wheellock Parts

[Leonredbeard]

If this works here are some pictures of the geared wheellock in progress.

 

Thanks volatpluvia,
Great pics! You doing this work yourself?

 

[Leonredbeard]

Claypipe,
Yes I am doing the work myself. Now I will admit to buying the gears. I have already modified them and must modify the larger one some more before being done. As in your private message, I can't wait either to see the finished project.
God bless.
volatpluvia

 

[Leonredbeard]

Atempt at lost photo

 

[Light Dragoon]

Wow, very cool! So are you going to put a tumbler system in/on the larger gear, or stick with the chain system to give it a lot of zip? Or do you have some completely different idea for a spring, rather than a flat spring?

Cheers,

Gordon

 

[Leonredbeard]

Gordon,
Thanks for the post. It is my intention to make a tumbler of sorts out of the large gear wheel. I have a custom mainspring on order that is much like a sporting wheellock mainspring. It will operate upside down to a regular wheellock because two gears wheels messing change the direction of the spin. This way I can have a sear that is just like a flinter. What I am discovering is that this lock will be almost equally as complicated as a chain driven model. I will post pictures as I continue to create the parts. This will likely be a dragged out process.
God bless.
volatpluvia

 

[Light Dragoon]

Volatpluvia;

Very interesting! Are you are going to go with a stirrup rig for the tumbler/mainspring connection? It would kinda-sorta be a "link" to the chain drive that way, PLUS (and more importantly) be a lot more flexible in how you arranged the spring/tumbler. The last thing you would want is the mainspring dropping off the tumbler!

I really look forward to seeing how you progress on this one, it's neat! :thumbsup:

Cheers!

Gordon

 

[Leonredbeard]

Gordon,
I thought thru the link idea for a while and I thought thru cutting a recess in the big gear wheel for the end of the main spring to ride in and apply pressure to. The mainspring I have designed and ordered commits me to cutting the gear wheel and making some way of stopping the spin before the end of the spring flies out of the recess. I am convinced I can make it work. We'll see. Hee Hee! (famous last words!) ::
God bless.
volatpluvia

 

[Light Dragoon]

Volatpluvia;

Well good luck on this one! I suppose that you could rig up a stop like a snaphaunce has for the cock or some thing like that to arrest the movement of the gear, OR like on many wheellocks that actually arrests the downward movement of the spring, which releases the pressure on the chain. It would keep your gear from having to be what stops, but then puts some extra stress on the spring, so who knows. Anyway, lots of nifty things for you to work out!

One nice thing though is that with the gear ratios, you ought to be able to get a LOT of spin off of that wheel with not a huge amount of movement from the spring!

Cheers,

Gordon

 

[Leonredbeard]

Okay, here is the dog all polished up, needing only the spring contacts trimmed to fit and the pivot hole drilled.

Here is the basically shaped top jaw with the dog. Obviously it needs final shaping and polishing.

Here is the relationship of the dog to the lock and wheel. this is intended to throw sparks into the bottom of the pan.

Here is the top jaw with the dog on the plate.

 

[Light Dragoon]

Volatpluvia:

Nice work, seems like you've been busy! So then, is the wheel geared to spin towards the pan, or away from it? I guess I'm confused...

Oh, BTW, I recently discovered that the late-model Dutch wheellocks also had the wheels entering the forward part of the pan rather than the center, as they discovered it was somewhat more efficient for dumping sparks into the pan. Kinda cool, that!

Cheers,

Gordon

 

[Leonredbeard]

Light Dragoon,
The wheel will spin into the pan, therefore hopefully will put sparks into the bottom of the pan. Isn't that amazing? I always thought that any idea I got would have already been thought of, and so it is. So far gears have already been used and now you tell me that the wheel was moved forward and up to do what I want to do. Oh well, great minds run in the same direction. Hee Hee! I hope to finish this project sometime this year.
God bless.
volatpluvia

 

[bezoar]

Have you figured out how your going to stop the spring from coming off the gear?

