rifle.

I have a percussion shotgun, right now, which is my ownly percussion gun. I use OP wads over the powder in my shotgun and never worry about velocities. I am going to chronograph my favorite loads( judged base on how they pattern) by putting the shot in a heavy paper tube closed at both ends. This " slug " will weigh whatever the shot charge weighs, but will stay together to go over the screen on my chronograph, without any danger of damaging the machine. It won't let me measure down range velocities of free flying shot, but MV is better than nothing at all. Lyman's Shotshell Reloading Manual and other reference materials in Dixie GW's catalogue, or in the articles by V.M. Starr and Bob Spenser on his " Black Powder Notebook " website, can be used to accurately estimate down range velocity, pellet energy, amount of drop of the shot at various yardage, and time of travel to various yardage, based on that MV.
 
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