I had a small brain storm for you. Why not try a rachet system to hold the end of the spring in the gear when winding and that just falls out of the way when the wheel spins... think ratchet wrench here....

 

[Leonredbeard]

Bezoar,
Thanks for the idea, even though I am not sure what you mean. I probably have to think about it for a while. I haven't quite got it figured out yet. I think when I get my custom spring and begin experimenting with it I will be able to get something in place. Thanks for your concern.
God bless.
volatpluvia

 

[bezoar]

Sorry for confusing you with my idea. Basically my idea is a revolver working in reverse.

When i say reverse i mean the cylinder end with the ridges is turned, and those ridges engage the cylinder hand, in turn cocking the hammer and setting the sear/trigger for shooting.

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/patents/us/689/6896111/6896111.pdf

If you can please go to that link and look at the illustration on the first page. I am going to use it to demonstrate my idea to everyone here. This idea may create extra stress on the spring leading to early breakage but its just a theory at this time.

Parts list
20 - your mainspring
42 - the notch on mainspring that engages the gear hand
(the cylinder hand)
16 - the gear hand
32 - the spring that keeps gear hand in position to catch
on main spring notch
30 - the recess into which the gear hand falls into when
the gear is released by the sear.
110 - the main gear that engages the main spring


When the mechanism is wound, the gear (part 110) is to be rotated in the opposite direction of direction arrow 50A.

Winding in this direction allows the gear hand(part 16) to be pushed from its recess (part 30) by the hand spring (part 32) allowing it to become caught on the mainspring notch (part 42).

Once the hand is caught by the mainspring notch (part 42), further winding of the gear (part 110) will compress the main spring (part 20) and then engage the sear into the sear notch on the gear (part 110).

When the sear is tripped by the trigger, the gear (part 110) is now under the control of the main spring (part 20), which turns it in the direction of direction arrow 50A.

Once released the gear will rotate the rest of the gears and work the grooved wheel causing sparks to be created when the grooved wheel is in contact with a piece of pyrite or even flint.

As the gear turns, the gear hand (part 16) will not engage with the main spring notch (part 42) as the gear hand is rotating away from the direction of engagement.

Long winded i admit, but ill try to get get a diagram drawn up in cad tomorrow.
********************

In a future version you could try a coil spring in the japanese matchlock fashion for the mainspring.

 

[Leonredbeard]

bezoar,
Sorry, the link to patentsonline would not come up. I got only page cannot be found. I am extremely visual and a picture is excellent for my understanding. So I will be looking forward to your cad.
God bless.
volatpluvia

 

[bezoar]

oops my fault, forgot they create a new directory for every time someone looks at a patent. Sending the correct link for the patent http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6896111.html

youll just have to follow the link to the patent images and then the link to the pdf file.

 

[Leonredbeard]

Thanks, Bezoar,
I looked at it and believe I understand what the man was building. :master: But I don't need anything that complicated. :shocking: I have made the lock complicated enough already, Hee Hee! :shake: Anyway I think I have a solution. Perhaps today I could make a drawing and scan it and show you what I mean, but first I will describe it. See, the spring will have limited travel, because of the way I designed it. It will stop all by itself at the end of its travel. Now I might have a bolt positioned so that it can't go beyond its original relaxed shape, as that might break it. I would position the bolt so that it would be as close to the end of the free arm as possible to reduce the risk of breakage as much as possible. Then I postion the entire spring so that the free end cannot escape the notch in the gear. Of course, the notch must be cut, filed and polished just right so that this will work. :redthumb: Then the end of the spring stops the rotation of the gear. But that won't take much because the scratch wheel on the outside of the lock will always be scrathing/dragging on the pyrite, which is under pressure. :blah: It should work. ::
God bless.
volatpluvia

 

[Leonredbeard]

Okay, Here is the finished top jaw.

top jaw attached to dog

Dog and jaw holding pyrite!

Dog bolted to plate, pyrite laying on wheel.

 

[Leonredbeard]

Okay, Here is further update on the parts.
pan cover

toggle

Mounted

safetied

ready to fire

God bless.
volatpluvia